I hope this final blog post of my Astronomer in Beijing blog finds you well. Whether you’re partaking in post-Halloween celebrations, preparing a voting plan for the US elections (Please vote if you’re eligible and haven’t already, this election is vitally important and knowing where & when you can vote is very important), or just enjoying the start of November, I hope you’re all safe, happy, and healthy. I’m doing well here in Padova. Goldie and I have been moved into my new apartment in the city center for about a month now. It’s about double the size of what I lived in in Beijing and I have windows! Real actual windows (not skylights)! Goldie has been enjoying looking outside at birds and bugs (and maybe some outdoor cats that hangout on the balcony across the street) and I’m so glad she gets to bask in the sun. So far, I’m really enjoying living in Padova (a little of what I’m enjoying will be sprinkled into this blog post). Although this is my final blog post, I do want to emphasize points – 1) if you have any plans to visit Beijing (or really anywhere in China) and you need travel advice, please don’t hesitate to ask me & 2) if you’re planning to visit Italy, particularly Northern Italy or the Venice area (I’m about 30 minutes from Venice), please let me know! I’m hoping to be able to show more people around Padova than I got to show around Beijing. As I promised in my previous blog post, I wanted to do one final post reflecting on my time in Beijing and looking at things that I liked and things that I didn’t (or things I hope to improve on). But before I begin, I want to thank you all for reading this post and all of my previous posts. I really enjoyed constructing this blog and getting to share a bit of my life with all of you.
To start with, I want to emphasize that I really did enjoy my time in Beijing! While the China that I entered in August 2021 drastically changed during the nearly three years (I arrived in Shanghai on August 4, 2021 and left on June 22, 2024) that I was there (mostly do to COVID restrictions and the eventual collapse of COVID-Zero protocols), overall I think it was a good experience. To start off with, I think I need to say that moving is hard. I remember thinking that loading up all of my stuff into my car to move to Boston and then back to Saratoga (thanks Dad for driving that van, too!) was tough, but it’s really hard to navigate everything basically solo (thank you again to my cousin Dave for helping me get everything to the Detroit airport and my friend Richard for helping me get everything to the Beijing airport), especially with a cat in tow! It’s also really stressful, hard, and scary to find yourself in a foreign country where you don’t speak the language (and I’ve now done it twice) and basically alone. A lot of my friends in Beijing who worked at the embassy were amazed that the university’s don’t really do anything to help facilitate the process (yes, they helped get me a visa, but nothing in terms of actually moving stuff, finding places to stay – especially in Beijing, or packing things up). It’s hard to find communities and make friends. I’m glad I was able to do that in Beijing and that I’m starting to do it here in Padova, but even doing it for a second time is tough.
When I think about my time in China (which happens often, especially since Goldie represents my time in China and I’m so glad that I have Goldie – she will forever be my favorite China memory), I remember the highlights first and foremost.
Obviously, there was the grand-scale adventure of it all – I got to visit the Forbidden City, Great Wall of China, Old Summer Palace, New Summer Palace, Terra Cotta Warriors, the pandas, the Bund, and so much more. I’ve included some of my favorite pictures of sites below!
But I also think back mostly on the different communities that I was a part of. I really miss spending every Friday night celebrating Shabbat with Kehillat Beijing at Roberta & Ted’s home. I think I missed seven Shabbats over the course of the three years – though there were a few months when it was all on zoom. It was a warm and welcoming community and one where I made close friends (Miriam, Kevin, & Sam) and was also a nice little foreigner bubble (something I’ll discuss a bit later). I found a community literally upon my arrival to Beijing (thank you again to Roberta & Ted for letting me stay with them when I first arrived) and it made my time in Beijing that much more enjoyable. I’m still in the Kehillat Beijing Wechat group, so I get to see updates from the community and the different themes that Ted thinks up, but it’s not the same as being there in person. And it isn’t just the amazing meals, I also really miss the communal Liberal-style Jewish prayer that I got to co-lead. Although I’ve found a Jewish community here in Padova, it hasn’t been able to replace Kehillat Beijing in my heart. Don’t get me wrong, the traditional Italian synagogue, which dates back to the 1500s is amazing and beautiful, but the community, though welcoming, is far more Orthodox-style Judaism than what I’m accustomed to (for those of you not familiar with the different branches of Judaism, my preferred style includes far more communal singing). While I expected there to be no English (I am in Italy), it’s hard to follow along sometimes and since the community is small (we had ~ 60 people max at Yom Kippur – which included a nearly 11 hour day of prayer, feel free to message me about that if you’re interested in the differences between the Italian rituals and Ashkenazi Judaism), I haven’t found a group of friends yet. I’m still forever grateful for the amazing community that Roberta & Ted fostered in Beijing, but that just makes it harder to now be a visitor and not a member.
Outside of the Jewish community, one of the other communities that I was a part of was the Vegan community in Beijing. I loved doing the monthly cooking classes with Chef Chao (and I think many of you liked see photos), going to vegan markets, and hanging out at vegan events with my different friends from the Vegans of Beijing community (Andrea, Jennifer, Alex, Lionel, & Mariya).
Also, there were so many amazing Buddhist Vegetarian restaurants in Beijing (I haven’t been willing to try the Chinese food here because I just don’t have high expectations). I got to eat baozi, jiaozi, jianbing, and so many noodle, tofu, & mushroom dishes and have so many fun meals with friends! Here are a few of my favorites dishes!
While functionally being a vegan is significantly easier in Padova (the green V for Vegan is pretty prevalent in Italy, I’ve gone to a few vegan and vegetarian restaurants, eaten a ton of vegan gelato – nearly all sorbetto is dairy free and I’ve found other vegan flavors, too, and have access to way more vegan products in grocery stores – including some amazing artisanal vegan cheeses that I got last weekend), there isn’t that social aspect (at least that I’ve found). I am happy to report that there is a large Asian grocery store in Padova (much like the Western import stores I visited in Beijing), so I can get literally the same exact brands of many things I was getting in Beijing, which means I’ll continue my own Chinese cooking. However, now that I’m in Italy, I do hope to learn to make pasta, too!
The last community that I was a part of was obviously the Astrophysics community at Tsinghua. As I think you all know, this was my first postdoc and looking back, while I’m happy with what I accomplished, I do wish I’d been able to get more done. It’s hard to not look on the research side of things and feel a bit mixed. I really liked working on Project Radio, my study of the spectral index of bent AGNs with LOFAR, but that project has yet to be cited one year later and while I think it was interesting, it might have been a bit too niche. Additionally, although it’s now almost done (hopefully it will be sent to co-authors by the end of the month), Project Morphology has been a struggle. Getting scooped made the project really challenging to work on and it took me a while to figure out just how to frame the research in a way that made it feel relevant. Thankfully, thanks to some really useful feedback from one of my new supervisors here and one of my close collaborators, I think I have the framing device to make the paper stronger. Ultimately, I think I grew as a researcher in China, even if not everything went perfectly. Working with Zheng gave me a lot of freedom to pursue what science interested me and I think in having that freedom, I’ve realized the importance of asking questions and deciding early on what the attainable goals are so that I can effectively use my time. I’m hoping to use this technique to write shorter and hopefully more impactful papers in Padova. Also, I realized that while working from home can be good for some people, I really need a proper workspace if I’m going to do it regularly (speaking of, I really need to get a work table for my apartment in Padova – it’s the one thing it’s missing). Thankfully, I really like my new office, which is in a 14th Century castle (don’t worry, there’s internet and AC), so I usually work from the office. Also, as I think I’ve mentioned, one of the hardest things for me as a postdoc in Beijing was that because the Astronomy department was in the process of moving buildings (they finally moved into the new building in August 2024), the postdocs during all but the first two months of my time in Beijing, were in a separate building. As such, I never really felt like I was part of the department. Every time I came to the main building, I felt like I was just stopping by. I had to schlep my entire backpack and coat and while there were a few events to try to keep us connected, most days, I felt like I was on my own. I’m happy to say that this is not the case here in Padova. While the building is a bit complicated to navigate, we’re all in one of two buildings (the other is right next door to the castle) and we have a number of large all department events, including Astro Pizza (who says no to free pizza in Italy). So, it’s nice to feel a bit more connected to the department.
Beyond my science, I obviously miss my amazing cohort of foreign postdocs that I hung out with all of the time (Paulo, Richard, Tom, Pablo, Daniele, & Josh – and also David & Chris, too)! I miss meeting up at vegetarian restaurants (thank you all for always being willing to accommodate my eating, hanging out, and going to so many tourist attractions around the city. It was really amazing to have such a wonderful cohort. I’m hoping as people either visit Europe or move closer to Italy, that I’ll get to see some of them soon (I did get to see Pablo, Daniele, and David for the EAS conference here in Padova in July, which was awesome). I am so glad that everyone, myself included, was able to go to Richard’s wedding and give us one last hurrah as a group. Although the cohort of foreign postdocs isn’t as tight-knit here in Padova as in Beijing, I do like the other postdocs I’ve met so far and I have visited some really cool sites here in Padova!
As I said, I really did have an amazing China experience, but it wasn’t without its hardships. As I mentioned above, moving, especially across an ocean is really hard and doing it during a COVID lockdown didn’t help. The 14 days in quarantine in Shanghai were definitely rough and something I hope to never experience again. Additionally, the 12 days when my hutong locked down (yes, I know this pails in comparison to what Jesse experienced) were really difficult. While I know some found a zen calmness in being locked into a room, I look back and can’t remember doing anything other than sitting in my apartment, watching tv, and maybe trying to do a workout. I’m so glad that for the quasi-lockdowns in late 2022, that I had Goldie to keep me company. It’s hard to not let that color my time in China. As someone who is a bit of a hypochondriac, living in post-COVID-Zero China really didn’t help my mental health. Basically all of 2022 was impacted by COVID restrictions. I did hundreds of COVID tests and each was stressful given the fear of getting sent to a COVID “hospital.” That and the way seemingly any COVID cases in China were blamed on westerners made it difficult to feel welcome at times. Additionally, it was really tough to be in the same country as Jesse and not get to see him for ~ 18 months of my time here. Furthermore, I couldn’t see my parents for ~ 2 years because of the expense and difficulty flying into and out of China (though I’m so glad they were finally able to come last May). Having the COVID-related travel restrictions really put a damper on my first year and a half in China, but I’m glad that ultimately, I did get to visit Shanghai, Xi’an, and Chengdu. Though, one of my major regrets is that I didn’t get to visit other cities while I was there.
Beyond that, there are definitely lots of things that I enjoyed and a few things that I won’t miss. Some of the things that I didn’t realize I’d miss was digital pay, but not for the reason you think. I was lamenting to Jesse that it was so nice to not have to clean out my wallet of paper receipts every few days. While using a credit card in the rest of the world is easy, I did get used to not having to deal with receipts for the most part. Additionally, I do miss how easy it was to order groceries. While I love actual grocery shopping and going to the local fruit & vegetable market here in Padova, it was nice to be able to order things spur of the moment if I ran out. Also, cabs are so much cheaper in China! I’ve only take a cab here to take Goldie to the vet, but the cost was ~ 5x what I paid in China. Thankfully, Padova is super walkable (one of my favorite things about the city) and there is good public transportation, but it was nice to have cabs as an affordable option in China. Obviously, I miss (and still worry about) all of the street cats. I loved seeing them wander around the hutongs. While I’ve seen what appear to be a few outdoor cats here in Padova, I’m also kind of glad that there isn’t such a street cat problem here in Italy.
And of course, I miss all of the fun statues and anime/comics/manga figurines that I used to see everywhere! I have seen a lot of anime paraphernalia hear (Lupin III is unsurprisingly super popular – it’s an anime by Monkey Punch featuring the descendant of the gentleman thief Arsene Lupin), but it’s usually in comic stores, book stores, or the occasional gift shop, not just randomly around Padova – though there is lots of cool graffiti.
I also really miss the neighborhood and the Shichahai Lakes/Drum Tower/Bell Tower that I lived around. While my apartment wasn’t perfect, it was my home and I miss running around the lakes and strolling to my apartment.
Additionally, I miss the foreign enclaves that I was a part of. I think (and this is my opinion), but because foreigners represent such a small fraction of the Chinese population (and because most are ethnically not Chinese), there is a lot of inherent stress in being a foreigner in China and I think a lot of my friends from the Jewish community, the Vegan community, and at Tsinghua were just looking for spaces where they felt they belonged. Whenever I got on the subway, it seemed like everyone was staring at me. While I stand out in Italy a bit (I’m 6ft 2in with a man bun and a red beard, it happens), I like the anonymity. Not everyone knows I’m a foreigner when I’m walking to work. I don’t have random people come and take selfies with me just because I’m here. However, the flip side is that it’s been a lot harder to find a foreigner community in Padova. I still haven’t met any Americans who live here (and it’s been almost 5 months) and I miss the support system that this provided in China.
Obviously, China isn’t perfect. I definitely don’t miss having to try to find a proper western (non-squat) toilet when I need to use the bathroom. I also really like that pedestrian right of way is a thing in Europe and the US (basically motor bikes go at anytime in China, even when you have a walk sign). While I miss all of the amazing vegan Chinese food, I don’t miss random mystery meat that seems to hide everywhere (pork floss is a real thing). It was also really frustrating to need to use VPN connections just to access my gmail, or more frustratingly, to download some of the publicly available Astronomy data I needed for my research. Additionally, I don’t miss all of the visa issues and paperwork nightmares that I had while I was in China (especially having to register with the police any time I went anywhere). While Zheng and Limei were able to help for the most part, there was just so much paperwork. Unfortunately, Italy has its fair share of paperwork and things move much slower here. As an aside, if you’re wondering why I arrived in late June, but didn’t move into my own apartment until late September, it isn’t just because the housing market in Padova is tough, it’s because I didn’t get my Italian work visa until late August. If you know anyone who needs an Italian work visa, it’s really tough to go through the NYC Italian consulate (I was number 700 on the waitlist, but thankfully my supervisor wrote an e-mail in Italian and sped things up). I definitely leave China with a newfound respect, understanding, and empathy for what its like to leave your home country and enter a new environment. I know how hard logistically, mentally, and physically it can be to uproot your life and enter a new foreign environment where you stand out all the time. It was eye opening to experience life as a minority and I can see how exhausting and stressful it can be. I hope I can bring these experiences to help me be a better mentor and ally in the future.
Ultimately, although my China experience is over, I’m glad that I spent the last three years in Beijing. I was able to make some amazing friends, see some amazing places, try so many amazing foods, and do some pretty cool science. While I don’t know what my future holds in terms of China, I’m glad I’ll have the memories and will look back on it all fondly. But for now, I’m an Astronomer in Padova and I’m enjoying that adventure. While I won’t be having a blog this time around because the amount of time it takes really started eating into my work productivity and my goal is to be as productive as I can as a scientist, I’m glad I have this blog as a memory of my time in Beijing. Again, please let me know if any of you plan to visit the greater Venice area. And of course, thank you all for going on this journey of being an Astronomer in Beijing with me. Hearing from all of you was so nice, especially during the rougher times and as always, please feel free to write or comment below. I hope you enjoyed seeing Beijing through my eyes.
I hope you’re doing well and that this post finds you enjoying the summer and not having to deal with a crazy heat wave. As you should know from my last post, I’m not writing this from Beijing. As of June 22, I no longer live in Beijing and I’m no longer a postdoc at Tsinghua University. Instead, I’m writing to you from Padova, Italy (also known by its English name, Padua), where I’ll be a postdoc at the Istituto Nazionale di Astrofisica – Osservatoria Astronomica di Padova (or the National Institute of Astronomy – Padova Astronomical Observatory). For those of you who are wondering, Padova is in the northern part of Italy as is ~ 30 – 45 minutes from Venice. However, as this is my Astronomer in Beijing blog, I wanted to let you all know how I spent my last month in Beijing (just a heads up, this isn’t the last post, I’ll have one more post later in the summer/early fall where I reflect on my time in China, but because of the time commitment required for the blog, I’m not planning to continue doing the blog in Italy).
Since you’re all obviously reading this after I left, I will start by saying that Goldie and I made it safely to Italy! For those of you who’ve never traveled by plane with an animal, it isn’t the most fun for the pet (Goldie was not a happy camper). For starters, June 22 was an extremely long day. I woke up pretty early because I needed to finish up packing my backpack (and then realized that I was going to need to put things in my spare duffle bag – thanks Jesse for the duffle bag!). I also wanted to walk around Shichahai and see the Drum Tower & Bell Tower one last time. Additionally, I was still waiting for Roundabout to come collect some of the items that I couldn’t bring with me and that I was donating (thank you so much to my friend Kevin for helping me coordinate that and get all of the stuff out of my apartment).
Since I was moving with five suitcases (you can see some of them behind Kevin in the above photo), a carry-on duffle bag, a backpack, and Goldie, I’m super grateful that my friend Richard was able to come with me to the airport! I have no idea how I would’ve managed without him, especially getting the suitcases into the minivan that I had arranged to take me to the airport and then getting those suitcases into the airport – we needed two very full carts. Thankfully, because I have Silver Sky Blue status with Air France (a few trips to Europe from China will do that!), I was able to skip the lines, which was great as Goldie much preferred when her carrier was on solid ground and not slung around my shoulders. Once all of my bags were checked (and four were overweight, so that cost a lot of money!), the ticket agent had to check Goldie’s paperwork. Thankfully that was all in order (there was a bit of a concern earlier in the week that there might be an issue as the Beijing customs office did not include my address or phone number on the forms, but nobody seemed to mind). After that, we said goodbye to Richard and then Goldie and I had to go through customs and security. Thankfully, I didn’t need to put Goldie through the X-ray machine, but she didn’t want to leave the carrier, so I had to drag her out. Once I got to our gate, I covered her carrier in a blanket and that seemed to calm her down a bit (although she was definitely hyperventilating). Thankfully on the 12.5 hour flight from Beijing to Paris, there was nobody sitting next to me, so I could put Goldie on the seat and so I could pet her to try to comfort her a bit. I flew Premium Economy and while it was a bit pricy, on such a long flight, it was definitely worth it! About 6 hours in, Goldie started to lick herself, which I took as a good sign, but at points, she got very antsy about being in the carrier and tried to push her way out. When we arrived in Paris, we had to go through customs to enter Europe. Although they didn’t need to see any paperwork, I did have to put Goldie through the X-ray machine, which I wasn’t thrilled about. We had a three hour layover in Paris, so just long enough that Goldie got used to not flying for us to then take the 1.5 hour flight to Venice. Unfortunately, on that flight, I did have someone sitting next to me, so Goldie had to go under the seat. Once we arrived in Venice, it took a surprisingly short amount of time to get my luggage. Since I had so many suitcases, my friend Daniele had helped me to book a van, which was super helpful (especially since I had 2 luggage carts again)! We then drove to my AirBnB and finally Goldie was able to leave her carrier. However, Goldie was definitely rattled. I had gotten some cat litter and food that I had sent to the AirBnB, so I knew she’d have something to eat, but it took her about 6 hours to calm down. However, nearly 4 weeks later, she seems to be doing quite well. The only thing that seems to have impacted her is that she is much less interested in eating her usual dry food (it’s the exact same brand of Royal Canin food she ate in China). I found two wet foods that she seems to love (though I don’t love the smell), but I’m hoping she’ll go back to eating a bit more dry food soon (I took her to the vet last week just to check that everything is ok and will be going back to do some bloodwork in August). In terms of the entire travel experience, everything really did go quite smoothly. I have to say how night and day the differences are in the airport in Beijing vs in Paris. In Paris, the international terminals (even at 6am) are bustling with people, shops, and food, whereas you can still feel the after effects of the pandemic in Beijing as there was only one duty free shop and a Starbucks open. Beijing Capital Airport definitely didn’t feel nearly as bustling as Charles de Gaulle Airport.
In terms of my new set up here, I’m really enjoying getting to explore Padova! It’s so different from Beijing (obviously), and I like how walkable the city is. It’s nice that everything is relatively close and I’m struck by how old things look. Don’t get me wrong, a lot of Beijing is historic and old, but because the architecture is so different from what I grew up with, it doesn’t hit that way. Also pretty much wherever I went in Beijing, there were modern roads, highways, and subways, while here, there are a lot of cobblestone roads where you can forget for a second what year it is. For those of you who’ve never been to Padova, it has a bit like Bath in the UK (if you’ve been there) – lots of old architecture and history. I’m definitely enjoying trying gelato (lots of vegan flavors) and other Italian food (it’s easy to find vegetarian options, but a bit harder for vegan options – although the grocery stores are quite easy).
Also, although not about Beijing, I do want to say that I had a wonderful time at my cousin Robbie’s wedding to his wife Stefanie just outside of Boston, MA! While it was exhausting to travel from Padova to Boston only a week after moving to Padova, it was so great to see Jesse, my parents, and so many of my Aunts, Uncles, and cousins that I hadn’t seen in years. Although I hope my next trip back to the US will be a bit longer than four days, it was wonderful to see everyone!
With all that said, I think this is going to be a very long post because I did a lot in my last month in Beijing and definitely got quite sentimental when it came to including photos, so I hope you all enjoy reading and seeing all about it!
Vegans of Beijing May Cooking Class
So this is going back a bit, but since my last post focused on my family’s visit to China, I didn’t want to leave out an amazing Vegans of Beijing cooking class with Chef Chao that I went to in May, the week before my parents came to China! This time we made two different delicious variations of Zhajiang mian, Beijing’s famous noodle dish. Although we didn’t make the noodles from scratch this time (Vegans of Beijing did a biang biang noodles class this July that I was super bummed to miss), we did make all of the sauces from scratch and a crazy wide array of toppings! As you can see from the photos below, the two sets of noodles were pretty different. The first was made using a delicious eggplant sauce and the second was more of the classic Zhajiang noodle (I’ve had it a few times, including with my friend Lu a few weeks later – see the More Vegan food section), which we veganized using mushrooms. However, despite not making the noodles from scratch, the prep work took a ton of time! As you can see, we had to chop tons of mushrooms, eggplant, potatoes, and peppers! If you look closely, you’ll also see some delicious edamame, which we seasoned with chili for a delicious topping to the noodles.
Once we finished chopping everything, we got down to cooking! We starting by boiling the bean sprouts and spinach to prepare them to be toppers for the noodles. After that, we moved on to our mushroom sauce. We started by sauteing all of the mushrooms (we used king oyster and shiitake) before adding our sauce, which was a mixture of sweet flower sauce, gan huang jiang (a spicy bean sauce), and soy sauce. It was a delicious sauce and could definitely be put on anything! After that, we moved onto the eggplant sauce, where we needed to saute the eggplant, potatoes, and peppers separately before we added them back to the wok to finish them off! One important thing to note is that unlike Italian pastas, where you’ll finish the noodles in the sauce, you don’t do that for these noodles, the sauce and toppings are ladled on top. Also, the noodles are definitely not al dente! Chinese noodles should be served much softer than typical Italian fare.
And now, the piece de resistance, two amazing bowls of noodles! Each of them were so good! I think my only complaint is that for those of you who’ve never been to China, noodle dishes are a much bigger serving than in Italy, so it was a lot of food and I was very full afterwards!
This was such a fun cooking class! Now that I’m not in Beijing, it’ll be interesting to see how easy (or hard) it is to get different Chinese ingredients. There are a few Asian markets in Padova, so I need to go check them out soon, but hopefully between them and Amazon, I’ll be able to make these dishes soon!
Dragon Boat Festival – Races & Exploring Tongzhou!
The weekend after my family visited was the Dragon Boat festival. For those of you who are unfamiliar, Dragon Boat festival is a national holiday that commemorates Qu Yuan, a beloved Chinese minister from the Warring States period, and people celebrate by eating zongzi (sticky rice dumplings – see the Vegan food section) and racing dragon boats! Unlike the Head of the Charles regatta in Boston, the people racing in Beijing aren’t professionals (or even elite college and high school rowers). From what I could see, the teams were collections of amateurs ranging from adults to younger children. Also, the races aren’t super long, only ~ 100 – 200 m (at least in Beijing), so it’s a sprint to the finish (I did see some pretty amazing videos online of some very different dragon boat races along narrow rivers in other parts of China – almost like kayak racing in the Olympics). To watch the races, I had to trek out to Tongzhou, which is ~ 1 hour from my apartment. After getting the recommendation from another friend in Kehillat Beijing, Kevin and I decided to check it out! As you can see below, we had some pretty great seats and saw some fun races! However, the most excitement came from a crash! Don’t worry, nobody was injured and everyone had life jackets on, but we saw a boat turn 90 degrees and accidentally hit another boat! The other races were also fun to watch, too!
In what can only be pure luck, as Kevin and I were setting up a spot to watch the races, we ran into our friends Dan & Melanie from Kehillat Beijing (which I think is still only the 5th time I ran into people by accident in Beijing)! After watching some races, we all decided to explore a bit more of Tongzhou and explore the area surrounding the Tongzhou Canal! You can see one temple that we stopped by, as well as the pretty spectacular Randeng Pagoda, which dates back to the 6th Century! All in all, it was a really fun day! I’m glad I got to experience the full Dragon Boat Festival since I’d missed out my first two years in Beijing.
A Visit to Kings Joy – The Three Michelin Star Vegetarian Restaurant in Beijing
One of the things that’s been on my Beijing bucket list since arriving has been to experience the amazing Three Michelin starred vegetarian restaurant, Kings Joy. To my knowledge, I’d never been to any restaurant that had received a Michelin star before and Kings Joy was the first Vegetarian restaurant with three Michelin stars. It also is right by the Lama Temple, so very close to where I used to live. However, I had been holding out for a special occasion because Kings Joy only does dinner sets and the least expensive option is ~ 1000rmb (or $137). However, with my time coming to an end, I felt like now was as good a time as there was going to be. Since I knew Kevin also wanted to try Kings Joy, we both went and had a pretty spectacular meal. They specialize in small plates and this is definitely fine dining, so quite different from the Chinese food I usually eat (though you could see a lot of Chinese influence). We also got to keep post a copy of the set menu we chose and the cloth napkin (I chose red) as a souvenir. Before I dive into the meal, I want to highlight that the ambiance of the restaurant is amazing. There was someone playing the harp the entire time and the large windows allow for a ton of natural light (which created a cool atmosphere, especially as there was a thunderstorm later in the evening) and all of the wait staff was immaculately dressed and our waiter spoke fluent English. In terms of the meal, we started with citrus juice and honey dew, which were then followed up by crudite with a variety of dipping sauces (with the exception of the crudite and the desserts, all of the other dishes were individually served). We then had a trio of small bites, featuring an avocado roll, a vinegar mushroom, and grilled sticky rice. After that, we were served a delicious Shangri-La matsutake mushroom broth served in a tea pot. This was then followed up by a plate of hawthorn jelly (hawthorn is a small Chinese crab apple) with mountain yam rolls. We then got an energizing fruit enzyme (kind of like a kombucha) and then a pastry with sauteed gorgon fruit (which is a species of water lily) with sweet peas and cashews. This was followed by a pan fried bamboo with asparagus tips and a clay pot wild mushroom stew. We were then served a passion fruit vinegar drink as well as a Nepal truffle with quinoa tofu. After this, we got a plate of morel mushroom with seasonal greens and then a peach resin mushroom with braised rice. We then were served a cold noodle with sesame sauce as the final entree. For dessert, we got a few different pastries, including an imperial osmanthus pudding, almond mung bean cakes, a red date rice roll with red bean filling, mountain oolong tea, a black sesame cake, and a rose crepe cake. The entire meal really was amazing and the mushroom dishes were my favorite! They even had us write a comment card at the end of the meal (though I doubt we’re famous enough to make their guest booklet – I took some photos of people who I recognized). All in all, despite the price, it was well worth it. While I love the more traditional Chinese vegetarian food, I’m really glad I got to experience this!
Vegans of Beijing June Cooking Class – My Final Cooking Class
The last weekend before I left Beijing, I had one final Vegans of Beijing cooking class with Chef Chao. As I’ve said before, I’m so glad that I was able to go to so many cooking classes during my time in Beijing! Chef Chao is an amazing teacher – if any of you ever go to Beijing and are interested in taking a class, let me know! – and I’ve loved being able to create some lasting food memories and understand Chinese culture a bit better through food! Also, I’m really grateful to my friend Mariya for organizing the classes and for making sure that the June class was the 15th, so that I could attend one final class!
As you can see from the very full table below, we went all out and made three pretty incredibly dishes in June!
The first dish we made was a cold noodle, but pretty unlike any of the cold noodles I had. This had a full noodle both (which we chilled using ice!). We started by chopping up a pretty amazing array of veggies including onion, tomato, cucumber, apple, ginger, and garlic, which we then combined with rice vinegar and apple cider vinegar, soy sauce, and water before finishing them off with vegan kimchi and fresh noodles! It was a super delicious and really refreshing noodle dish – although the chopping took a long time!
We then followed it up with the classic cold vinegar mushroom dish. I’ve had this dish a few times (most memorably at the banquet at the Guo Shuojing conference – this was one of two dishes Jesse and I could eat of 15+ dishes). It’s a mix of wood ear mushrooms (also called black fungus) that have been rehydrated and combined with carrots and onion and some delicious fried peanuts! Again, we were chopping for days! But it was so worth it! To make the vinegar sauce, we combined chili powder, garlic, sesame seeds, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, and Chinese black vinegar. It was a super delicious dish and very refreshing in the Beijing heat!
Our last dish was another favorite of mine, tofu! Specifically, we made fried tofu with a chili sauce! For the sauce, we started by chopping garlic, ginger (the staples of almost all of the dishes we’ve made – and real staples of Chinese cooking in general), a spicy green chili, scallions, salt, sugar, soy sauce, black vinegar, and a bit of water. We then cut the tofu into small blocks and covered them in corn starch for frying! While I’m still a bit terrified by frying in hot oil, I was able to conquer that fear and fry up some delicious tofu (though if I make it here, I’ll probably try to either bake them or pan fry them). The corn starch made the tofu deliciously crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside and it was so delicious with the chili sauce!
As you can see, the classes weren’t just fun for the cooking (here are some photos with me, Chef Chao, and Mariya, too), but also featured a wonderful group meal with all of us that was always fun. We had a nice mix of people new to Beijing, new to vegetarianism/veganism, and just new to the cooking classes (we even had someone who I introduced to Kehillat Beijing and who came to the Shabbat the following week)! I’ll really miss not only the social aspect, but also the cooking aspect, but I’ll do my best to try to recreate that in Italy!
A Visit to an Amazing Cat Cafe!
After my last cooking class, I was walking back to my apartment and since it was really hot, was looking for a place to cool off about halfway through my walk and I passed this amazing cat cafe. I’d seen it before walking back from the cooking classes, but this time I decided to stop in and I’m so glad that I did! While I love Goldie, it was really cool to be surrounded by all of these cats. Unlike the other cat cafe that I went to with Richard in May, this was very much not a normal cafe, but more of a cat paradise, where customers were encouraged to play and pet the cats, but also just be quiet and sit with them (whereas the other was more of a typical cafe, but featuring cats). You can see that the cats looked so different from Goldie. Some of them were huge! I think they must’ve been Maine Coon cats! They were all super friendly and very affectionate towards humans (especially when being fed). It was really relaxing and such a fun way to spend an afternoon!
Vegans of Beijing Japanese Buffet at the Tokyo Lounge!
The next day, I had one last Vegans of Beijing event. This time, my friend Andrea (that’s me with Andrea and another friend, Alex, who is another Vegans of Beijing organizer) organized an amazing Japanese buffet at the Tokyo Lounge! I’d been wanting to try the vegan menu at the Tokyo Lounge, so I’m so glad that this was able to be my final Vegans of Beijing event! We had about 30+ people and the food and ambiance was pretty amazing! The menu included udon noodles, fried rice, mapo tofu, mushroom ajillo, fried asparagus, fried bean sprouts, kitsune bean curd, pumpkin croquettes, spring rolls, pickles, lotus root pickles, tempura, gnocchi, hot pot, jiaozi, and jooma vegan yogurt! It was all super delicious! I haven’t had a ton of Japanese food while I was in China, and this was all really delicious and it was so fun to see so many people and have one last fun Vegan even before I left! Between the cooking class and this dinner, it was like a big vegan sendoff for me!
A Quick Visit to the Deshengmen Arrow Tower!
One of the things that was very near my apartment that I’d passed hundreds of times, but never gone to was the Deshengmen Arrow Tower. Unfortunately for me, I wasn’t actually able to visit the tower because it was closed for much of May and June for some kind of construction, but because it was so close to my apartment, I really wanted to walk by and see it up close. For those of you wondering, the Arrow Tower is exactly what it sounds like, it is a remnant of the ramparts that were part of the second ring wall that once surrounded Beijing – yes, the highways that mark the rings (there are currently 5) – specifically the first and second, used to be actual ring towers, some parts of which still exist (including Beijing’s Ancient Observatory) – although this was rebuild built in 1951. These walls and this arrow tower specifically, would have been used to defend the city from invaders coming from the north. You can see that the tower not only includes part of the wall, but a towering structure filled with multiple vantage points to shoot arrows. Although I couldn’t go in the tower, it was still cool to walk right next to the wall and see it in all of its glory.
Life at Tsinghua – An Astronomy Update
As is probably not a surprise to anyone, the last month at Tsinghua wasn’t filled with as much actual Astronomy as I’d like. As I mentioned in previous blogs, I was required to submit a postdoctoral thesis to conclude my contract at Tsinghua (for those who are wondering, I’m not entirely sure what the consequences would have been if I didn’t do that, but I don’t really care to find out). As such, much of the time before and immediately after my family’s visit to China was spent compiling the thesis document. Since only one of the two papers is completed, I had to spend more time than I wanted to finishing up a draft of Project Morphology (though that will be useful as I write the actual paper this month). The most frustrating part was that the style file for the thesis (Astronomy papers are typically written in LaTeX) required me to reformat the tables from my previous paper and those tables were really long! All in all, the final version of the postdoctoral thesis ended up being ~ 130 pages (thankfully only the title and abstract had to be translated into Mandarin – thank you Lu for your help with that!). I think the most frustrating this is that nobody (and I mean nobody) will ever read that thesis. At least with my PhD dissertation, there is the illusion that someone might read it, but that is not the case for this.
Outside of the postdoctoral thesis, I didn’t have much time to work on actual science since I needed to pack up my apartment, figure out where to donate stuff that I wasn’t giving away (thank you Kevin for the suggestion of Roundabout and for helping me with the actual donation) – I also donated some cat stuff to a local animal shelter (thank you Hongming for helping me with that), and fill out a lot of paperwork for Italy! While my scientific output wasn’t super high, I did get to coordinate a lunch talk given by my friend and colleague Lu Shen, who was visiting her family in Beijing! Lu’s an expert on high-z galaxies and using JWST and she gave a great talk! It was also fitting to see her on campus as she came and visited me about a month into my time in Beijing.
Outside of that, the majority of the rest of my time was spent making sure that everything was in order for me to leave China. I had a lot of forms to fill out for Tsinghua (thankfully, Limei was very helpful in filling these out) and I also needed to make sure that I was going to be able to transfer my savings outside of China. To do that, I approached this from multiple perspectives. I made sure that my Chinese debit card was set up so that it could be used at ATMs in Europe (though only ones that accept Union Pay – I have yet to find one of those). Additionally, I withdrew ~ $500 USD in euros (~ 450 euros) from my Chinese account (you can do this from any Chinese account and I figured having cash would be useful). Outside of that, I was able to transfer most of my savings to my US account (thank you Ted for the help!).
Outside of the bureaucracy, I did get to have a very nice “Special Coffee” hour to celebrate my time at Tsinghua. You can see the cake below! We had a pretty strong attendance from the department and I even gave a speech! I tried to thank everyone I could think of (hopefully I didn’t miss anyone). Also, the students from my research group gave me a nice gift! And you can see some last photos of my office as well as some photos with some of my office mates (Hongming, Jianan, and Siwei) as well as with Limei.
As I was getting a bit sentimental knowing that I only had a few more days left in Beijing, but also to be on Tsinghua’s campus, so I wanted to take lots of photos of the campus, especially given how pretty the campus is. I hope you all enjoying seeing Tsinghua University through my eyes one last time.
Jewish Life in Beijing
As you all know, Kehillat Beijing was one of the most important things during my time in Beijing! It was my second home and I remain eternally grateful for being a part of the community that Roberta & Ted fostered and getting to impart my own Jewish identity on the communtiy. As such, I was really glad that I had three wonderful final Shabbats in Beijing, even if Fridays became a bit bittersweet as a countdown for when I was leaving. However, when I was picking flights, I made sure to pick a Saturday flight so that I would be able to go to one final Shabbat! But before we get to that, we had an amazing Dragon Boat Shabbat in the beginning of June! As you can see from the dishes and the names, Ted went all out making some amazing “dragon” themed dishes (that cucumber is amazing!). I also made some delicious chocolate tahini cookies for Shabbat!
My penultimate Shabbat was Pride Shabbat (as well as a Birthday celebration for Roberta)! This was also my friend Sam’s last Shabbat (though he’ll be in Hong Kong next year and will be back to visit Beijing far more frequently than me), so we co-led the service. This was also a special week for me as it was the 20th Anniversary on the Jewish calendar of Jesse and my B’nei Mitzvah (we had the portion Naso). Since we have a community led D’var torah each week, I took the opportunity to re-read Naso, which I don’t think I’d done since my Bar Mitzvah. While I don’t have any insights to share, it was fun to reread it and note a lot of the things that I didn’t remember at all (I only remembered about the decorations of the tabernacle and dolphin skin). As always, Ted really outdid himself again with an amazing Shabbat spread that was perfectly themed! This week, I pitched in with some delicious sea salt chocolate chip cookies (using the Lunch Room’s Recipe – if you’re from Ann Arbor or have visited, you know what I’m talking about). This was also my final Shabbat with Roberta. Unfortunately she had to be in Shanghai the next week, but I made sure to make sure she knew how thankful I am for the community and all she did for me while I was in Beijing.
Lastly, my final Shabbat at Kehillat Beijing (at least until I find a way to come back and visit) was the Summer Solstice Shabbat (Ted asked if I could think of any Astro-food puns – I thought sun chips and sunchokes!). I had a lot of friends who came to make sure to say goodbye to me (both at this Shabbat and the last three Shabbats), which made it a wonderful sendoff. It was also pretty emotional since I knew, at least by the end of the night that I had less than 24 hours left in China. It was really so wonderful to cap off my China adventure with one final Shabbat at Kehillat Beijing (I even got an shoutout on the weeks flyer). It was a wonderful service that I co-led with Kevin and Ted again really outdid himself with such a wonderful Shabbat dinner. And as I’d done the last few weeks, I made some of my favorite chocolate brownie cookies to share with everyone!
I don’t think I can say it enough that I cannot imagine my time in Beijing without Roberta & Ted and Kehillat Beijing and the community they created. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Kehillat Beijing was my second home in Beijing and I’m so glad that I could be part of such a wonderful community and do my part to help the community thrive. Since I’m still on WeChat with everyone, I’ve definitely been a bit blue when I see the Shabbat announcements since I know I won’t be able to join. I will miss seeing all of the creativity that Ted puts into all of the meals and getting to try all of the wonderful food! But, I also know that I will forever cherish my time at Kehillat Beijing and that given how many people travel to Europe, hopefully it won’t be too long before I run into some KB friends in Padova. As a thank you to Roberta & Ted, I wanted to do something that was definitely from me, so I made for them a drawing representing our “Cosmic Motzi”, where we have everyone connected (hand on shoulder) when we say the blessing over the Challah. I did my best to bring that to life and I hope you all (and everyone at Kehillat Beijing) enjoys it – I know Roberta, Ted, and everyone who was at Shabbat really liked it (I’ve included it in the China Drawings section below)!
Exploring Gulou – The Last Few Walks Around Shichahai
As I think you know, Gulou is the area that I lived and gets its name from the Drum Tower. Although I’ve posted lots of photos of the towers and the surrounding area in previous blogs, it just didn’t feel right not highlighting and looking back on the vibrant area that I lived in and got to walk around on a daily basis. I’ll start with the Drum Tower, Bell Tower, and the surrounding areas. While not all of these are taken in my last few days, some represent my final hours in Beijing (both of the Drum Tower, Bell Tower and Shichahai) and are places that I felt a special attachment to and wanted to say goodbye to.
Similarly, I had to highlight the Shichahai lakes (Qianhai, Houhai, and Xihai) for being just a beautiful place to walk around and a great place to go running (I still haven’t found as great a location in Padova – although the 90+ degree weather hasn’t led me to look too hard). Although Padova has a few lovely rivers, it just isn’t the same as these amazing lakes.
And of course, you can’t enjoy Shichahai without the Shichahai Dragon! I’m still amazed that the lantern dragon is still up, but every time I saw it at night, I just can’t imagine the lakes without it. Since next year is the year of the snake, hopefully they’ll make a lantern snake and someone will share pictures of that lantern snake at the lakes for me to marvel at!
Lastly, I wanted to include a few photo memories of Qianmachang Hutong, the hutong that I lived in for nearly three years, my apartment, and even the grocery stores that I used to go to. While my apartment wasn’t perfect (especially when it came to getting packages, not leaking during rainstorms, and having natural sunlight), it was a great location to live in and I’ll miss seeing all of the neighborhood cats near my door (I think Goldie misses them too, though she likes looking out the windows in our AirBnB). I still don’t know how my neighbors managed to park their cars in that narrow hutong street!
Shichahai at Night in the Summer!
As I said before, I really loved living by Shichahai and getting to run around the lakes and enjoy their splendor. Because I knew how magical the Shichahai Dragon looked at night, I wanted to make sure that I saw it one more time. However, I was surprised by just how lively the lakes were (even compared to when I went to the lakes with my family a month ago). It really felt like one big party (all of the karaoke bars and their neon lights really help with that). It was definitely a lot of fun! And everything looks really cool lit up! Especially the dragon and the butterflies!
And of course, I needed to highlight the Shichahai Dragon! Still my favorite lantern display in Beijing! I’m so glad that people were able to really celebrate Lunar New Year this year and that this was the result! It really enhances the entire ambiance of the lakes and transports you outside of the typical Beijing hustle and bustle.
A Stroll Through Wangjing Park
If you remember the earliest blog posts from Beijing when I was staying at Roberta & Ted’s home, I went running a lot in Wangjing Park (and even saw some miniature horses that they use to mow the grass), which is right near their home. Before one of the Shabbats in June, I made sure to get there early so that I could walk around the park one last time (a lot of the other sentimental last times were done when I got to visit all of the sites with my parents, though, as you’ve seen, there’s been a lot of sentimentality in this post). It’s still super pretty and I hope you enjoy the photos!
Lots & Lots of Vegan Food!
Not too surprisingly, in my last month in Beijing, I went out to eat a lot (I wanted to get a few last meals with lots of friends). It was really nice to be able to say goodbye to so many friends and have lots of fun and delicious meals!
Right after my family left, I had a lovely meal with my supervisor Zheng at Yue Family Kitchen. While there weren’t a ton of vegetarian options, the pastries, beans, bok choy, and watermelon (not pictured) were great and it was really great to sit down with Zheng and discuss some potential science ideas and what I’ll be working on in the future.
While Lu was visiting Tsinghua, I was able to get lunch with her at Tianchun Miaoxiang (I went there a lot in the last month, since so many final meals were with collections of Tsinghua friends!). We got cantaloupe juice, stir fried cauliflower, Zhajiang noodles, and spicy vegetarian mock fish! It was all delicious! And it was fun to get the noodles after learning how to make them! It was also really nice to get to see Lu in person a few times this month as so many of our meetings over the last three years have been entirely on zoom!
I also had an amazing vegan feast at Xian Lao Man with my friends Andrea & Casey from Vegans of Beijing! When I was in Shanghai, my friend Alex had organized a Vegan discovery dinner at Xian Lao Man, which is a non-vegetarian restaurant, with the goal of showing all of us what options were available at typical Chinese restaurants. As none of us were able to go, Andrea decided to organize our own! We got a delicious cold sesame eggplant, sesame cabbage, vinegar spinach & peanuts (which we actually made in my first cooking class), sauteed hot peppers, sword beans (my absolute favorite), dumplings, and fried corn starch chips! It was a delicious meal (thankfully Andrea’s Mandarin is much better than mine and she could verify that everything was vegan)! We also topped it off with gelato for dessert! I got pineapple & blood orange!
That same weekend, I met up with Daniele and David for a delicious meal at Yebozhai! Unlike when I went with my parents, we got to have the full menu. So, we got sour plum soup, Beijing style eggplant, crispy mushroom balls, seitan strips in a sweet sauce, spicy seitan with mushrooms and bamboo, baozi, and vegetable pancakes! And we topped it off with gelato (I got strawberry and mango-key lime)! It was a lot of fun to just hang out and eat good food and we walked back to my apartment afterward so that Daniele and David could raid my apartment (mostly for clothes hangers and snacks).
As I mentioned when I was talking about Dragon Boat festival, Kevin and I ran into our friends Dan and Melanie at the races and ended up spending the day with them exploring Tongzhou! After walking around, we got a delicious meal at a Vegan restaurant in Tongzhou called (in English) Bear Hugs the Earth Vegan Space – which is an amazing name! We got a delicious meal featuring both Western and Chinese food. We got orange juice, an avocado salad, a sweet & spicy tofu, sauteed greens, a tofu & cauliflower bowl, and a veggie burger (which we cut into 4 pieces)!
Before Miriam left to spend the summer in the US, I met up with her and her husband James for a delicious Italian lunch at Annies, which is a Beijing Italian institution, especially when it comes to Western-style restaurants! It was lovely to catch up with them, hear about their summer plans and them getting a car – that’s a whole lot harder in Beijing than in the US, and to see Miriam again before I go! Miriam’s been one of my closest friends in Beijing and also been super helpful with my lack of Mandarin – including, at least a few times, calling delivery drivers for me so that I could get them to come back and drop off packages since I wasn’t home when they initially came. This included the week before I left when my final suitcase arrived – I originally thought four, not five, suitcases would be enough. I am super appreciative of both her help and friendship. We got a house salad, grilled vegetables, orange-pomelo juice, bruschetta, spicy pasta, and some biscotti for dessert. Also, although I didn’t get it, I had to take a picture of the “Saratoga Cooler” on the menu! You don’t hear much mention of Saratoga in Beijing and I’ve never heard of this mocktail – although according to Google, it may pre-date the Shirley Temple, so if anyone knows the story and if it is connected to my hometown, please let me know!
During my last week in Beijing, I had a few more farewell meals to see me off. On Monday, Richard, Daniele, Josh, David, and I went to Tianchun Miaoxiang for a lovely farewell meal (unfortunately Pablo was already in Spain – don’t worry, I’ve already seen him here in Italy since he, Daniele, and David were here for the EAS meeting and Tom wasn’t able to make it, but we did get lunch on Friday). It was really fantastic to just chat and hang out, hear how Richard is enjoying married life, and all be together one more time. Oh, and the food was delicious! We got passion fruit juice, spicy Sichuan mock meat with veggies, a tofu skin dry hot pot, tofu skin rolls, spicy mock meat, flame tofu, and delicious sauteed mushrooms. It was a fantastic. And to beat the heat (it was REALLY hot in Beijing my last week), we got gelato and I got passion waxberry gelato (waxberry is also called Chinese bayberry)!
On Thursday, I had a farewell lunch with Kevin (although I also saw him at Shabbat on Friday and to help with donating various things from my apartment on Saturday) at Toast by the Orchid for a delicious Israeli meal. Although we chat all the time at Shabbat, it was nice to hear about the end of his semester, his summer plans and for me to tell him what I’ll be up to in Padova. I got a passion fruit soda, muhammara, a falafel & hummus platter, and capped it off with a bake shop chocolate chip cookie.
On Friday, I had one final farewell meal with Richard and Tom at Tianchun Miaoxiang. It was great to catch up with Tom and see both him and Richard before I go (I hadn’t seen Tom since RIchard’s wedding). Since both expect to be back in the UK at various points in the near future, hopefully either I’ll go visit Jesse and them or they’ll swing by Italy! We had a delicious meal featuring passion fruit juice, fried lotus root, eggplant & chickpeas, spicy Sichuan mock fish, and karameshi tofu! It was all delicious and a fitting final Chinese meal for my entire time in Beijing! I’m so glad that between my family’s visits and all of these goodbye meals, I was able to enjoy so much amazing Chinese vegetarian food in my final months in Beijing!
Although I didn’t eat out again before leaving China, I knew that getting food at the airport might be tricky, so I wanted to bring something to enjoy that would travel well. Baozi were the perfect choice! I got both eggplant and leafy green veggie baozi from Wutai Yun! They were delicious and they travelled really well!
Although I ate out a fair amount, I was also trying to empty out my fridge and pantry (I really tried to throw out as little as possible and gave stuff to Richard, Kevin, Daniele, David, Andrea, and Ted!). In my last month in China, I made a delicious peanut butter & guochujang lentil curry and a guochujang and peanut butter mushroom sauce to serve with homemade seitan. On the sweet side, I also did a lot of baking for Shabbat (and for my last group meeting – I made chocolate brownie cookies). I made jam squares, chocolate tahini cookies, chocolate brownie cookies, and chocolate chip cookies. Additionally, I enjoyed a few different vegan zongzi (the traditional sticky rice dumplings eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival) from Tianchun Miaoxiang. For those of your who haven’t had them, zongzi aren’t super sweet, but rather a very dense rice ball with some kind of nuts, berries, or paste in the middle and though they aren’t anything like a western pastry, they’re still quite good. I also couldn’t not get a few more sugar covered strawberries during my last few walks around Shichahai (they are my favorite!)!!
China Drawings
As I mentioned in the Jewish life in Beijing section, I wanted to give a gift to Roberta & Ted as a thank you for the friendship, generosity, hospitality, and kindness while I was in Beijing. It only seemed fitting for me to do some kind of drawing. While it took a while to come up with an idea, I finally settled on a representation of our weekly “Cosmic Motzi” where everyone is touching someone who is touching the challah as we say the blessing over the challah. Although I went for a more realistic looking Roberta & Ted, I didn’t want anyone else to be a direct representation of people in the community since I didn’t want someone to feel left out and photo-realism is hard! I hope you like this drawing! It took a lot of time, but I’m really happy with the end result!
Although on a much smaller scale, I did do a few other drawings that I wanted to share with you all. Although only the Goku – my tribute to Akira Toriyama – is done, I wanted to share some of the other sketches that I’m still working on with you all, too! Enjoy!
Goldie!!!
Unsurprisingly, this was a big month for Goldie. While she really enjoyed meeting my parents, seeing Jesse again, and exploring all of the suitcases that appeared in my apartment, I think she could tell that something was happening when stuff started disappearing (either because it was getting packed or it was getting donated). However, despite that, she remains super cut and loving and definitely wanted to be with me at all times (especially when I was packing). Here you can see her lounging around the couch, in my bedroom, and even trying to get Richard’s attention (this was right before we were going to head to the airport).
Despite all of the changes in the apartment, she still loved being able to burrow under all of her favorite blankets. I feel really bad that they weren’t able to come with us (they were just too big). Despite that, she still loves to burrow in the AirBnB and I hope that once I have my own apartment, I’ll be able to get some nice soft blankets that she likes.
Also, and I felt this was pretty special, Goldie even got to say goodbye to the hutong cats in our neighborhood before we left. Not only did I see all of the cats stop by my apartment, but we even had one last skylight visitor! I know she always liked to get their attention and let them know that this was her territory, but this time, it felt a bit special and a bit like a way to say goodbye to Goldie from all of her “friends”.
As I mentioned earlier, the move was quite the ordeal for Goldie. Even before the plane ride, I had to take Goldie to the Beijing Tongzhou Customs Office (about an hour from my apartment in a cab) to get her exit paperwork. To take a cat out of China, it’s treated as if it was a valuable good. She had to get all of her vaccinations & rabies shots certified by the Chinese government and then be weighed. While she hated being in the carrier, we were able to get all of the paperwork done, despite nobody in the office being willing to attempt to communicate with me in English when I arrived (I know translation apps are a pain, but I cannot be the first foreigner who’s shown up there). The second photo is from the airport. You can see Goldie is not a happy camper! I’m glad she was with me the entire time and happy to report she’s doing well now, but moving across continents is tough for a cat who’s spent nearly 1.5 years in a 2 room apartment. Thankfully she’s loving the AirBnB with its large windows and spacious interior!
The Aftermath of a Storm!
While I was in Shanghai, Beijing was ravaged by an ~ 30 minute crazy wind and rain storm! I know that seems short, but the it was incredibly violent and there was a lot of damage in that time. Thankfully, my apartment was fine, but as you can see from the photos below, a lot of Tsinghua’s campus (as well as the area near the front of Qianmachang hutong) was pretty badly impacted with tons of trees down. And to top it all off, when Kevin and I were at Kings Joy, there was another freak 30 minute storm that did even more damage! It’s pretty scary that all of this damage happened in so little time!
Exploring Beijing
During all of my time running around Beijing and seeing different friends, I still saw lots of other pretty things that I wanted to share with you. Despite the extreme heat in Beijing (90 – 100 degree weather), there were still a few very pretty flowers! Most of these are from Tsinghua’s campus, but a few are from Qianmachang Hutong and other areas in Beijing!
As I get a bit sentimental, one of my favorite things in Beijing are all of the ornate door handles and lion sculptures that are spread throughout the hutongs (and other parts of Beijing). I took lots of pictures of them, so I hope you enjoy them!
And beyond all of that, I also saw lots of fun signs and statues that I had to share with you!
And there were also some cool architectural buildings and landmarks that I wanted to highlight, too!
As I’ve shown a lot here, I really miss the creativity of the bikes (and the bike compartments – those are used for deliveries in China). Although there are a ton of bikes in Padova, I haven’t seen nearly the creativity when it comes to decorating bikes, or really any kind of decoration. I hope you enjoy seeing them from Beijing!
Animals of Beijing
Although Goldie remains my favorite cat, I did see lots of other cats and dogs during my last month in Beijing (outside of the cat cafe I already showed you). You can see the usual neighborhood cats, who I gave lots of food and water to in May and June – I hope someone else is giving them some extra treats now. I left a big bowl of food for them when I left that they seemed to enjoy and were scarfing down. Most interestingly, you can see a cat on a leash and another cat in a little hat! I was a bit taken back by both of them, but they seemed to know what to do. And of course, I got to spend a lot of time with my favorite puppies in Beijing, Mimi & Honey at Shabbat! I really miss seeing them begging for food and lounging around on Friday nights. I even saw a few birds this month too (who stood still long enough to take a photo), including a tiny bird that Josh saved from attack by larger birds.
What am I Reading/Watching?
As it’s been quite a while since my last blog post, I have read and watched a fair amount. On the reading front, I finally finished Artemis by Andy Weir. It’s far more hard science fiction than The Martian, but its also a really great book and I definitely enjoyed it! The characters were quite interesting and I loved how he made life on the moon feel totally dis-similar to life on Earth. Also, I finished the 9th and final volume of Kazu Kibuishi’s Amulet graphic novel. This is an all-ages series about a family transported to another world and the fight for survival, featuring magic, giant robots, and so much more. It’s a fantastic series as a whole and Kibuishi really sticks the landing! I highly recommend it.
On the tv front, I finished a number of shows. I finished Jeopardy Masters on ABC, which as a big Jeopardy fan was fantastic, especially since I can’t stream the daily episodes in Italy (I couldn’t in China, either). I also finished the most recent season of Top Chef, which is always fun, even if I never got terribly invested in any of the chefs this season. I also finished Dark Matter on Apple TV+, which was fantastic. It’s is a sci-fi show based on the novel of the same name about a Physics professor (played by Joel Edgerton) who is abducted by an alternate version of himself and is flung to a parallel world and his journey home to his wife (played excellently by Jennifer Connelly) and son. I definitely recommend it! I also finished the 2nd season of Bosch: Legacy, which was fantastic! I’ve loved the Bosch universe from day 1 and this is filled with tons of twists and turns with the various cases and courtroom drama. I also really like how they’ve elevated Bosch’s daughter from a supporting role into a fully-fledged adult cop lead character. Lastly (in terms of non-anime), I finished Bodies on Netflix. Based on the Vertigo comic book mini-series by Si Spencer, Tula Lotay, Phil Winslade, Megan Hetrick, and Dean Ormstrom that came out in 2015, it’s a really fantastic murder mystery that spans 4 distinct timelines (one in 1890, one in 1941, one in 2023, and one in 2053). They weave together the parallel narratives excellently and it’s just a really fantastic show! On the anime front, I finished the 3rd season of Blue Exorcist, which tells the tale of the son of Satan as he works to be an exorcist in Japan. It’s really great, with a lot of crazy characters and this season really upped the ante on the drama! I finished elDLIVE, which is an anime about alien space cops on Earth. This is another crazy sci-fi anime and while they didn’t get to adapt the final arcs of the manga, was still a lot of fun! I also finished Zom 100: Bucket List of the Dead, which is an anime about an ordinary Japanese office worker who’s life is turned upside down when the zombie apocalypse breaks out. The characters have a ton of heart and the show is super fun and zany! I finished Onimusha on Netflix, an anime about Miyamoto Musashi (the real life peorson) in which he is thrust into a battle fighting Japanese demons and ghosts from his past. I’m a big fan of Musashi’s story (particularly Takehiko Inoue’s manga adaptation Vagabond) and this felt like its supernatural cousin, which made for a great background. This was another great anime. Lastly, I watched season 2 of My Adventures with Superman! This is a very anime-inspired DC superhero show and for my money one of the best new animated superhero shows in a while. If you’re a fan of My Hero Academia or just looking to get your Superman fix before James Gunn’s Superman movie next summer, I highly recommend it!
I’ve alsohad the Olympics on in the background the last few days and while my Italian is not at the level where I can follow the commentary, its cool to see what is airing here and see a look at some of the more obscure sports – I’ve seen judo, fencing, and kayaking along with swimming and tennis – Vamos Rafa!
Also, with three international flights in the last month (Beijing to Paris, Paris to Boston, Boston to Paris), I watched a lot of movies, too! On my flight from Beijing to Paris, between sleeping a bit and petting Goldie, I watched Eddie the Eagle, The Holdovers, and 42. While Eddie the Eagle and 42 were fun sports movies, The Holdovers is a great movie. The characters felt very real and very raw. Its a great film and I definitely recommend it. On my flight to Boston, I watched Killers of the Flower Moon and Wonka. I thought Wonka was a fun, albeit ridiculous, movie. I did not care for Killers of the Flower Moon. I found it to be far too long, move at a snails pace, and also be super problematic and racist – basically none of the non-white characters have any real agency. Given Martin Scorsese’s diatribes against comic book movies, it’s nice to know he can make his own version of the Snyder cut. On the way back to Paris, I watched American Fiction, Game Changers, and Fargo. This was a much better movie selection. American Fiction is fantastic and I highly recommend it. It definitely felt like a movie for today given its identity politics and deft use of identity politics. Game Changers is a documentary about game shows in the US that was narrated by the late Alex Trebek. As a big game show fan, this was a fun watch! Lastly, although I’ve enjoyed the Fargo tv series, I’d never seen the movie and I really liked it! It definitely had the same vibe as the show.
East Meets West
As I did throughout my time in Beijing, while exploring this month, I was always on the hunt for fun semblances of the west! This month, it was a lot cartoons (Lilo & Stitch, Winnie the Pooh, Alvin & the Chipmunks, Toy Story, classic Mickey Mouse, and Tom & Jerrfy), but also a but of classical music, NBA, hipsters, and McDonalds! Enjoy!
Anime & Comics
And of course, no Astronomy in Beijing blog post would be complete without all of the comics, anime, and manga paraphernalia that I saw in my last month in Beijing! I really miss stumbling on all of the fun bike stickers and random anime figurine displays (although I did buy my fair share, so once I have my own apartment, I can get about setting those up). In case you’re wondering, I have seen some anime and comics paraphernalia in Padova, but mostly at bookstores and comic book stores, not random grocery stores and convenience stores! In my last month, I saw a lot of Dragon Ball Z, Gundam, Pokemon One Piece, DC, Marvel, Studio Ghibli, Doraemon, Naruto, and so much more. I’m still always on the lookout, so hopefully my explorations of Padova will yield some more fun manga, anime, and comic book finds, too!
If you’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading my penultimate installment of the Astronomer in Beijing blog – I know this one was a long one. I really hope you all enjoyed hearing a bit about my move to Padova and seeing all that I was up to in Beijing during my final month in China! It was really a great nearly three years in China (I arrived on August 4, 2021) and while I’ll reflect more on my time in a final blog post coming later this summer/in the early fall, I’m so glad that I could share all of my experiences with you! As always, if you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please feel free to reach out either directly or by commenting below! It would be wonderful to hear from you! I hope you all have a wonderful summer and enjoy the Olympics!
Welcome back to my Astronomer in Beijing blog! I hope you’re all doing well and enjoying either the start to summer, the end of the school year, or some combination of the two. For all of the fathers reading this, including my own Dad, I hope you’re having a Happy Father’s Day! Here in Beijing, we just had Dragon Boat Festival, so I was able to check out some races, even as I pack up and get ready to move to Italy this coming Saturday. As the title of this post goes, this will be a bit of a different blog post since it will focus on my family’s visit (and definitely a long one – we did a lot of sightseeing). However, I will talk about what I was up to in my last month in China in next month’s post (in case any of you are wondering, this will be the last post I write in Beijing, but I do plan to have at least two more posts about my time in China). I’ll start by saying that it was an amazing trip and so wonderful to see my family. Jesse and my parents arrived on Wednesday, May 22 and were here until Monday, June 3. We saw so many sights in Beijing & Shanghai and I can’t wait to tell you about it (also, for structural purposes, I’ll include food photos on each day since we went out to eat for most meals since my apartment isn’t really big enough for all of us to eat in)! Also, a big thank you for the photos from Jesse, my Mom, and my Dad. While most of these photos are mine, not all of them are, so thank you!
May 22 – My Family Arrives and We Visit the Lama Temple!
On Wednesday around noon, my parents and Jesse finally made it to my hutong apartment (because Jesse was with them and I live over an hour from the Airport, it was easier to have them meet me at my apartment)! Although their cab driver got a bit lost in the maze of my hutong, it was so wonderful to be surrounded by family! Goldie was also very excited to meet new people! While she spent most of the first afternoon burrowed under the covers, my Mom was able to snuggle with her and Goldie seemed to really like her! They also got to meet some of my local hutong cats & dogs, too! After getting everyone popsicles to cool off (Beijing has been in a heat wave, so it’s been really warm), I wanted to make sure that we did something fun during the day, but also make sure that everyone didn’t just pass out from jet lag since we had a very packed schedule in Beijing! So we ventured out into the hutongs on the way to lunch and then the Lama Temple!
Since everyone was really hungry, we went to have a delicious lunch at Yebozai, a vegetarian restaurant near the Lama Temple (aka Yonghegong). Since the restaurant is only approximately 30 minutes from my apartment, my parents got to see a bit of Beijing’s famous hutong apartments and get a taste of Beijing! Because we had a late lunch, the menu was limited at Yebozai, but that didn’t prevent the meal from being amazing! We got kaofu (traditional spongy seitan – one of the dishes my Mom really wanted to try), an assortment of Chinese mushrooms (which reminded my Mom of mushrooms on toast), crispy tofu skin rolls, vegetable baozi (another dish my Mom really wanted to try), and traditional sour plum soup (a juice drink). It was all quite tasty and certainly set the stage for some amazing meals in Beijing!
After lunch, we made our way to the Lama Temple (Yonghegong). I’ve visited the Lama Temple twice before (once with Richard and Tom and once with Jesse), so I won’t go into too much detail now, but for those of you who don’t remember, the Lama Temple is one of the few active Tibetan Buddhist temples in Beijing. The grounds date back to the late 1600s when they were built as an imperial residence, before becoming the home of the Yongzhen Emperor (before he was the Emperor). As such, the buildings are built in the imperial style similar to the Forbidden City. However, one of the cool things about this visit is that we saw a number of monks and even could hear and peak in on their prayer activities! Usually when I’ve visited temples, I’ve seen many people praying and lighting incense, but it was also really cool to hear the monks do their chanting! Of all of the places we visited in Beijing, the Lama Temple is one of the smaller ones, but it’s also full of some amazing architecture and beautiful Buddha statues (note, because people are actively praying, I don’t take photos of the Buddha statues). The highlight is the amazing 18m tall wooden Buddha, which was apparently carved from a single piece of Sandalwood and brought from Tibet to Beijing in the 1700s!
After seeing the Lama Temple, we did some window shopping in Wudaying Hutong (including going into the super cute cat store) and then I was finally able to take my parents to their lovely hutong hotel (though it was a bit of a maze to find it)! I’m really glad they could stay in a hutong to get a bit more of an authentic Beijing experience! While modern hotels are nice, they’ll likely only be in Beijing once, so it was great to have them see a traditional courtyard (and even get to meet some hutong cats)!
After a short rest, we made our way to Ori Sake, a Sichuan-style vegetarian restaurant for another great meal! Ori is a bit more modern (it definitely has a bit of a hipster vibe) and the food is delicious! We got Yuzu soda, yuba (tofu skins) with Sichuan pickles, fried tofu with chili oil, tofu skewers, spring mushrooms, fried mantou (a Chinese bread), spicy peanut noodles (a big hit, their noodles are amazing), grilled zucchini, crispy veggie balls, and Sichuan jiaozi (dumplings, another dish my Mom really wanted to try)! It was definitely a great meal!
To cap off the evening, we went to Shichahai to see the dragon lit up at night! And we got the delicious sugar covered strawberries (which were on the top of my Mom’s list)! The dragon is still breathtaking when it’s lit up and it’s so fun to walk around the lakes and enjoy a sugary strawberry! My Mom even got to join in some dancing! It capped off a long, but totally fun day with my family and a great start to our time in Beijing!
In lieu of my traditional “Animals of Beijing section (that’ll be abbreviated), we did see a number of street cats and dogs around Beijing, so I’ll highlight what we saw each day!
May 23 – A Visit The Forbidden City and Jingshan Park!
After a quick breakfast at my apartment (and more snuggles with Goldie – she definitely got used to my parents pretty quickly and immediately wanted to be the center of attention), we headed off to the Forbidden City! Unlike all of the other destinations, where I bought tickets in advance, but could have bought them day of, the Forbidden City is one of the few places were you NEED to buy them ahead of time and really, you have to buy them when they go on sale at 8pm one week before. Thankfully I had no issues getting tickets! Although we didn’t want to deal with the lines at Tian’anmen Square, I did make sure to point it out to my parents, too. I think we were all pretty excited to see the Forbidden City!
Although this is the third time I’ve visited the Forbidden City, it is also the first time I’ve gone during the summer, so you can see the river that runs through the city was actually running! (it’s iced over in the winter). Every time I go, I’m blown away by the sheer scale of the city! The Palace was completed in 1421 (almost all of the imperial sites – The Forbidden City, The Temple of Heaven, and a few others are dated to 1421 when the capital was officially moved to Beijing) and stands as a triumph of man over nature. The doors are massive! The stairways are ornate! And everything is full of decoration! Although I usually follow the standard route of perusing through the Forbidden City from South-to-North, we did visit one of the side gardens in the front of the palace, which was quite nice! Outside of the ornate, you can also see some aspects of Ancient Imperial Chinese Life, including sun dials & water collecting jars.
One of the coolest exhibits that my Mom (rightfully so) insisted we visit was the Gallery of Timepieces. While much of what we see of the Forbidden City is ancient, it did house the Emperor until the early 1900s. As such, many imperial jewels, relics, and gifts are housed in the Forbidden City. This was a unique exhibit as it represented clocks given as gifts to the Chinese Emperor from the French, British, Americans, and other European Countries. They also had some Chinese clocks, too. Everything was insanely ornate and definitely looked like something I’d expect to see in Versailles instead of at the Forbidden City! My favorite is the orrery/Astronomy clock!
After that, we continued on throughout the Forbidden City and got to see a number of different Imperial Thrones, as well as getting to see into one of the Empress’s quarters. While most of the rooms are closed, it is cool to see inside and get a feel of what the layout must have been. I will say that while the front of the Forbidden City has large, open expanses for all of the tourists, it was really apparent just how crowded it was in the Northern half of the Forbidden City! While that didn’t impact our enjoyment there were just SO MANY PEOPLE!
However, one of the major highlights is the rock gardens at the end of the Forbidden City! While it was a bit weird to see the trees in those gardens alive and sporting leaves (everything is a bit more desolate in the winter months), the beauty of the rock faces is amazing! All of the stone work is a true contrast to the perfection and opulence of the palaces at the Forbidden City!
After the Forbidden City, we crossed the street and entered Jingshan Park. Originally part of the Forbidden City complex, Jingshan Park is part of the former Imperial Gardens and now home to its own park. As it was quite hot (90+ degrees), we used this as a chance to get some cold water & ice cream. After a rest, we explored the park and were really impressed! While the Forbidden City is amazing, Jingshan Park is home to multiple 17th/18th Century Palaces (built after the Forbidden City) and there were NO crowds. Everything is built in the Imperial style, so it was really cool to see after seeing the Forbidden City.
Additionally Jingshan Park is home to the highest point in Beijing (a manmade hill/mountain – Jingshan – meaning prospect hill), which was constructed with the leftover land from creating the Shichahai lakes and the Forbidden City moat! The hill is home to some beautiful temples/buildings (as well as lots of pretty flowers), and even a few cats (we saw a lot of cats in Beijing and Shanghai – we started carrying cat treats around to feed all of the cats)! From Jingshan Park, you can see all the way to the Drum Tower where I live! While the highlight of the Day was definitely the Forbidden City, I’m so glad we got to see this, too!
We capped off the day with a lovely meal at Fuhui Ciyuan, my favorite Buddhist Vegetarian restaurant here in Beijing, and my friend Richard joined us! It was so nice to introduce him to Jesse in person (he’d been out of town when Jesse had visited previously) and my parents. We got to hear a bit about Richard’s then-upcoming wedding (more on that below) and share a delicious meal! We got lotus tea, a fruit platter, orange juice, eggplant & green beans, spinach & toon “pie”, stir fried bamboo, fried eggplant, stir fried tofu skins, fried mushrooms (one of my favorite bites in Beijing), mustard mushrooms, & tofu with a spicy relish! It was a delicious meal!
We capped off the night by walking around Wangfujing, one of the fancier and VERY modern/Western areas of the city and seeing all of the large neon lights and fun signs! It was a bit of a precursor to what we saw in Shanghai the next week!
May 24 – A Visit to Tsinghua, Jesse Gives a Lunch Talk, 798, and Shabbat!
After an amazing day at the Forbidden City and Jingshan Park, the plan was that Friday would be a bit more of a relaxing day (we still ended up walking a ton). We had a bit of an earlier start as I wanted to be able to show my parents around Tsinghua before Jesse’s lunch talk (though my Mom did enjoy playing with Goldie in the morning – she really liked her new cat toy!) And we saw some other street cats!
It was really nice to show my parents Tsinghua’s campus! Although almost all of my time has been spent in the Weiqing Building and MongManWai Building, I have really enjoyed walking through the campus and being at Tsinghua! They were both really taken by the campus, especially the traditional parts with the lakes! However, a highlight was that there were hundreds of high schoolers visiting campus who seemed to get a real kick out of saying “Hi” to us. While it can be a bit tiresome at times, it’s always nice to see people being friendly with foreigners. We even had a few people ask to take pictures with us! For those of you wondering, we also had a few people ask to take photos with us at the Forbidden City and at other sites in Beijing and Shanghai (I think we got up to 13 or 14 people).
After showing my parents the campus, Jesse went to meet with his former grad school classmate Hui Li (Hui is a professor at Tsinghua) and I took my parents to the Tsinghua Art Museum. You may remember that I went to an excellent exhibit on the Arts & Crafts Movement on my Birthday and my Mom was very excited to see it! After making sure they could get in, I met up with Jesse and Hui before Jesse’s lunch talk. Jesse did a great job highlighting his recent work with the Euclid Space Observatory, a European Space Agency led survey telescope that will be instrumental for studying early universe galaxy clusters. Jesse had a great attendance (~ 15-20 people) and got tons of questions! I’m glad that his talk was a success!
After Jesse’s talk, we made our way off campus to 798, the Beijing art district! I’ve been to 798 a lot of times (the giant mecha panda near the Wangjing South subway station is always a highlight), but it was cool to show my parents around. I think they were taken aback a bit at how different it is from basically everything else they’d seen at this point. It really is quite a unique venue in Beijing! We wandered through 798 seeing tons of street art and did a lot of shopping, too! We also had a nice small lunch (I made PB&J sandwiches) and my Dad got to try his first Chinese iced lemon tea (I think he was a fan)! We also saw a very cute cat with kittens!
The highlight for me was going to the HIVE art gallery and seeing the two new exhibits! As I mentioned before, my friend Sarah from Kehillat Beijing works there, so checking out their exhibits has been on my radar. They had two really distinct shows. One, an almost impressionistic display of modern Chinese art inspired by traditional Chinese lacquerware. It was really cool how the farther you got from the pieces, the more the image appeared! The second exhibit featured very different art and included some western and religious motifs, as well as a bit of science! I’m really glad my parents got to see such a cool exhibit!
We concluded the evening with a wonderful Kehillat Beijing Shabbat at Roberta & Ted’s home! It was so wonderful to finally introduce my parents to Roberta & Ted (they had a long conversation with them at dinner and really enjoyed meeting them) and have them meet some of my friends here including Mich, Kevin, and Sam. I co-led the service with Sam & Kevin and everyone had a great time. And, because Ted has a guitar, my Dad was able to accompany us and join in on a few different songs! In honor of Bob Dylan, it was Robert Zimmerman Shabbat, so Ted went all out with the food puns (my Dad really enjoyed that, the food was equally delicious, too!). And my Mom loved Roberta’s Challah and was also super excited to eat bread! As always, Roberta & Ted do so much to foster and strengthen this community and I’m so happy that my parents (and Jesse, but he’ been there before) could take part in another amazing Kehillat Beijing Shabbat and better understand the community that has been my home for nearly 3 years!
May 25 – A Rainy Day at the Temple of Heaven and a Visit to the Drum and Bell Towers!
Heading into Saturday, we knew that we were going to be going to the Temple of Heaven, but we also knew that there was a very high chance of rain. Unfortunately, the rain did win out, so we had a rainy day Saturday. However, this didn’t prevent us from enjoying, albeit a bit wet, the Temple of Heaven! In case you’re wondering, this is not a Buddhist temple, but rather an ancient Chinese Temple where the Emperor would pray for a good harvest. We started our trip to the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) visiting a few of the different smaller side buildings and gardens (the weather wasn’t terrible when we arrived). I’d seen some of these when I went with Richard two years ago, but definitely hadn’t seen them all. Some of the highlights were that one housed some of the original wood pillars (many of the buildings – like most Chinese historical sites – have been restored). As the rain came down, we walked under a nice covered walkway and stopped by two museum exhibits filled with different antiques from Ancient China. This included tons of small, ornate statues, vases, and potentially musical instruments! It was amazing just how ornate everything was!
After that, we made our way to the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests, the main (and largest) temple at the Temple of Heaven. Although (as you can see from the photos), the rain was coming down, it doesn’t make the magnitude and scale of the Temple any less breathtaking. One of the cool things is that you can get really close to the interior of the temple. While the light didn’t make it easy to see in, with the right camera setting, you can see the inside! You can see that the circular temple is constructed using square crossbeams. This was done for symbolism as Heaven is represented by a circle and the Earth a square, highlighting the connection between the two. We then waited for the rain to lighten up a bit before venturing out to the remaining two temples at the Temple of Heaven.
One of the cool things about the Temple of Heaven is that all three main temples are elevated above the grounds, so you can imagine the Emperor looking down on the gardens as he walked from temple to temple. The next temple we visited is the Imperial Vault of Heaven. While the rain prevented us from experiencing the iconic echoing, we all were again impressed with the architecture. Lastly, we wrapped up our rainy day tour with the Circular Mound Altar, which is where the Emperor would actually pray for a good harvest (you can see my Mom spinning around here). Although it is difficult to capture, but the number 9 appears throughout the altar, as a representation of the 9 layers of Heaven, as well as Chinese dragons and the Emperor.
Following our tour of the Temple of Heaven, we went to a delicious meal at Gongdelin, a vegetarian restaurant that is actually part of the same restaurant chain as Godly, one of Jesse’s favorite restaurants in Shanghai. We got a poached pear juice (really more of a dessert), kaofu, sauteed mushrooms (everyone really liked this, but we had to make sure to remind my Mom & Dad that the peppers here are generally not bell peppers, but chilis), vegetable baozi, sauted eggplant, Sichuan green chili vegetarian mock fish, and Beijing style crispy vegetarian duck (this was a big hit as my Mom loved getting to make little pancakes – akin to Peking duck, and we all loved the crispy tofu skins)! It was another great meal and also a great way to dry off!
After lunch, we changed our plans a bit. Originally, we were going to go to Behai Park, but since it was still raining, we decided to visit the Drum Tower (Gulou) and Bell Tower (Zhonglou) as they are covered and we wouldn’t get too soaked! But first, we stopped by my apartment to say hi to Goldie! She definitely really liked being the center of attention and seeing all of us and my Mom really bonded with her!
Visiting the Drum Tower was definitely the right call as it did not disappoint! Since Jesse had been here before, he wasn’t surprised, but my parents were shocked by how steep the steps to the top of the tower are and that they just go straight up! However, once we made it to the top, we were treated to an excellent drumming performance as well as amazing views of the city! From an Astronomy perspective, the Drum Tower is also super cool as it features a number of different traditional Chinese time pieces, as well as a cool mini museum on the history of the Drum Tower. Additionally, I finally got to see their interior light show! While it was all in Mandarin, it did look really cool!
We then made our way across the square to the Bell Tower! Although the Bell Tower isn’t active and to my knowledge they don’t ring the bell, it does have a grandeur to it! It definitely doesn’t disappoint and is such a cool historical artifact, especially as Beijing’s Bell Tower is home to the largest cast iron bell in China!
After a brief respite, we made our way to Bestease (also called Bai Yishushi Lanzhou Su Stretched Noodles), a delicious vegetarian restaurant and noodle house. Of course, we had to get some noodles (we got a traditional noodle soup with seitan and some greens) ! But we also got mushroom & seitan skewers, stir fried potato shreds, fried cumin mushrooms (another amazing bite), sizzling tofu (this was also when my Mom realized that almost all of the tofu in China is softer tofu. Generally people don’t press/use extra firm tofu here), apricot tea, and pear soup (again, like it’s plum cousin, this is juice). It was another delicious meal!
Also, here are some cool pictures of my parent’s hotel, some of my neighborhood hutong cats, and other fun things! My favorite is that there is a “pop-up” Pop Mart store in the square between the Drum Tower and Bell Tower and that it is located exactly where I used to get COVID tests. COVID test stations get to grow up to be Pop Marts!
May 26 – A Visit to the Summer Palace and Beihai Park!
While it may have been rainy on Saturday, Sunday was a perfect day (ok, maybe it was a bit too hot). After stopping over for some breakfast and to spend time with Goldie, we headed off to the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan). The Summer Palace is where the Emperors, starting in the Qing dynasty, would summer as it was closer to water and mountains, allowing them to escape some of the brutal heat of Beijing in the summer. One of my favorite things about the Summer Palace is the entrance! You cross a river (so you get a bit of a water town vibe) and get to see the amazing palace right from the start as you climb the steps to the top of the hill! This allowed us to walk right up to some of the cool statues/carvings on the roofing of the buildings and we were able to peer into the insides of some of the temples and see some Buddhas (note, these are not active temple sights).
While the Palace is the first thing you see, much of the grounds are dominated by Kunming Lake, a giant manmade reservoir constructed by Guo Shuojing (noted Chinese Astronomer and waterway expert) as a way to maintain a stable water supply for the palace. But while the Lake is ever present, the gardens are also intricately designed with more beautiful architecture, as well as a number of large rock statues (much like in the gardens of the Forbidden City). Also, as it is still an Imperial site, there are tons of dragon motifs all throughout the Palace!
One of the coolest parts of Kunming Lake are the small manmade islands and the intricate stone bridges built to connect them to land. As these bridges needed to allow boats to pass under them, some are quite arching, to get high very quickly! The longest bridge was full of small stone lions and allowed us to walk and explore the island. It’s really easy to imagine how serene a palace this must have been, especially as the grounds were not open to the public. While we weren’t able to see the entirety of the grounds (it was getting late, we were hungry, and still wanted to go to Beihai Park), what we saw of the Summer Palace was fantastic and we all really enjoyed it!
After going to the Summer Palace, we made our way to Wutai Yun, a neighborhood Buddhist vegetarian restaurant and hotpot (it was too hot for hotpot) for a delicious meal. We got Kung Pao “chik’n”, Sichuan style sword beans (the first of many, and one of my Mother’s favorite dishes – she was super excited to try these), sauteed potato shreds, crispy fried mushrooms (there were so many amazing mushroom dishes), a sauteed cauliflower! We also had a delicious (though not pictured) barley tea. Everyone at the restaurant was super warm and welcoming (it’s a bit removed from the more touristy areas, so I don’t think they get as many foreigners as some of the others) and they also have a great little vegan shop (we got some delicious rice snacks and I got some chili oil and sesame paste to take with me to Italy).
After lunch, we made our way to Beihai Park! Like Jingshan Park, Beihai Park was part of the Imperial Gardens and is thus styled in the same manner as the Forbidden City. It actually created a really nice parallel as both Beihai Park and the Summer Palace are dominated by large lakes! We started our time off with some ice cream before visiting the White Pagoda! As you can see from a lot of the photos of the lake, the Pagoda dominates the skyline in Beihai Park! We trekked up to the top, before making our way down through the temple portion, letting us see even more Buddhist temples and statues! It’s really amazing how all of this is right in the center of the city!
After the Pagoda, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the rest of the park. We got to see some more imperial style palaces and lots of pretty gardens. As we were all getting a bit tired, I wanted to make sure we all saw one of my favorite parts of the park, the Nine dragon scroll! Although they call it a scroll, it’s really a giant wall of a statue and one of the most amazing things I’ve seen here! Everyone was really amazed by the detail in the dragons and how they are carved into the stone in 3D, so it is not a painting! It was definitely a highlight!
After a rest and some sugar covered strawberries, we all got together for dinner. As I had a hunch my Mom was missing western food a bit, we went to Toast by the Orchid, an Israeli restaurant right by the Drum Tower. We had a delicious meal and my Mom was super excited to eat bread! We got passion fruit soda, quinoa tabouleh, roasted eggplant hummus, muhammara, pita bread, falafel, roasted cauliflower, and another roasted eggplant dish! It was a delicious meal and a really nice change of pace. Although I love Chinese food, sometimes it is nice to try something different! And afterward, my parents got to pop into a Chinese grocery store to see all of the different fruits and vegetables.
During our downtime, we also got to spend some time hanging out with Goldie!!
We also walked by the Shichahai dragon again, saw some more hutong cats, and saw some other fun things!
May 27 – Exploring the Mutianyu Great Wall and Walking around Shichahai!
Going into Monday, I think we were all collectively the most excited! We were heading to the Great Wall of China! Specifically, the Mutianyu Great Wall! This is the nearest restored section of the Great Wall to central Beijing in the Beijing district of Huairou. To get to the Great Wall, I reserved a taxi for us so that we would leave at 8:30am and arrive around 10am (and then leave for Central Beijing at 3pm). This gave us ample time at the Wall, but also plenty of time to explore Shichahai later. While the drive out to the Wall was pretty dry, it was so exciting once we got to the Wall Site. Unlike previous times I’ve been to wild portions of the Wall, we had to take a bus from the tourist center to the Wall site (which, given how much walking we did on the wall, was greatly appreciated). Once we got to the Wall, it all becomes pretty amazing. While I had thought I booked us tickets for the ski lift (which has a slide down, shucks!), I actually booked us tickets for the gondola – My Dad was definitely relieved as heights are not his favorite.
After scanning our passports multiple times (all our tickets were linked to passports), we made our way to the Wall! And it was amazing! While it was far more crowded than when I previously went, since we got there early in the day, we got to hike from tower 14 to tower 21 of Mutianyu (and back!). In case you’re wondering, the portion of the Wall we were on has steps, so when you see the crazy steep slope, don’t think we were somehow walking sideways! I’m so impressed that we all could do it! While it was definitely a bit exhausting, it was really amazing to climb through different towers and peak out and see the landscape. And when we got to the top of Tower 21, wow, just wow! It was incredible! As you can see from the photos, the Wall hugs the mountains, so we were really at the whims of nature.
In case you’re wondering, there’s no gondola exit at the top of that tower, so we had to hike all the way back where we entered (going down those stairs is not really any easier than going up – ok, maybe a bit easier, but it’s still tough). And I want to say that I’m saying hike because the walking is HARD! The steps are not even and it really is a workout! While The Great Wall is amazing, one unexpected thing was just how many foreigners we’d see! We met a couple who were NC State Alumni (Phil, if you’re reading this, I thought you’d like that), multiple couples from Russia, and a couple from Spain! It really felt like all of the foreigners were on the wall! Everyone was very friendly and there were lots of pictures being taken (I think it helped that most of us could speak more English than Mandarin).
The other amazing thing was that there were cats on the wall! I expected seeing them at the base and even where we got off the gondola (there were), but we saw two very curious cats on the actual wall! Now we weren’t at a cliff, so the cats likely were wild and just hopped onto the wall, but it was pretty unexpected! Like the cats, there were also vendors on the wall selling cold beer and cold water (every time they saw a white person they tried to get us to buy beer – who buys beer at 10am, I’ll never know). It’s sort of amazing and a bit depressing that it is quite commercial – but at least the Wild Wall still exists! As a wrapper on the Great Wall, if you remember my early blog posts, this is actually where Roberta took me when I stayed at her home for Sukkot)! After 2.5 years, I can say that it really looked so much different. Possibly because I last visited it was during COVID-Zero, but also possibly because it was a rainy day, there were so many more shops and businesses at the base of the mountain before the Wall – though last time Roberta and I hiked from Huairou, so it’s possible all of that was there and I just didn’t see it. On the plus side, it meant there were tons of cats when we had our picnic lunch!
Once we got back to Beijing, we wanted to stretch our legs, so I got to show my family the rest of Shichahai! We saw Qianhai on the 22nd & 26th, so this time I wanted to show my parents Houhai & Xihai (and Jesse hadn’t seen Xihai). It was a lovely afternoon to stroll around the lakes and there was a lot going on – lots of people doing water activities! My Mom & Dad especially loved the west side of Houhai (the non-commercial part) and Xihai, since they are a bit quieter and less commercial. They also really liked the little memorial to Guo Shuojing and the replica of the ancient astronomy instruments! I’m so glad they got to see one of my favorite places in Beijing! And we got to cap it off with sugar covered blueberries!
For dinner on Monday, we went to Blosson (or Huaikai) Vegetarian, another great vegetarian restaurant here in Beijing! Because my Mom really loved the the wrappers with the vegetarian duck, we got another dish where we made little pancakes, but this time with a delicious soft tofu! We also got orange juice, bamboo with Thai basil, xianbing (which I learned to make in April!), sauteed lotus root, a mushroom & bamboo dish, and a slightly spicy tofu (ok, this one was too spicy for my parents). It was another delicious meal and a marvelous way to cap off such a memorable day!
Also, in between going to the Great Wall and walking around Shichahai, we got to hang out with Goldie! She loved getting all of the attention! We also saw a few other hutong cats, some seemingly domesticated ducks, and some other fun things, too!
May 28 – A Visit to the Old Summer Palace (and my friend Lu joins us!)!
Our last day in Beijing was a bit different than the previous days. Because we were only going to the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan), we got off to a less rushed start in the morning (I also wanted to make sure everyone had time to pack since our train was pretty early in the morning on Wednesday). We started the day with a bit of shopping in the hutongs after some snuggles with Goldie.
Around 11, we made our way to another one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants in Beijing, Woye Oii. Unlike most of the other Buddhist Vegetarian restaurants, Woye Oii is a Japanese/Korean/Chinese fusion restaurant, so the food is pretty unique! Because we hadn’t tried hot pot and Woye Oii does small, individual hot pots, we got a small soy milk & tofu hot pot (my parents really liked it, but agreed it’s definitely a winter dish), a delicious sun dried tomato rice dish, a Japanese style lentil curry, a Korean fried rice, and delicious hawthorne juice! It was all delicious!
After lunch, we made our way to the Old Summer Palace! While we’d done all of the other sightseeing by ourselves, this time, my friend and colleague Lu joined us! Lu is a postdoc at Texas A&M, but she was back in Beijing to get her US visa renewed, so we were able to hang out and she got to meet my family! For those of you who might be thinking what’s the difference between the Summer Palace and the Old Summer Palace, the answer is quite a lot! For starters, during the Opium Wars, the Old Summer Palace was ransacked and destroyed by British and French troops, so much of what you see is ruins. Furthermore, the main palaces were built in a Western style, so the ruins look far more like what you’d see in Europe (with large swaths of marble and stone, rather than traditional wooden Chinese architecture). However, like the Summer Palace, the Old Summer Palace also has sprawling grounds that make it quite easy to spend the day exploring!
As I mentioned previously, you can see that the ruins do look quite different. While most of the ancient sites we’ve visited have been reconstructed/refurbished, I’m glad that the Old Summer Palace is kept as a reminder of the brutality of colonialism (though maybe from a Chinese perspective, it’s a bit different). You can see the majesty of the large estates that no longer remain. And yes, that is a bust for Victor Hugo, who not only wrote Les Miserables, but was also an outspoken critic of the French during the Opium Wars.
Outside of the ruins, we had a really fun day exploring the grounds, seeing lots of swans and ducks and hanging out and hearing about Lu’s upcoming JWST work (some of which I’ll be working with her on) and her recent trip to Spain! Since it was such a nice day, we also got to rent a boat and I got to be the boat captain! While not a full motor boat, I did navigate us safely around the lake and I think I did a pretty good job (hey, nobody got wet). It was a bit like driving a bumper car, I could drive forward, reverse, and that’s it. Only one speed, so I was at the whims of nature. It was a magnificent day and (despite the heat) a lot of fun! We even got to try a baked sweet potato (a traditional Chinese snack) out of a vending machine!
Since we were so close to Tsinghua’s campus, we got dinner at Tianchun Miaoxiang, the vegetarian restaurant near campus. While Lu couldn’t join us, we were joined by my friends and fellow postdocs Pablo, Daniele, and Josh and my friend Miriam and her husband James! So we were a really large group (thank you Lu for calling and making us a reservation as there was no way I could have done that). I don’t think I’ve ever ordered so many dishes at once! We got passion fruit juice, cold “military tofu”, flame tofu (see the video below), bamboo with okra (surprisingly common in Chinese cuisine), mushrooms with okra, jiaozi (dumplings), karameshi (mapo) tofu, wheat grass juice (Pablo really wanted to try it), stir fried tofu skins, stir fried cauliflower, fried lotus root, stir fried spicy mock meat, stir fried mushrooms, mushrooms + chestnuts + lotus root, tofu skin rolls, stir fried eggplant, and plum soup (plum juice)! It was a delicious meal and my parents really enjoyed getting to meet all of my friends! I’m so glad we could cap off our time in Beijing with such a fun evening!
We also saw a few cats during the day! Including some at the Old Summer Palace and a very small (and hungry) hutong cat (I hope she’s ok – I gave her a lot of food) when I went to my parent’s hotel. Also, a big congrats to Jesse, who capped off the day giving a virtual talk at the DES meeting (and Goldie only interrupted once!)
May 29 – Heading to Shanghai and Visiting the Jing’An Sculpture Garden!
On Wednesday morning we got up bright and early for our train to Shanghai (but not before my Mom got some last snuggles with Goldie)!
While we hit a ton of traffic getting to the Beijing South Railway Station, once we made it, everything went smoothly (because Jesse & my parents were each taking a suitcase of mine, we had to reserve a minivan to make sure there was enough space for all of us). If you’ve never had the opportunity to take a “fast train” or a “bullet train”, I highly recommend it. In China, it’s a super relaxing and convenient mode of travel. You don’t have to get there hours ahead of time, if you travel first class (similar in price to a plane ticket), you get a large, comfortable seat, and you even get snacks!
Despite the fast train going ~ 330km/hr, it still takes ~ 4.5 hours to get to Shanghai from Beijing (they really aren’t that close). Once we got to Shanghai, it was nice that a little bit of the pressure of being in charge was off me. While I was still organizing everything, since Jesse lived in Shanghai for 4 years, I let him plan everything and he did a fantastic job! Since we arrived in Shanghai around 2, we went straight to our hotel, the Fenyang Garden hotel, which is right around the corner from where Jesse used to live. After dropping off our things, we got a jianbang as a snack! Jianbang were the last of the foods on my Mom’s list to try and are a Chinese style crepe/burrito. Like a crepe, the dough is made directly in front of you, but then it’s filled with a variety of savory ingredients (usually egg, but I go without egg, a cracker, lettuce, veggies, and pickles). It’s super tasty and we all really enjoyed them!
After getting jianbing, we made our way to the Jing’An Sculpture Garden by way of walking around Jesse’s old stomping grounds. It’s sort of amazing how some things have changed (obviously Jesse doesn’t live there anymore), but even some of the neighborhood cats were around and things still looked pretty familiar (and IAPM mall still looks like the future)! Also, if the photos don’t make it pretty obvious, Shanghai and Beijing have TOTALLY different vibes. Shanghai definitely is a bit more hipster-y and ultra modern with quirky signs and posters that make it equally fun to walk around, while Beijing is a city of order and history.
Unlike many of the parks we visited in Beijing, which are traditional Chinese gardens, this is a modern park! It’s filled with amazingly unique sculptures that make it so fun to walk around. While the beautiful fields of tulips that I saw the last time I was there in March 2023 weren’t there, the park is still stunning in the summer! Also, I don’t know if it’s just because it’s warmer or if it was a quieter day, but we saw so many cats in the park. Some were really friendly, and I’m really glad we brought the cat treats with us and could give them all a snack!
After the Jing’An Sculpture Garden, we capped off the day with a delicious meal at Vegetarian Lifestyle (which was the second Vegetarian restaurant I went to in China, and Jesse’s first)! We started with tea, and then got crispy fried mushrooms, grapefruit juice, a delicious stir fried eggplant, traditional homestyle braised tofu, pan fried jiaozi (I love the crispiness), lotus root “meat”balls with bok choy, kung pao chik’n, sword beans (my Mother’s favorite), and lion’s man mushroom bao! It was all delicious and although there are a lot of similarities between Beijing and Shanghai vegetarian food, it’s nice to see some of the different dishes, too!
We wrapped up the night with a fun walk back to our hotel through Jing’an and Xuhui! I love how Shanghai lights up at night!
May 30 – An Amazing Tour of Jewish Shanghai and a Visit to the Yu Gardens!
On Thursday, we kickstarted our time in Shanghai with a dose of Shanghai Jewish history. When Jesse was in Shanghai, he had the opportunity to take a number of tours of historic Shanghai and once we had scheduled this trip, he reached out to Patrick Cranley, one of the organizers of Historic Shanghai to see if we could get a tour of Jewish Shanghai. Thankfully, we were able to book a private tour and it was pretty amazing! We started the tour at the Bund, the iconic river-side area of Shanghai (if you’ve ever seen the Shanghai skyline, it’s the Bund). For those of you who don’t equate Judaism with China, there is actually a surprisingly long connection between the two dating back to the 1800s (ok, not Beijing old, but still old). The two prominent Jewish families in Shanghai (the Kadhooris & the Sassoons), as well as other Jewish families (all of whom were primarily immigrants from the Middle East) helped to develop the Bund and create many of Shanghai’s iconic art deco-style buildings. We even were able to go in and see one of the most famous buildings, the Peace Hotel, one of the original hotels on the Bund, and also a hotel originally owned by the Sassoons (it was also one of the few hotels in Shanghai that allowed foreigners when China allowed for relations with the US in the 1970s – interestingly, China just passed a bill encouraging ALL hotels to accept foreigners). Patrick told us some pretty incredible history about the Peace Hotel and a number of other amazing buildings by the Bund. We also got to venture into one of the older Shanghai style row houses that was the home to former New Yorker columnist Emily Hahn.
That history then continued into the 1940s when Shanghai was a visa free city and thus was one of the few cities that was a safe haven for Jews during the Holocaust. While I’d been to the Shanghai Jewish Refugee Museum before, it was pretty fantastic to have a tour. Patrick was keen to highlight some of the narratives of the museum and how the assimiliation of Jews into Chinese society (or at least a few Jews that the museum highlights) might’ve been a bit of an overstatement. I hadn’t made a lot of the connections that the buildings from that era are still around and it was so cool to talk to someone who’s met so many 1940s Shanghai Jews and had the chance to take them back to Shanghai. Additionally, one of the cool things at the museum is that it’s always growing. They are always looking for new materials from former Shanghai-ers and even though I was there last August, there were definitely some things I didn’t recognize! In terms of the museum itself, they do an excellent job weaving a narrative of the daily life of Shanghai Jews. In particular the schools and social clubs that the Jews made for themselves (although there were a number of other foreigners, the Jews were discriminated against – ironically, the Jewish Social Club was across the street from the hotel we stayed at). They also highlight so many interesting stories including a story about Peter Max and his search for his childhood “ama” who taught him to paint, various stories of Jewish weddings in Shanghai, and a story of refugees who left their library to Chinese neighbors (who kept the books until donating them to the museum, always hoping their neighbors would return).
After seeing the museum, we walked to the synagogue. Although we couldn’t go in because it is under renovation, it is still cool to see. Additionally, Patrick took us around the area in the immediate vicinity of the Ohel Moishe Synagogue (including walking by the childhood home of former US Secretary of the Treasury W. Michael Blumenthal) and one of the few parks the Jewish children could play in when the Japanese created the Shanghai ghetto. Again, it’s amazing to see a history that is a bit more tangible to me and really understand more about Jewish life in Shanghai!
After the tour, we returned to the Bund to walk around a bit and enjoy the iconic skyline! Although I’ve seen it multiple times, it always feels like something out of the future! It’s so cool!
After that, we walked to lunch at Huiyuan Vegetarian, one of the first vegetarian restaurants that Jesse went to in Shanghai! We had another delicious meal! We got orange juice, cauliflower dry pot, kaofu, sword beans, stir fried noodles, and seitan bao buns!
We followed that up by making our way to the Yu Gardens. For those of you who don’t remember my early blogs, the Yu Gardens are a traditional Chinese style garden right in the heart of Shanghai. Surrounded by large walls, when you’re inside the gardens, you’re transported to another world (similar to the Forbidden City). While you can see the large buildings of the Shanghai skyline, you really do feel like you’re in the past. Additionally, I noticed a bat motif for good luck outside the gardens – just like at Prince Chun’s Mansion in Beijing (and in my apartment) and a very cute cat!
For a bit of a history lesson, the Yu Gardens date back to the 16th Century, though they didn’t become open to the public until the 18th Century and they took their current form in the 19th Century. Unlike the sprawling grounds of the Summer Palaces in Beijing, this is a much smaller gardens, so it was packed with tourists (it was a little too crowded for my Dad)! However, it still is breathtaking, especially the small ponds (and the goldfish), with the intricate bridges and pathways! One cool thing that neither Jesse nor I had noticed previously is that their are large stone dragons throughout the gardens (I’d seen the one at the back, but not the other ones).
Upon exiting the gardens, we entered the Yuyuan Bazaar, where we saw tons of cool gifts (and picked up a few for ourselves and others), as well as the outer edge of the gardens (where the cover photo from Jesse’s blog was taken). We had perfect timing as it starting raining just as we got to this part (the shops are covered). You can see that there are a ton of fun shops all around and we even got some more sugar covered strawberries!
We capped off a great day in Shanghai by going to Jesse’s favorite Taco Bar, Tacolicious. For those of you who didn’t read Jesse’s blog, Jesse hosted a monthly Kehilat Shanghai trivia at Tacolicious and Kehilat Shanghai hosted many a Channukkah and Purim party there (Logan, the owner, is a friend of Jesse’s and a Kehilat Shanghai community member). We also met up with another one of Jesse’s friends from Kehilat Shanghai (Judith). I must thank Logan for an excellent meal (and lots of complementary appetizers and limeade). We had some delicious vegan tacos – the harissa mushroom is amazing (as were the zrou and black bean tacos)! It was so fun to hear about whats been going on in the Jewish community in Shanghai and catch up with Logan and Judith! My parents also really enjoyed the meal and ambiance and meeting some of Jesse’s friends!
We also saw some fun things throughout the day that I wanted to share!
May 31 – Exploring People’s Square, The Jing’An Temple, and Tianzifang!
On Friday, we started off the day a bit differently because Jesse was giving a talk at the TD Lee Institute at SJTU and visiting his former supervisor, Ying Zu. Instead of getting up and going, we had a bit more of a leisurely morning. We started off by getting another jianbing for breakfast (they are so good) as we waited for the rain to stop (if you can see, we also found out that our hotel was across the street from the historic Jewish social club – Patrick told us about that!).
Around 10:30, my parents and I went to People’s Square/People’s Park. Although I had no issues navigating in Beijing, it was definitely a bit tougher navigating by myself in Shanghai, especially when we got to the park! It took me forever to find the underground sidewalks since you can’t cross the immediate street! Thankfully, by the time we actually got to the Square, the worst of the rain had stopped. While it was a rainy day, one of the best things was that People’s Square wasn’t too crowded and we saw a TON of cats! I’m so glad that I brought all of the cat treats with me and could give a snack to some lovely cats. While some were skittish around humans (we had a few fight over the treats we were giving them), others were super friendly! We also saw an amazing flock of birds basically take over an entire walkway in the park! I’ve never seen so many birds in one place before!
After walking around People’s Square, we headed to People’s Park! While the last time I was there was during cherry blossom season in March 2023, the Park is still quite pretty and even features a small Chinese amusement park! You can see the Journey to the West and the Monkey King feature prominently in the motif! We also saw a beautiful lake at the center of the Park!
After our morning walk, we met Jesse at LN Fortunate Vegan Cafe, a Hong Kong style vegan restaurant featuring Chinese fusion cuisine. We had another amazing meal and even got to try a vegan berry cheesecake (one of the benefits of Shanghai’s vegan scene is there are a bit more vegan desserts on menus)! We got watermelon juice, a peanut satay noodle curry (with seitan and tofu), raspberry & strawberry tea, an avocado salad (my Mom was quite excited to see salad on the menu – it’s pretty uncommon in China), tofu & nori rolls, , stir fried Singapore noodles, and a tofu & eggplant clay pot!
After lunch, we decided to stroll through the Former French Concession and walk to the Jing’An Temple. The Jing’An Temple is one of the iconic Shanghai landmarks as it is a large Buddhist temple directly in the middle of the city! Unlike the Lama Temple (and most of the other temples we saw in Shanghai), the Jing’An Temple is more vertical than horizontal, with a number of small prayer halls connected along a rectangular courtyard, and then a second and third story featuring an amazing, large, ornate Buddha! Although the site featured temples as early as the 3rd century, the current version of the Jing’An Temple dates only to 1983. One of the most distinctive aspects of the temple are the incredibly ornate gold ornaments, including an amazing three pronged lion!
You can see all of the architecture as we walked through the temple. You can see how people crammed coins into the mouths of wooden lions (I believe for good luck), as well as some fish symbolism, which I believe dates to an early native-Chinese religion. The entire temple is pretty amazing! Additionally, we got to do our best and try to toss coins into the relic for good luck! The Jing’An Temple also looks amazing at night when we drove by, too!
After the Jing’An Temple, we went to explore Tianzifang, an amazing neighborhood that’s a fusion of 798 with the shops near Shichahai in Beijing. Jesse was happily surprised to see that the neighborhood had grown back to its former glory and had so many more shops than when he left (post-COVID hurt Tianzifang a lot). It’s also just a really fun area filled with lots of cool shops!
We concluded the evening with an amazing vegan dinner at DULI. You may remember that they did a pop-up in Beijing, and while the restaurant had to move locations in Shanghai (it’s not around the corner from Jesse’s old apartment), the food is still amazingly delicious! DULI is another Chinese fusion restaurant, and we got blueberry smoothies, a delicious avocado and yuba salad, mapo tofu hummus (I will definitely attempt to recreate this is Italy), a roasted cauliflower curry, tom yum wonton soup, cripsy cauliflower bao fritters (an amazing bite), and a delicious homemade tofu rice bowl!
And because Shanghai is such a unique city, we also saw some more fun things, too!
June 1 – Visiting the Jade Buddha Temple and Richard Gets Married!
We started off a very fun Saturday with a trip to the Jade Buddha Temple. Unlike the Jing’An Temple, here the temple grounds are a bit more sprawling (similar to the Lama Temple in Beijing) and we saw multiple monks praying. The temple grounds are pretty immaculate! It’s such a cool array of rooms with different Buddha statues in each prayer hall.
However, one of the unexpected parts of the Jade Buddha temple is that there is a Buddhist art gallery! This wasn’t traditional Buddhist artifacts on display, but rather paintings either done or inspired by Buddhist philosophy. There were many interesting depictions of monks, temples, and everything in between. Jesse hadn’t seen it before, so it was nice to all get to experience something new!
The interesting counterpoint to the majesty of the Jade Buddha Temple is that while there is a large, ornate main temple, neither of the Jade Buddhas are in that temple! In fact, Jesse said that the first time he visited he only saw one of the Jade Buddhas (the second one is a bit hidden)! Although I didn’t take photos, the two Jade Buddhas are really different, but also amazingly beautiful! I usually think of jade statues being in various shades of green, so the colors are quite unique and quite different!
Additionally, as we were leaving, we saw two adorable cats who were putting on a show for all the patrons!
After going to the temple, we walked around Jesse’s first apartment in Xin’tiandl before meeting his friends Heather & Shimi (and their 2 year old daughter Rae). However, on the way, Jesse ran into one of his old neighbors from when he lived in Xintiandi! Though there was definitely a language barrier, the older man was so excited to see Jesse! It’s nice to be missed! While I don’t anticipate any of my neighbors missing me in Beijing when I leave next Saturday, I’m glad Jesse made such a positive impression. We also stopped by Fuxing Park, another lovely neighborhood park!
Although I like all of the parks, Fuxing Park is special since it features a statue of Karl Marx & Friedrich Engels. Jesse and I have taken many a photo with “Uncle” Karl, so it was nice to take one with our Dad, too!
For lunch, we met up with Heather, Shimi, and Rae and had a wonderful meal at VegeGood! We got cold bamboo & mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, orange juice, passion fruit lime soda, an avocado salad, sweet & sour chik’n, noodles with mushrooms, tofu, crispy tofu skins, vegan “egg” (tofu), mushroom & seitan skewers, crispy fried tofu, and tofu skin rolls!
After lunch, we walked around Xintiandi. This area is unique as it is super famous for being the home to the foundation of the CCP, and is thus very popular, but is also a modern shopping district! It was really cool to see anther fun area of Shanghai and since the heat had set in, we got some ice cream, too!
Around 2pm, I had to excuse myself because I needed to get to Richard’s wedding! For those of you who might not remember, Richard is my good friend and fellow Tsinghua postdoc and he married his wife, Serena (that’s her English name), in Shanghai (Serena’s dad is a professor at SJTU – where Jesse worked). While I won’t got into too much detail about the wedding, I will say that it was a lovely time! And it was so nice that the majority of the foreign postdoc crew could make it (it was me, Richard, Paulo, Pablo, Daniele, Tom, and Josh!). The ceremony was quite nice, with a lot of honoring family, but also a very fun exchange of vows! Richard had to promise not to eat durian near Serena and Serena promised to watch the Lord of the Rings with Richard.
Also (and I know Richard was a bit worried at times about this), the vegetarian food was delicious! Really, it was one of the best wedding meals I’ve had! Unlike western weddings that are either sit down or buffet style, Chinese weddings are banquet style, so all of the dishes are brought to all of the tables! So my table was the vegetarian table! There were lots of mushroom dishes and some other delicious dishes too!
To cap off the night, after a great wedding, the party migrated to KTV (or karaoke)! This was my first time doing karaoke in such a large group, but it was so much fun! I love to sing and if you ask Pablo, I was holding the fort down making sure singing got done! It was a lot of songs from the 90s and 2000s (Evanescence, Maroon 5), but also everything from the Beatles, to Ed Sheeren, to Taylor Swift, and more! Definitely a highlight and a great way to celebrate Richard & Serena (though it was also a VERY late night)!
In case you’re wondering, my parents & Jesse didn’t just go back to the hotel and sit on their thumbs. They had a lovely afternoon going to People’s Square, People’s Park, and back to the Bund and Peace Hotel with Heather! I’m glad we each could have such a lovely afternoon/evening!
June 2 – Walking Through the French Concession and Visiting the Longhua Temple!
Sunday was our final full day in Shanghai, so there were still a few things we wanted to do! We started by going taking a relaxing walk through the Former French Concession so that we could see a bit more of Jesse’s experience in Shanghai! In particular, we stopped by Xujiahui Park (anther Park where Jesse used to run) and see the pretty flowers and a few more cats! Although Beijing does have parks, in the part of the city I live in, it’s mostly historical parks, so I’m a bit envious of all of the green! Additionally, I’m always taken by the unique trees in this part of Shanghai and the architecture of the buildings is really unique (they have a miniature version of the Flat Iron building, which appears to be one of the most popular tourist picture destinations). Although we couldn’t go in, we also got to walk by SJTU’s original campus (Jesse worked at the new campus) and see the main gate! It definitely has traditional Chinese gate vibes.
Our walk culminated in an amazing lunch at Godly, one of Jesse & my favorite vegetarian restaurants in Shanghai (and a fitting place to have our final Chinese meals in Shanghai). We had a delicious lunch! We got flower tea and a whole slew of our favorites including kaofu, seitan “balls”, crispy vegetarian duck, sword beans, sauteed eggplant, jiaozi with peanut sauce, and mapo tofu! It was a delicious meal and a lovely capper for the Chinese food we got to eat together!
Afterwards, we went to the Longhua Temple, another large Buddhist temple (this time a bit farther from the center of Shanghai). The Longhua Temple is defined by it’s towering pagoda – the pagoda was traditionally used for storing sacred relics, unfortunately, you can’t go in, but it still looks amazing! It’s so interesting that all three Buddhist temples have so many similarities and differences! I love (really in all of the Shanghai Buddhist Temples) the stark contrast of the yellow exterior with the exposed stone. Longhua Temple featured multiple amazingly ornate prayer halls filled with large depictions of multiple Buddhas and Bodhisattvas! Its a visual feast! We also got to see even more temple cats (it was a hot day and these cats looked to be enjoying the heat for a nice nap!).
After going to the Temple, we walked to the Longhua Gardens, which features various western-style statues dedicated to the martyrs who lost their lives during the Communist revolution. It’s another beautiful park and was a great way to cap off our explorations of Shanghai!
We concluded the evening with a lovely meal at Eli Falafel with Jesse’s friends Kitty & Mat and their sons Lucas and Daniel. I’d met Kitty once in person (and a few times on zoom) and Matt and one of their sons at Trivia when Jesse hosted, so it was nice to see them again and for Jesse to catch up with everyone. While I know that he’s said a lot of his friends have left Shanghai, I’m glad a few are still around! We had a lovely feast filled with Middle Eastern delights including babganoush, grape leaves, muhammara, hummus, salad, pita, falafel, eggplant, tabouleh, cripy fritters, za’atar pizza, an eggplant & onion dish, and mint lemonade!
And we concluded the evening with watching the Bund from the other side of the river! I’m so used to seeing it from the side Jesse lived on, but seeing the historic building lit up is still really amazing!
And of course, we also saw some other fun things throughout the day!
June 3 – Au Revoir Shanghai, Jesse, Mom & Dad!
On June 3, we woke up bright and early to head to the airport. Even though I wasn’t flying back to Beijing, I wanted to make sure my parents and Jesse got checked in safely and that there were no hiccups at the airport. We reserved a van to take all of our stuff (thank you to Jesse for taking so much stuff for me and for my parents for taking another suitcase of mine, too!). Thankfully everything went smoothly at the airport. It was definitely sad to see them off, but it’s nice to know I’ll see them in a few weeks at my cousin Robbie’s wedding! Once they went through customs, I took a cab to the Shanghai Railway Station so I could begin my 4.5 hour trek back to Beijing.
Thankfully, the fast train is really comfortable and it allowed me to get a lot of work done on my “postdoctoral thesis!” (It’s done, but more on that next time). After five days away, Goldie was certainly excited to have me home!
All in all, this was an amazing trip and I’m so glad that I got to show my parents even a sliver of my China experience – even though I leave in less than a week (that still feels weird writing).
Guest Spot – Jesse’s Thoughts on Returning to China!
First, thanks Emmet for organizing and facilitating this excellent trip and for writing such a fantastic summary! Prior to returning to China, I’ll be honest and say I wasn’t as excited as my parents. While I was very excited to see Emmet, having seen some of these things before and having had many of my friends leave, I wasn’t sure what to expect and how much I would enjoy returning. However, having the opportunity to share my experiences in China (especially Shanghai) was very special and really made the trip for me! I also really enjoyed getting to see new things in Beijing like the Temple of Heaven and Summer palaces, while also visiting favorites (the Great Wall, Forbidden City, Longhua Temple, Jewish Refuge Museum, …). Moreover, both Beijing and Shanghai felt much closer to the China I arrived in in 2019 than the one I left. Although my Mandarin is still poor, I was able to fall back into rhythm for some of my old activities (especially in Shanghai, where I still know my way around quite well)! Overall, I had a wonderful time. While some things, like my lack of Mandarin still make things hard, there were so many special highlights that made the trip worth it! Some highlights included enjoying all the foods I’ve missed, seeing Goldie, visiting anime stores with Emmet, getting to see my close friends from Kehilat Shanghai (Heather & Shimi, Kitty, Mat & Family, Judith, Logan), visiting Ying and SJTU, and the surprise highlight of running into my old neighbor from Xintiandi! While I don’t have any plans to visit China in the near future, this was a wonderful and meaningful coda to my time in China and I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to do this trip!
What Am I Reading / Watching?
On the reading front, I’ve been so stressed with packing, postdoctoral thesis writing, and getting all of the paperwork in order that I haven’t had a chance to finish reading Artemis yet (I will though!). On the tv front, I have finished a couple of shows. Specifically, I watched Silo on Apple TV+. It’s a really intriguing post-Apocalyptic drama about a society that has survived on earth living in a silo (similar in premise to Snowpiercer, basically all of society exists in this hundreds of stories underground silo). The mystery of the show is that you (and the characters) do not know what happened to the world to make it this way and they don’t know anything about the history of the world either. Rachel Ferguson is terrific as the lead and it’s a really well-paced and exciting show! I can’t wait for Season 2. I also finished watching the anime Trigun Stampede! Unlike most anime that are direct adaptations of manga, this is a reimagining of the class Trigun manga and while some of the changes were confusing at first, it was quite fun! I loved the animation and really enjoyed the show!
East Meets West
Although I won’t have the usual sections of the blog, I did want to highlight some of the Western influences that we saw in Beijing & Shanghai! As you can see, American pop culture has a way of appearing everywhere! Here are some of the sights in Beijing!
And of course, given its cosmopolitan nature, here’s what we saw in Shanghai!
Anime & Comics
Similarly, no Astronomer in Beijing post is complete without me highlighting all of the manga, anime, and comics paraphernalia that I’ve seen! As you can see, we saw a lot! Loads of Haikyu, Dragon Ball Z, One Piece, Naruto, and more! I will really miss seeing this everywhere, but I’ll keep an eye out in Padova! I’ll especially miss both the small and large anime stores. I love window shopping in them! Here’s what we saw in Beijing!
And not to be outdone, here’s what we saw in Shanghai! There were a few larger anime store, particularly in the area near the Yu Gardens!
As always, if you made it this far, thank you so much! I know this was a bit of a different blog and quite long, but I hope you enjoyed hearing and seeing all of the sights from my family’s trip to Beijing & Shanghai! As always, if you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please reach out via e-mail or comment below! It’d be great to hear from you. As I said, I leave Beijing on June 22, so this next week will be filled with a lot of last minute things to wrap up my time here (and a couple of fun things, too). I hope that June is a fun, safe, happy, and healthy month for you all! While the next week will bring an exciting new step to my journey, I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about this last hurrah in China!
Welcome back to my Astronomer in Beijing blog! I hope you’re all doing well. For all of you in College Academia, I hope the end of the semester isn’t too hectic. For all of the Mother’s out there, I hope you had a lovely Mother’s Day! Although I wasn’t able to see my Mom on Mother’s Day, I’m very excited to have my parents and Jesse visit later this week! It’ll be so great to show them around Beijing (and Shanghai)! As you all know by now, my time in China is swiftly coming to an end. I’m in the process of packing up my apartment (definitely not the most fun thing, although Goldie likes jumping in the suitcases). I also just booked my flights to Italy. I’ll leave Beijing on June 22. It’s a bit surreal and sad that I know my time is almost over. That said, despite having a lot of paperwork/forms/reports that I need to do for both Italy and China, I’m trying to do some fun things, so I hope you enjoy hearing about them!
Passover in Beijing
If you remember, my last post was just before Passover, so that feels like a great place to start. This year, I co-lead the Kehillat Beijing Community Seder with my friends Kevin & Sam (we co-lead services every week, too!) at the Capital Club Athletic Center. We had about 80 people at the Seder and although there were a few hiccups in terms of corralling everyone to start, we had a lovely time! We really wanted to make sure that there was a lot of community participation, so we had ~ 30 volunteers do English and/or Hebrew readings and I think everyone really enjoyed the Seder! This was my first time leading a Seder and while it definitely is a bit stressful (it’s harder when everyone isn’t around one large table – we had 10 tables), It was a lot of fun. We also had some lovely music provided for us by various Kehillat Bejing members (Chad Gadya, Let My People Go, Dayenu, etc), which added extra ambiance!
On the second night of Passover, Roberta & Ted hosted a smaller Seder for the Kehillat Beijing board and a few other friends, which was equally lovely! We did the tradition of going around the table for reading the Hagaddah and I made my Mother’s Date Charoset as well as a Vegan Matzah Lasagna! Of course, Ted had delicious matzo ball soup and it was a fun night all around! It was a nice contrast, too, from the larger Seder to a more intimate one.
Vegans of Beijing Cooking Class
The Saturday before Passover, I went to another amazing Vegans of Beijing cooking class with Chef Chao at the Hutong Cooking School. This time, Richard and Tom joined me (and look at our aprons!)! Last month, Chef Chao taught us to make xianbing, a stuffed chinese pie/pancake! Like with the baozi, jiaozi, and other doughs, this one was a bit tricky, although the dough was a bit easier to deal with (possibly due to the water content – but it was quite sticky!). We first mixed the dough by hand (it’s only flour, water, and a bit of salt – we use a high gluten flour for the stretchy-ness), before letting it rest. While our dough rested, Chef Chao taught us how to do the chopping for the different fillings. As always, his knife skills are amazing! Since the weather is quite warm now, we were able to do all of the prep-work and eating outside!
Once the dough had rested, we needed to roll it out into thin circles which we then stuffed with three different delicious fillings! Similar to when we made jiaozi, each person was responsible for making a different filling. I made the pickled cabbage and rice noodle pie (I really like how Chef Chao uses the rice noodles to add some extra texture!). Richard made the Chinese chive and Tofu pie, and Tom made the carrot, mushroom, and cabbage pie! All three were very different and incredibly tasty (Especially topped with Chef Chao’s chili oil – I have that recipe, so I may need to try to make it when I’m in Italy, as I expect it’ll be a bit harder to track down chili oil).
Unlike the baozi, and especially the jiaozi, where there is an aesthetic beauty, for xianbing, it’s a bit more of a street food. What I mean by this is once you stuff it, you roll a rolling pin over the pie so that it’s uniform thickness, which makes it easy to pan fry. Once we’d all made our different pies, we passed around the various plates and got to try them all! They were all so good! I don’t think I had a favorite, but I definitely want to make these again!
Kehillat Beijing Goes to the Ancient Observatory!!
Although I’ve done many lovely things as part of Kehillat Beijing, one of the things that I hadn’t done yet was have a chance to meld my life in China outside of Astronomy with my Astronomy work. While there aren’t too many chances, a while back I had posted a NASA Astronomy Picture of the Day featuring the Ancient Observatory in Beijing. A number of people from Kehillat Beijing expressed interest in visiting, and I was finally able to organize a trip this past Saturday! While I’m not a tour guide and my knowledge of Ancient Chinese Astronomy isn’t perfect, it was still really fun to take everyone around and show the various large Astronomical Instruments, discuss the history of the Jesuits bringing different Astronomy tools to China, and also answer some general Astronomy questions! We had about 13 people including me and it included a lot of friends, as well as some new community members, too! Going in, I was definitely a bit nervous because although I’ve visited the Ancient Observatory twice, I wasn’t quite sure how I could give a tour (and since they don’t let you buy tickets ahead of time, I couldn’t guarantee that it wouldn’t be randomly closed). We ended up exploring the different exhibits and I did my best to answer various questions about how different calendars worked, why there was a need for an observatory in Beijing, how sextants work, what is azimuth, and various other devices.
Everyone seemed to have a great time! I’m so glad that I could share a bit of my Astronomy with so many friends from the community. One of the highlights was now that I know the history of Guo Shuojing, one of the most famous ancient Chinese Astronomers, who also helped construct/connect the Shichahai lakes, I saw his name everywhere – including on the stellarium (the large black sphere which replicates the position of the stars in the night sky! We capped off the tour with a visit to the tower to see the larger than life Astronomy instruments, as well as a great view of Beijing (and we got to have Ted tell us some great stories of his early times in Beijing in 1989 – if you’re a history buff, this year may be familiar). My only regret is that I wish we could try to use one of the instruments (or just try to move one)! I’ve used a sextant before, but that was modern and MUCH smaller. It’d be fun (though likely dangerous) to try to use them.
A Tale of Two Art Museums: The Tsinghua Art Museum & 798!
Because my birthday was in the middle of Passover this year (April 24), I didn’t want to attempt to do a Birthday dinner on my actual Birthday (I did have a birthday dinner a week later). Instead, Richard, Pablo, and I went to the Tsinghua Art Museum! We’d been meaning to go for ages, especially as it is right next to our office building, and as Tsinghua staff, we get in for free! The museum was really great and they had a few different shows!
The highlight was the Beyond Arts & Crafts: From Morris to Mackintosh, an Exhibit on the British Arts & Crafts movement. Unbeknownst to me (but told to me when I talked to my Mom later in the day), my Mom is a big fan of the Arts & Crafts movement and we have a few different William Morris tapestries in my house that are quire similar to those in the exhibit (I did think they looked familiar).
Outside of that exhibit, we saw a few different exhibits including Modern Chinese Art, Chinese embroidery, ink painted scrolls, and Mediterranean/South Asian/East Asian pottery. I’ve included a selection of my favorite pieces below! It was really cool to see! There was one additional contemporary art exhibit that I didn’t get to see, so I may try to stop in to see that sometime before I finish! Ultimately, it was a fun way to celebrate my birthday and take a break from working!
Early in May, I decided to head to Shabbat a bit early so that I could go to 798 and see a cool exhibit at the HIVE gallery, where my friend Sarah from Kehillat Beijing works. For those of you who don’t remember, 798 is the Artist district in Beijing and it’s filled with a ton of amazing contemporary art exhibits. Although I’ve been to 798 multiple times, I’d never been to HIVE, so I was excited to see the exhibit and have Sarah tell me about the exhibits! There were two exhibits and they were very different. The first featured stunning drawings showing man’s descent into madness and the extremes of depression during the throws of COVID Zero. You see lots of illusions to inner monsters and the light and dark sides of human nature. The art was certainly stunning and powerful, although not necessarily something I’d want on my wall. Unsurprisingly, Sarah said that the original show was about double the size, but that much of it was censored and couldn’t be shown.
The second was another beautiful set of works by a young Chinese artist, though this time focusing more on color and zoom-ins of landscapes. It created a unique dichotomy between the two shows!
And of course, no visit to 798 is complete without seeing some cool street art!
An Anime Convention in Beijing
On the first weekend of May, I stumbled on a WeChat post about an anime convention happening in Beijing! This immediately caught my interest and because the convention was at the Olympic Park, I decided to go! While I couldn’ figure out how to buy tickets ahead of time, they would not allow me to select a Passport as the ID type, when I got there, i was surrounded by a Sea of Cosplayers and immediately felt like I was back at Boston Comic Con. It’s really eerie how similar this convention center is to the one at the Seaport. While there were a ton of Chinese “anime” characters that I did not recognize, I saw a ton of people dressed as characters from anime’s like Attack on Titan and Haikyuu and multiple people dressed as the Joker. It was really cool to walk around and see all of the vendors. While there wasn’t an artist alley – my favorite part of US comic conventions, where you can talk to creators, buy prints, and get sketches – there were a lot of cool vendors to take photos of, some fun sketch walls with large anime drawings, and some carnival games like I saw at the Ditan Park Temple Fair! I had a lot of fun just walking around and taking photos! And in case anyone is wondering, I wasn’t the only foreigner! I ran into a group of friends, two of whom were from Canada and one from Poland!
A Trip to the Olympic Park!
After going to the anime convention, I decided to head north from the Olympic park and visit the Olympic Tower and the Olympic Forrest park. Although I’ve seen the Olympic Tower, this was my first time visiting it (I’ve always walked South towards the Bird’s Nest, not North). For those of you who’ve been to Seattle, the Olympic Tower is a bit like the Space Needle. You take a 200+ story elevator to the top, but the views, even on a grey and cloudy day are worth it! The tower itself is full of Olympic memorabilia, so it was really cool, too!
After the Tower, I continued north to the Olympic Forrest Park. On my internal list of things to do in Beijing, this is one of the last things that I haven’t gone to, so I’m really glad I got to go. Since the park is enormous, I only saw ~ 1/4 of the park, but it was really cool! My favorite parts included the mini waterfall, a submerged portion of a bridge, where you stood eye-level in a lake, and getting to see some baby ducklings! It was a lot of fun to walk around someplace new and it’s really pretty!
Astronomy Update: Life at Tsinghua
While I had hoped to be wrapped up with Project Morphology this month, I’m still stuck on a bug in my code when it comes to measuring the magnitude (the brightness) of the galaxies. I’ve been working with one of my colleagues to attempt to troubleshoot it, but even in trying to have Jesse run the code on a separate computer, we still get the same error. I have a few more ideas involving the detection thresholds when the images are in different units, but I’ve needed to spend time working on all of the forms to officially finish up my postdoc at Tsinghua and all of the paperwork for Italy. That said, much of my time this month has been spent working on my Postdoctoral “thesis” – for those of you familiar with typical Astronomy postdocs, this is pretty unusual. Because of the multitude of forms and paperwork required for my postdoc at Tsinghua, I need to put together a “thesis”. While much of it is taking existing papers that I’ve written, it still has taken longer than I would like to reformat various figures and tables. Currently, I’ve finished the portions where I’m just inputting existing material, but I still need to write up Project Morphology. Although it won’t be perfect, I do have the preliminary analysis done, so I can include that. While I wish I could spend a bit more time doing actual science, it’s starting to look like much of my summer will be spent wrapping up both Project Morphology and Project Low-Z. In terms of the paperwork for Italy, I finally have my Brown and Boston University degrees and transcripts translated and certified, so my parents can send them to the Italian Consulate in Boston before they come to visit me. While it seems like endless paperwork, I’m glad that things are finally starting to come together. Despite the grind, the campus is at least pretty, so I can share some lovely pictures with you all.
This month, the Tsinghua Department of Astronomy celebrated their 5th Birthday! While for their previous birthday’s, the department had a small celebration with cake, this year, we had a full, all-afternoon Department presentation. While it was not the most fun way to spend my Saturday (especially as there was NO English), I did get to see the new Astronomy building, which I almost certainly won’t get to move into. Additionally, I did finally get to see the Tsinghua Observatory. However, there wasn’t any old telescope in the dome, just a modern telescope, but it was still cool!
Additionally, on April 25, Pablo, Tom, and I took part in a fun calligraphy class hosted by the Tsinhua International Scholars office. Although my Mandarin is quite poor and my recognition of characters is really bad, it was fun to play with paint brushes and attempt to recreate different characters. While I know my strokes aren’t perfect, I really enjoyed it (although I don’t think I really followed the assignment – I ended up painting a phoenix and a dragon with some rough characters and a fish for Pablo). Pablo and Tom really liked mine, though! Both of them are definitely better at the writing than me!
Jewish Life In Beijing
Between this post and the last post, we’ve had four amazing Shabbat dinners as well as two lovely Passover Seders. While it’s a bit sad as Shabbats have become a bit of a countdown to the end of my time in Beijing, I thoroughly enjoy them and am so glad that Roberta & Ted have created such a wonderful community where I belong and have the ability to co-lead services and share my thoughts on the week’s Torah Portion. I’m really glad that I’ll be leaving Beijing on a Saturday night, so one of my last Beijing memories will be a Shabbat dinner. This month, we started things off with a “Matzah Madness” Shabbat, since it was still during Passover. We then followed it up with “Golden Week” Shabbat for the May Day holiday in China. Last week, we had a fun Mother’s Day Shabbat in honor of all of the Mother’s in our Community, too! And this week we had a Norwegian Shabbat! Although I didn’t make anything for the first and third Shabbat, I did make some delicious fudgey brownies (which I also shared with some of my vegan friends and some of my colleagues) and carrot cake cookies!
Goldie!!!
Goldie remains my ever present companion. She definitely can tell that something is going on as suitcases are creating new perches to jump on and jump in and she has a new favorite box to sleep in (sadly, the box won’t be coming with us). I’m happy to report that I also booked Goldie on all of the flights, so she is set to go as my carry on (For anyone wondering I needed to call Air France to reserve her spot after booking my tickets – on large flights, like the Beijing to Paris flight, they allow 8 animals in the cabin, while on smaller flights, like my flight from Paris to Venice, they only allow 4. In each case, Goldie was the first cat signed up). I’m also happy to report that I have all of Goldie’s paperwork ready except her exit paperwork (I can’t do that until a week before). While Goldie may not know it, she’s almost ready to be an international traveler (I even booked a cat friendly AirBnB for Padova, too!).
While Goldie has definitely enjoyed jumping in all of my suitcases, she’s also still really enjoyed burrowing under all of my blankets and in boxes. I’m hoping that Goldie isn’t too disappointed that most of her favorites of my blankets won’t be coming to Padova, but I’m sure she’ll find new blankets to burrow under.
Exploring Beijing
This month, I also hung out a few different times with Richard in different parts of the city. During Passover, Richard, Daniele, and I went to a Thai Food Festival. While there wasn’t a ton of vegetarian options (I had a few different Thai teas as well as a mango coconut milk dish), I did try durian. For those of you who aren’t familiar, durian is one of the most unique fruits in all of the world. It’s hard to describe it. It’s spiky on the outside, but the fruit is sort of like a custard-like consistency that tastes sometimes sweet and other times like onions and garlic. While it isn’t my favorite fruit, I definitely am glad to say that I can try it! I also was glad to have Richard there to tell me whether it was “good” durian. If you’re wondering, I was wearing gloves to eat the durian so the smell wouldn’t stick on my hands after I ate it.
We also explored a smaller art district near the Central Business District in Beijing!
Last weekend, Richard and I met up to do our favorite pastime – wander around Shichahai (no really, it’s the thing we’ve done the most) and hangout. It’s always fun to just catch up and hear about his wedding plans, travel plans, and chat about Shogun and other things. We got a delicious lunch at Woye Oii (see the Vegan food section) and then walked it off by exploring the Nanluguoxiang Hutong street (It’s a giant street full of vendors) and Shichahai and Xihai (where we saw some miniature recreations of the Astronomy tools from the Ancient Observatory and a statue to Guo Shuojing!) Thankfully, Richard will be back in Beijing after his wedding/before I leave, so I’m sure we’ll get to hang out a few more times (and hopefully go to King’s Joy, the Vegetarian Three Michelin Starred restaurant in Beijing), but it’s always so much fun to hang out together!
And of course, no springtime/summertime post in my Astronomy in Beijing blog would be complete without showing all of the flowers in Beijing!
And in all of my exploring, I also saw a ton of other cool statues, posters, bike decals, and other fun things that I wanted to share! While I’m sure I’ll see interested things in Padova, I’ll miss all of the random cute figurines and statues!
Vegan Food in Beijing
Because of Passover, I didn’t eat out too much for the first part of the month. However, on May 1st, I met up with Richard, Pablo, Daniele, Josh, Rice, and Chris for a late Birthday dinner. We went to Fuhui Ciyuan, my favorite Vegetarian restaurant in Beijing! We got orange juice, Beijing buns with “mock meat”, steamed walnuts, fried eggplant, a large spinach “pie” – similar to what I made in the cooking class, spicy Sichuan-style Vegetarian mock fish, mustard mushrooms, cumin mushroom skewers, spicy tofu skins, sweet potato rolls, fried rice in a banana leaf, and Beijing style tofu! It was all delicious and made for a lovely Birthday dinner! We also got gelato after and I got a blueberry and lemon gelato!
I also joined my friends Andrea and Lionel (and some of Andrea’s friends) for a fun trivia at SideStreet an Indian-Influenced pub. We had delicious food! I got a vegan Indian-spiced patty, an eggplant salad, and amazing Gobi Manchurian (an Indo-Chinese Cauliflower dish). And to cap it off, we won! I haven’t played/partaken in trivia outside of Jesse’s Kehilat Shanghai trivia questions in a while, so it was nice to play!
As I mentioned above, last Sunday, Richard and I got lunch at Woye Oii, a Japanese-Korean-Chinese fusion vegetarian restaurant in Beijing! It’s a little bit of a hole in the wall, but the food is great and we really enjoyed it! We got a Japanese style tofu hot pot, a Korean style fried rice, and a Japanese style lentil curry. We also got hawthorn juice! You might be noticing that giant white ball. We fell victim to thinking that it was a mochi, but instead it was a dessert that was a giant ball of cream cheese. While the dessert was a let down, everything else was amazing!
Additionally, this month I did a ton of vegan cooking! I made lots of charoset for passover, matzah crunch, homemade vegan chocolate “FOMU” ice cream, vegan Matzah lasanga, lots of matzah pizzas, homemade quinoa falafel, vegan chocolate brownies, seitan with roasted cauliflower, a lentil taco salad, and carrot cake cookies!
What am I Reading/Watching?
On the reading front, I can be short and sweet. I’m still working my way through Artemis. I’m nearly done, but with all of the paperwork, it’s been a lot of late nights and I haven’t had a ton of time to read. I am hoping to finish it up soon.
On the TV front, I finished FX’s Shogun! I cannot recommend it enough. For those of you who are unfamiliar with it, Shogun is based on James Clavell’s novel of the same name and centers around a fictionalized version of William Adams (called John Blackthorne in the novel and played by Cosmo Jarvis) and Tokugawa Ieyasu (called Toranaga Yoshi and played by Hiroyuki Sanada). The show is excellent and does an amazing job crafting the beauty and cruelty of ancient Japan. You see the immaculate streets of Osaka and the Court, but contrasted with the dirtier, more real life Ajiro (the city where Blackthorne washes ashore). The show highlights the influence of Portugal in Japan pre-1600 as well as the animus between the British and the Portuguese and how these quarrels played out in Japan. While I read the novel in 10th grade, it’s always stuck with me and I Ioved that the showrunners built on the novel to make sure the Japanese characters were more fleshed out. It’s not solely the story of a foreigner in Japan, but also a truly Japanese story. I also have to highlight the amazing acting by Anna Sawai, who played Mariko, Blackthorne’s translator and lover. Also, I don’t want to give spoilers, but I know in talking to some friends there was confusion about the ending. All I’ll say here is Blackthorne DOES NOT return home. If you’re confused by this, let me know! Additionally, Shogun works as an excellent foil for Tokyo Vice, which I recently finished on MAX and Blue Eye Samurai on Netflix. While each show is different, Shogun clearly portrays the power dynamics in a more realistic manner than Blue Eye Samurai and helps to set the stage for a foreigner arriving in Japan in the 1990s as in Tokyo Vice. Each show offers a unique window as to what it means to be a foreigner – a gaijin – in Japan. Additionally, this month I finished watching Season 1 of Bosch: Legacy on Amazon Prime. Bosch: Legacy picks up the threads after the explosive series finale of Bosch and we get to see how Harry has crafted his life as a PI and how Maddie Bosch, his daughter, is handling being a rookie cop. It gives more agency to Maddie’s character and offers a different look at cop life in LA. I also finished the third and final season of Alex Rider on Amazon Freevee. This season dives into Alex’s past and his ties to the criminal spy organization Scorpia. I really loved these novels growing up and they do a great job adapting into really compelling tv! I also finished watching Sugar on Apple TV+. While I don’t want to spoil it, Sugar is modern detective noir with a twist and that twist hits hard! Colin Farrel is amazing and creates a really unique hero as he dives into the sleezy underbelly of Hollywood. I definitely recommend it! Additionally, I finished the most recent Mobile Suit Gundam anime, Mobile Suit Gundam: The Witch From Mercury! This is another great anime and great installment into the Gundam franchise. Not only is it the first Gundam with a female gundam pilot, but the creators weave a unique setting for Gundams, making them unique from their previous counterparts. The story is half political intrigue and half mecha-anime, but all heart and a great time! I definitely recommend it!
Animals of Beijing
While Goldie is of course my favorite cat, I did see a lot of other cats and dogs this month. While mostly my neighborhood hutong cats, I also saw a guy walking with his cat just chilling on his backpack, as well as some lovely cats at the vets office when I went to pick up Goldie’s paperwork. Additionally, Mich’s cat Mango made an appearance at Shabbat! And of course, no Shabbat is complete without my favorite puppies Mimi & Honey!
When I was hanging out with Richard, we also went into a fun cat cafe on the lakes! While our iced tea was entirely too sweet, the cats were very playful and lovely! I’ve walked by that cafe many a time and glad I got to meet some of the cute cats (and give them a snack)!
East Meets West
While I didn’t see a ton of US and Western influenced things this month, I did see some fun/unique ones, including a Tim Hortons, some Mickey Mouse, and a Lynyrd Skynyd bike seat!
Anime & Comics
And of course, no Astronomer in Beijing post is complete without all of the cool manga, comics, and anime paraphernalia that I’ve spotted around Beijing! This month, I saw lots of Pokemon, Demon Slayer, Doraemon, DragonBall Z, & Batman. I really do love stumbling upon these displays in the hutongs and taking photos!
And I had to highlight the amazing 1TOY in 798! I’ve been here before and I’m always in awe of the giant selection of anime and comics statues! While these are well beyond my budget (and size scale), they all look really cool (especially the Super Saiyan Goku!). I hope you enjoy seeing them!
If you’ve made it this far, thank you so much! I hope you enjoyed reading about what I’ve been up to in Beijing in my final months. I don’t have too many blog posts left, so I hope you enjoyed these ones. The next few weeks should be both fun and work-filled as I need to finish up by Tsinghua Thesis and am looking forward to showing my parents and Jesse around Beijing! I can’t wait to share with you what they think of the different historical sites! As always, if you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please feel free to reach out either via e-mail or by commenting below. I hope you all have a lovely end to May!
Welcome back to my Astronomer in Beijing blog. I hope this post finds you all doing well. For those of you in the US, I hope you enjoyed the Solar Eclipse! All of the photos I saw looked amazing and I’m definitely a bit envious – I’m already planning to try to make the 2026 solar eclipse that goes through Spain. For those of you who celebrate Passover, I hope you all have a lovely Seder on Monday night! Here in Beijing, I’ll be co-leading Kehillat Beijing’s Community Seder, but more on that next time. As spring arrives in Beijing, it’s really starting to hit me that I’ll be leaving Beijing in approximately 2 months (I really need to start looking at flights). I’m slowly starting to pack up my apartment and I’m making a list of things I’d like to do before I leave Beijing. It’s definitely bittersweet and I wish I had a bit more time (but I think I’d feel a blue regardless). However, that hasn’t prevented me from doing some fun things in the interim, including a visit to a traditional Chinese mansion and an amazing lantern display. I hope you enjoy reading about everything and seeing all of the photos!
Purim in Beijing!
Although Passover is just around the corner, since my last post, we celebrated Purim in Beijing. For those of your unfamiliar with it, Purim is a festival where Jews recount the story of Esther who helped prevent the destruction of the Jewish people by the evil Haman. Here in Beijing, we celebrate by doing a Purim Shpiel (ok, this is pretty traditional), but unlike most Purim Shpiels, Ted really works to add a bit more humor. This year, we had a full-on Simpson’s themed Purim Shpiel. Because everything came together a bit close to Purim, we did it as more of a table read/performance rather than a play and had about half of the 40 people who came to our Purim Shabbat take part. I got to play “Ho-Mordechai” (e.g., the Homer Simpson Mordechai fusion) and it was a lot of fun (my friend Richard even joined us as he’d been to our Purim Shpiel play a few years ago and really enjoyed it). Ted added in tons of Simpsons references and we all had a great time! Additionally, we had a delicious Purim potluck with lots of hamentaschen (the traditional triangle shaped Purim cookie), too (see the photos in the Jewish life in Beijing section)!
Later in the weekend, I continued celebrating Purim at Chabad’s Purim party! While I unfortunately missed the Megillah reading (I mis-timed how long it would take to get to Chabad via the subway), I did enjoy some delicious Purim treats and it was nice to see friends and celebrate.
Additionally, one of the Purim traditions is to give gift baskets to friends and family. I got a lovely Purim basket from Chabad as a gift from Roberta and Ted (I now have a very nice Havdallah set). Also, with our friends at Kehilat Shanghai, Kehillat Beijing did a combined Purim basket exchange with members of the community. We had a number of people from Beijing and Shanghai join and I made a nice Purim basket for my friend Sam and I got some lovely Purim goodies from one of my brother’s friends, Bec!
Prince Kung’s Mansion
As the weather has really started to warm up, I’ve been trying to do a few things on my Beijing wish list that I haven’t done in my 2+ years here. One of them is to visit Prince Kung/Prince Gong’s Mansion (there is some debate about the name of the prince). The Mansion itself is the palatial estate of a former prince in the 1700s/1800s, much like Yonghegong, the Lama Temple was before it became a Tibetan Buddhist temple. Aesthetically, the estate looks like a scaled down version of the Forbidden City, with many a dragon motif around the palace. However, unlike the Forbidden City, you can still find quite a bit of Buddhist influence in the architecture and the decoration. Additionally, while the Forbidden City can sometimes feel like a triumph of human architecture over nature (although maybe it’s more lush in the summer? – I’ll find out when my parents visit), there were tons of blooming trees in the home portion.
One of my favorite portions of the Mansion is that you can see inside some of the rooms! While I’ve seen paintings and photographs of traditional Chinese homes, this was really cool and a bit more reminiscent of visiting European estates where you can get a better sense of how people lived. The only downside is that outside of the rooms, they also transformed large reception halls into museum displays, but unlike some of the other places I’ve visited, everything was in Mandarin. While a lot of the displays were beautiful, I definitely missed a bit of the historical context.
However, the best part of the Mansion is the gardens! I’m so glad I waited until Spring! The back half of the estate features a lavish Chinese garden with a large pond (complete with a small temple in the middle of a small lake, which requires a boat to get to it, a goldfish pond, and a miniature rock mountain. It’s really quite beautiful. You can also see a small Buddhist site (the red flags), as well as a cool European style gate in the style of the Old Summer Palace and a miniature “Great Wall” gate.
If you look closely, you might’ve notice a few bat motifs throughout the garden. That’s because bats are apparently a symbol of good luck in China (I’d never heard this before)! You can see Bat windows, bat carvings, bat light fixtures, and even the bond is bat shaped! However, the highlight is a “Batcave!” While there isn’t a Batmobile in the Batcave, there is a carving of “Fu” – meaning prosperity and luck – carved by the Kangxi Emperor. One of the cool things that I discovered is that my apartment even has a Bat motif in it (see the last photo of this block). I’ve had this carving in my kitchen, but never noticed the bats until now!
Additionally, at the Mansion, they had a number of fun anime-esque mascots for kids that I had to take photos of! And, I finally found fortune cookies (fortune cookies are actual a Chinese-American inventions)!
When I was walking to Prince Kung’s mansion, I wandered by this cute traditional style hutong house that I had to pop into. Since I live in a more modern hutong, it was really interesting to see what they used to look like and get a sense of 18th century Beijing life!
Mega Lights Wonderland
While many of the fun excursions I’ve gone on have been to visit traditional sites here in Beijing, one of my great envies from my brother’s time in Shanghai was that he always got to see the amazing lantern displays at the Yu Gardens and I haven’t gotten to see similar ones in Beijing. Well, this all changed last weekend, when Richard, Tom, Pablo, Daniele, David (a new visiting grad student from Oxford), and I (and some of Daniele’s and Pablo’s friends) went to the Mega Lights Wonderland park here in Beijing! This was a full on artistic lantern tour-de-force with hundreds, if not thousands, of lanterns set up around the park to transport you out of Beijing. Although the park opens at 4pm, we knew we wanted to get there at sunset as the lanterns really come alive at night. I’ll let the lanterns speak for themselves for the most part, but just looks at these massive displays (most of which towered over me). It’s really amazing. The first set of displays appeared to be all mythical creatures and animals, highlighted by the giant fairy princess.
After that, was the highlight for this crew of Astronomers, the giant Astronaut and sea of planets! This was so cool! We had to take a group selfie! And I love the way the lights reflect off the lake! And also, look at the cute little spacemen!
After this, we had some cool Pokemon-esque characters including a giant white tiger, an awesome panda, and a Robot DJ!
We then left the land of science fiction to go to the pre-historic era surrounded by magnificent dinosaurs, flowers, and mushrooms!
After a brief foray into a candy display, we saw a magnificent display of ocean life!
We then moved onto some cool anime/video game inspired characters (I couldn’t figure out if these are from a specific video game, but if you recognize the characters, let me know!) These were some of my favorites!
We then moved onto the more traditional Chinese portion of the park, featuring dragon lanterns (like the one at Shichahai), Buddhist-esque New Years displays (lots of good luck fish), and Beijing Opera masks (the one I took the selfie with is for Son Wukong, the Monkey King, who inspired Akira Toriyama to create Goku)!
Lastly, we walked through the Chinese Zodiac and then found an amazing hot air balloon sized lantern lantern, a large Miyazaki-esque city displays, and even more dragons, phoenixes, and pandas!
I hope you all liked seeing the Mega Lights Wonderland. I think the name definitely did it justice. I have to say that the entire time I was there, I couldn’t help but think how much my grandfather, Bompa, my Mom’s Dad, would have loved this. He always loved taking photos of flowers and I can imagine him walking around with a camera capturing some pretty unique photos!
Beijing in Bloom!
With spring fully in swing in Beijing, I find myself taking lots of photos of flowers and budding trees! Hopefully wherever you are, you’re also enjoying the start of spring, but if the trees are still a little barren, enjoy Beijing in spring time (just without the sandstorms – though we didn’t have any crazy sandstorms this year).
Astronomy Update: Life at Tsinghua
As I expect my last two months to be, this was a busy month on the Astronomy front. Partially, this was due to needing to spend some time filling out various forms for Padova so I can get officially hired (thank you Daniele for help with the ones that were in Italian!) and partly because I’m trying to at least wrap up Project Morphology (and have it drafted to send to co-authors by June). I’m making good headway on Project Morphology. I’ve added an additional color analysis to further explore one of the three protoclusters in our sample and I like the results I’m seeing. However, I’m stuck on a bug where the magnitudes (the brightness of the galaxies) seems to be giving me a problem when I measure them (I use two different programs, one to study color and the other to look at the shape – both give estimates of the magnitudes that should agree and they currently don’t). I’m working with some collaborators to troubleshoot it and hopefully will have a solution soon. In terms of Project Low-Z, since that isn’t directly being done with anyone else at Tsinghua, I’m slowly finishing that up (the plan is to finish it up once I arrive in Padova, especially as many people will be away on vacation in July and August). Outside of these two projects, I also spent some time working on spectral classification for the C3VO protocluster survey that I’m part of. It’s been really cool to get a better sense of spectroscopy for early universe galaxies, especially as I’ve primarily worked with photometry. Furthermore, I’ve been working with one of my fellow Tsinghua postdocs (Hongming Tang) to analyze a sample of radio AGNs that he’s working on, and it’s nice to collaborate! Also, one of Pablo’s friends at Peking University raised the possibility of some of us giving talks at Peking University, which is something I’ll try to do before I go! While not related to my research, we also had a lunch talk by a visiting graduate student from Oxford, David Simon, who did his undergrad at BU! He graduated in 2020, and was in the Physics departments, but it was fun to chat about Boston! David’s going to be in Beijing through June, so it’s nice to have another person join our foreigner cohort!
While not directly Tsinghua related, I also had to renew my Chinese visa so that I can stay until late June (it originally expired April 30). While this is my third time renewing my visa, this was the most unusual one as I received a call a few days after going to the visa office asking me to confirm that I have a twin brother. When I obviously said yes, I was told I needed to bring our birth certificates (a thing that nobody has given me a good reason for). Thankfully my Dad was able to get them from the safe deposit box and send a photo (because I was NOT going to stick that in the mail). It all worked out in the end, but definitely a bit of a hassle and still nobody gave me a straight answer as to why they needed them. On a more positive side, I was also interviewed by the International Scholars office about what Tsinghua could do better for foreign scholars. While I won’t be here to see if any of the suggestions I made will be implemented, hopefully this is a sign of good things to come!
While not related to my science, I did get to wander around campus a bit and it looks really pretty, so I hope you enjoy that!
And I also got to see the outside of Peking University for the first time – it’s on the other side of Tsinghua’s campus and somehow I never walked by (hopefully, I’ll make it on campus before I leave Beijing, too!).
Jewish Life in Beijing
While Purim and Passover preparations (I’m co-leading the Seder with my friends Kevin and Sam) took up a lot of my Jewish life this month, we also had five amazing Shabbat dinners (including Purim). Ted was back with themed Shabbat dinners in full force and he really outdid himself (in terms of both food and food puns – read the name tags!). In the last five weeks, we had a Purim Shabbat, an In the Big-Inning (Opening Day in MLB) Shabbat, Spring is Here Shabbat, a Hodge Podge Shabbat, and a Peace on Earth Day Shabbat! Because I got into a rhythm of making things for Shabbat when we did the potlucks, I’ve been brining lots of cookies to share for the last few weeks (I made chocolate brownie cookies, peanut butter chocolate cookies, and apple pie cookies – all very popular!). I really love this community and will definitely miss having such a warm, welcoming Jewish home in Beijing. I’m so thankful to Roberta and Ted for opening their home every week and inviting me to be part of this vibrant community.
Goldie!!!
Goldie continues to be a bundle of joy. While she’s starting to get a bit suspicious that things are changing in my apartment (she’s noticed boxes and suitcases moving and books disappearing), she’s still enjoying a good burrowing, even in the warm weather! While she doesn’t love when I have the fan on in my bedroom, she does love finding a good place to snuggle, especially when I had the water filter repairman came to fix my water filter.
Although Goldie spends a lot of time under the covers, she also loves to nap on the couch while I’m working in my living room (hopefully my new apartment will have a good napping set up for her, too!). She also really likes to watch as I lift weights in the morning, too! She’s so adorable and definitely doesn’t like it when I spend too much time staring at my computer.
Additionally, Goldie’s enjoyed exploring her box and trying out her new cat carrier. While I haven’t tried zipping her in it yet (I’m sure she’ll hate that), she has enjoyed curling up in it! She also really likes that when I pack, she can jump into the suitcases and play around! Hopefully she’ll enjoy my unpacking as much as my packing!
This month also brought a visitor to our door! As you can see one of the neighborhood cats was scavenging in my outside stairwell and Goldie was very interested! She wasn’t hissing or moaning, but it seemed like she was trying to get this cats attention. This cat has sat on the skylight a lot, so it’s a regular, but I haven’t seen it so close since I’ve had Goldie. I do wish I could have fed the other cat, as it looked hungry, but the second it noticed me in the window, it seemed a bit startled and ran away. Still, I’m glad that Goldie can make some friends since she’s a solo cat.
Exploring Shichahai: Houhai, Qianhai, and, for the first time, Xihai
Although the Mega Lights Wonderland was AMAZING, I’m still partial to the amazing Shichahai Dragon that’s been up for Lunar New Year (I’m really hoping it will still be here when my parents come in a month). As Houhai and Qianhai are two of my favorite places in Beijing, I wanted to share some more pictures of these two lakes, especially as they look so pretty in springtime.
However, over the Tomb Sweeping Holiday, I re-discovered that there is a third lake (you have to cross a street, so it’s a bit hidden) called Xihai that connects to the Shichahai lakes! Since I was working from home and trying not to spend the entire day moving between working at my table and on my couch, I decided to go for a walk around Xihai! I’m really glad I did! Not only is it equally beautiful, but it’s a bit quieter, and I found a cool little memorial to Guo Shuojing, a famous Chinese Astronomer (the Astronomy conference I went to last spring was named after him) who is also responsible for creating the Shichahai system of lakes for water travel in Beijing (none of these are natural lakes, they are connected via a series of locks – you can see them in the photo block below). It was really cool to learn a new bit of Beijing history, especially one that hits so close to my actual home! I also wandered into a really cool art exhibit featuring a mix of Buddhist style paintings and lovely portraits of animals!
Vegan Food in Beijing
In late March, Richard, Tom, Pablo, Daniele, Josh, and I went to Ori Sake a small Sichuan style vegetarian restaurant near my apartment to celebrate my getting the postdoc in Padova! It was really nice to be together and it was a great meal! I’m definitely a big fan of Ori’s food as it’s so different from a lot of the other vegetarian food here in Beijing (I love that too!). Ori does small plates, so we got a lot and it was all delicious! We got pomelo soda, Yunnan fried tofu, yuba (tofu skins) with pickles, edamame, Sichuan fried tofu skewers, Sichuan dumplings, peanut noodles, a small hot pot, mapo tofu, veggie balls, bamboo with toon & cashews, cabbage with a red pepper sauce, and eggplant rolls! It was amazing!
Also in late March, I joined the Vegans of Beijing for an amazing hot pot dinner at the Tibetan Tea Vegan Hotpot restaurant as part of the Meatless March Event. For those of you unfamiliar, hot pot is a traditional Chinese dish where you start with a broth and add your own veggies, tofu, noodles (and meats traditionally) to a pot of boiling broth (you don’t eat the broth like in soup). You then cook the vegetables in the broth and then add them to a sauce that you make yourself (you can see the sauce bowls on the table). You can see examples of the array of ingredients we got (lots of veggies, mushrooms, and tofu), as well as the broth! And everything was VEGAN! We had a fantastic time! I haven’t done hot pot too frequently, but it’s been a lot of fun when I have!
And then, I went to a second Vegans of Beijing dinner (also part of the Meatless March Event) at the amazing DuLi pop-up here in Beijing! It was another great group dinner and I had a lot of fun meeting some new people and enjoying some amazing food! We got a non-alcoholic fermented tea drink (kind of like kombucha), a vegan breadbasket, gongbao pizza, Sichuan Stir fry, DanDan gnocchi, tempeh curry, and vegan tiramisu! I always think of Jesse when I eat at DuLi, since the restaurant in Shanghai was near his old apartment, so it was nice to text him some familiar food photos!
Additionally, this month, I went to Tianchun Miaoxiang, the vegetarian restaurant by Tsinghua three different times with three different groups of friends! In late March, Kevin, Sam, and I met there to start discussing Passover planning. We had fried lotus root, kung pao chik’n, taro balls w/mushrooms chestnuts and walnuts, homestyle tofu, and passion fruit juice! It was a great meal and a great meeting!
And then a week later, I caught up with my friend Miriam for a lovely lunch! We got okra and mushrooms, eggplant and chickpeas, spicy Hunnan style seitan, stir fried potatoes, dragon fruit juice, and qingtuan (the green cakes served for Tomb Sweeping Day). It was really great to catch up and hear how she’s doing.
And then this past week, after trekking to the Tax Office to attempt to get our tax refunds (we’ll see if it actually works, lots of issues …), Richard, Pablo, Daniele, and I went to Tianchun Miaoxiang for a delicious lunch. We got passion fruit juice, cold “military” tofu, flame tofu (they light it on fire at the table), tofu skin rolls, taro balls with mushrooms walnuts and chestnuts, Sichuan style spicy mock fish, and sauteed Maitaake mushrooms! It was another delicious meal and certainly made up for the frustrations at the tax office!
Outside of eating out, I also did a fair amount of my own cooking. I made red lentil and potato stew, vegan dal mahkani (for Shabbat), chickpea and lentil curry, a red curry noodle soup, a red lentil chili, white bean and cauliflower chowder, chocolate brownie cookies (for Shabbat), peanut butter chocolate cookies (for Shabbat), and apple pie cookies (for Shabbat). I also got sugar covered blueberries, which were delicious!
Exploring the Rest of Beijing
Although the Lunar New Year is now over two months ago, I’m still finding a few fun dragon decorations that I wanted to share!
Beyond Lunar New Year Decorations, I also saw a ton of cool statues (and cake displays!) around Beijing that I wanted to share with you!
Additionally, I saw a woman doing an amazing flag/kite dance and some cool water calligraphy in the square between the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower.
And of course, I still saw some fun bike decorations (though the bike blankets are slowly disappearing as the temperature heats up).
Animals of Beijing
With the weather warming, my friendly neighborhood cats are out and about. As you can see by the photos, I’ve been trying to give them a snack whenever I can since I don’t know how regularly they are fed. The one in many of the top photos is always super friendly, and it’s always nice to see some cute cats (though Goldie is the cutest!). Additionally, I walked by a very cute cat cafe in Shichahai that I definitely want to check out. And of course, I saw my favorite puppies in Beijing, Mimi & Honey (Roberta & Ted’s dogs), who are always very cute! And also, check out these geese!
What am I Reading/Watching?
In terms of reading this month, I’m still working my way through Artemis by Andy Weir. I’m really enjoying it, and I hope to finish it this month. Outside of that, I also read the first two volumes of the DC Comics Tangent Comics, an Elseworlds tale of a very different DC universe! It’s a really cool reimagining and I definitely recommend it.
In terms of tv, I finished a number of shows in the last month. I finished season 7 of Bosch on Amazon Prime. This is the final season, though it spins off into a direct sequel, Bosch: Legacy, so it’s not really over. This season saw Bosch pushed to the brink dealing with injustice in the courts and protecting his daughter. While I don’t want to spoil the end, the finale was great! I really love that show! Maybe I’ll have to check out some of Michael Connelly’s novels. I also finished the third season of The Rising of the Shield Hero, an adventure anime about a hero transported to a magical world as one of the legendary cardinal heroes destined to save the world. I really liked how this season explored the moral dilemmas of the other 3 heroes and am a big fan! I also finished Constellation on Apple TV+, a very Fringe-esque science fiction show about an astronaut (played by Noomi Rapace) who is involved in an accidental death aboard the ISS. While that premise alone is intriguing, the show goes pretty hard into science fiction, playing with ideas of parallel worlds and crossing between them. I definitely recommend it! Additionally, I finished Hero Tales, an anime about a group of Chinese monks who are blessed by the stars trying to save ancient. It’s based on a manga by Hiromu Arakawa (of Fullmetal Alchemist fame), and while it’s not as good as that, it’s still a fun adventure. A few weeks ago I finished the second season of Tokyo Vice on Max! It’s a fantastic show about Jake Adelstein’s life (it’s unclear how autobiographical the show is, though the general consensus is just the loose beats) as an American reporter at a Japanese newspaper as he dives into Yakuza culture and government corruption. It stars Ansel Englort and Ken Watanabe and it works as an interesting foil to Shogun (e.g., a westerner in Japan, but in the modern day). I’ll talk more about Shogun next month, but I love how in both shows (slightly less in Tokyo Vice), Japanese people speak Japanese and there is a clear understanding of the differences of being a foreigner and the struggle that living abroad can entail. Ken Watanabe really steals the show, though, as the hard hitting detective trying to bring a Yakuza boss down in a sea of corruption. I also liked that the show expanded naturally to include and build-up more of the Japanese cast to really highlight the story of 1990s Japan and not just a foreigner’s perspective. I also finished the anime Lycoris Recoil, a fun action-adventure anime about a pair of girls who protect a modern Japan from chaos. The show works really well balancing the dynamic of the two heroines (one is bubbly and the other is super strict) and has tons of great action! Lastly, I finished Megalobox: Nomad, the sequel to the original Megalobox, which sees Joe return to the ring, but also is an insightful exploration of grief, dealing with tragedy, and how people pick themselves back up! I highly recommend it – oh, and the boxing scenes are great!
East Meets West
This month, I saw a lot of Disney figures around the city! Lots of Snow White, Mickey Mouse, Kung Fu Panda, and Sponge Bob! I also found some remnants of America in an Elvis sign, a Native American Dream Catcher, a scarecrow, and Gibson guitars!
Anime & Comics
And of course, no Astronomer in Beijing post is complete without showing all of the manga, anime, and comics paraphernalia that I saw around Beijing! Since I wandered by many a Popmart this month, you can see tons of figurines from Dragonball Z, DC Comics, Marvel, Naruto, Pokemon, and One Piece, as well as some cool stickers, posters, and Uniqlo t-shirts! I’ll definitely miss the easily available comics fandom here in China (though I am bringing a sizable collection of figurines with me to Padova). I always love wandering by a bike or a window and spotting some cool anime and comics related gear!
Additionally, during the Tomb Sweeping Day Holiday, Pablo and I (and some of his friends) stopped by Steamed Bun Comics and perused the collection! I didn’t buy anything this time, but it’s always nice to see a comic store! We also played some old school Marvel Vs Capcom and somehow my button smashing technique was successful!
As always, if you made it this far, thank you so much for enjoying my Astronomer in Beijing blog! I hope you enjoyed learning about what I was up to this month and seeing Prince Kung’s mansion and the Mega Lights Wonderland. As always, if you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please let me know! It’s always nice to hear from you, whether it be in the comments or directly via e-mail. I hope you all have a lovely rest of April and start to May! And for those of your who celebrate, I hope you have a wonderful Passover! See you next month everyone!
Thank you so much for returning to my Astronomer in Beijing blog. I hope you’re all staying safe and healthy and for those of you in collegiate academia are enjoying your spring break or looking forward to your upcoming Spring break. As the title says, this was a life changing month for me as my plans for post-June 2024 were finally finalized (see below). Outside of that, I was mostly working, trying to make more headway on my research, enjoy the tail end of the Lunar New Year Celebrations in Beijing, and enjoy the start of spring in Beijing, too! So without further ado …
Life At Tsinghua … Coming to an End
After applying to 65 postdoc positions, I am happy to announce that I recently accepted a position in Padova (Padua for the Americans/Brits) at INAF-OaPD (the Italian National Research Center associated with Padova Observatory and affiliated with the University of Padova). I’ll be doing similar science – still focusing on galaxy clusters/protoclusters and galaxy evolution, but with a focus toward future Extremely Large Telescope (ELT) science. ELT is one of the upcoming 30m telescopes that the European Space Agency is working on and while first light is closer to 2030, there is a lot of science that can be done in the meantime to prepare for it. I’ll be using new data sets from JWST, HST, and Euclid to study galaxy evolution! I’m definitely excited to know where I’ll be going, but also be done with the applications (I won’t go into full detail, but 65 applications takes a lot out of you!). I am eternally grateful to my letter writers for both writing 60+ letters and their help in making this decision. I’m also very excited to move to Italy! If any of you have been to Padova (or have plans to visit Italy starting in July 2024), let me know! As an added bonus, my mother’s first cousin’s Amy & Terry live in Vicenza, which is only ~ 30 minutes away, so I’ll get to see some family, too!
On the actual research front, once I had postdoc offers (I was deciding between two different positions), that was really my work focus for the better part of this month. While the interviews for various positions are always stressful, making a decision was a lot harder! Beyond that, I have been slowly chipping away at both Project Morphology and Project Low-z and I am now back going into the office regularly since the Lunar New Year break is over (see the nice blossoms starting to pop up on the trees near my building). Ideally, I’ll have both the science for both projects “functionally done” in the next month, so that I can focus on writing up the drafts and submitting the papers before I leave China. It’s going to be a bit of a sprint, but now that I can focus my attention purely on science again, I’m excited to dive back in! Additionally, I spent a lot of time this month classifying grism spectroscopy as part of the C3VO team for their spectroscopic campaign. For those of you who aren’t familiar with this technique, traditional spectroscopy measure the amount of light in a very narrow wavelength range in a very particular target on the sky, whereas grism spectroscopy uses a grating over a normal photometric imaging instrument to spread out the light across a wider range of wavelengths for all objects in the field. As such, grism spectroscopy gives a bit messier data, but I’ve really enjoyed getting to explore a new data set and technique! Furthermore, I got to observe on Keck again (albeit remotely). In late February, one of my PhD supervisor’s colleague’s had secured a half night on Keck to observe the host galaxies of some of the bent, double-lobed radio sources in my dissertation. Since a first half of the night on Keck was ~ 12 – 6pm Beijing time, I was excited to join and take new spectra (and not have to stay up late to do it!). I haven’t seen the data yet, but I’m excited to see what we find!
Further on the Astronomy front, as many of you are likely aware, there is a Solar Eclipse that will cross a large swath of New York and other parts of the US (Here’s a handy NASA link). I’m super bummed that I’m on the wrong side of the world to see this eclipse, but I encourage you all to check it out (don’t forget to wear proper eye wear – you NEED eclipse glasses) and as an Astronomer, I’m happy to answer any eclipse related questions you have!
On less fun news, the 2025 NASA budget was recently released and it includes MAJOR slashes to the current budget of the Chandra X-ray Observatory that is operated out of Boston. While I’ve not used Chandra directly, I’ve been involved in a number of COBRA-related Chandra proposals and projects and now how important this telescope is. I really hope that the US government can shift some money around and find a way to keep X-ray Astronomy afloat in the US as we build the next generation X-ray telescopes.
Vegan Cooking Class
Yesterday, I spent my morning at another wonderful Vegans of Beijing Cooking Class. We didn’t have one in February (due to Lunar New Year), so it was great to be back with Chef Chao at the Hutong Cooking School. This time, we made three dishes, Sichuan Style cold dressed tofu, vegan Guobao Mushrooms, and stir-fried broccoli with garlic. It was a really nice balance of tofu and veggies and made for a delicious meal! For this class, we started off by doing all of the various prep work for the different dishes. We began with the stir-fried broccoli with garlic. This is a pretty classic homestyle Chinese dish (I’ve had it a number of times at Roberta & Ted’s for Shabbat), but Chef Chao showed us how to elevate the dish. One cool general cooking technique he suggested was that instead of cutting the broccoli by cutting the head part first, cut it from the stem and then pull it apart, that way you loose less of the leaves! And you make way less of a mess! For this dish, the sauce is pretty simple, just garlic, with a little salt, sugar, soy sauce, and corn starch. We blanched the broccoli first to give it a quick cook, but then stir fried the garlic before adding back the broccoli and the sauce. The end result was amazing. The garlic sauce was super creamy and delicious and we all thought that if you served this in a restaurant, you’d think it must have butter! This will definitely be a go to dish for me!
The second dish we made was the Sichuan cold dressed tofu! I remember seeing similar dishes when Jesse and I (and Tom & Daniele) went to Chengdu, so I was definitely excited. While the preparation for the tofu is simple (it’s just the block of tofu straight from the box – we used silken tofu, which makes for a great canvas for the chili oil), we got to make homemade chili oil again. One of my favorite parts of the cooking classes is getting to eat Chef Chao’s homemade chili oil when we do Sichuan cuisine! While I have the recipe, chili oil is a bit intimidating to make, so I haven’t made it myself yet, and this was a treat. We started with the chili oil featuring a ton of aromatics (Sichuan pepper, bay lief, cardamom, ginger, spring onion, leak, star anise, and cinnamon) and let those fry off in sunflower oil (you want a good neutral oil). Once those were fried, we removed the veggies, added sesame seeds and a copious amounts of red chili flake! While we let that cook, we prepared roasted peanuts and some additional seasonings for our sauce (scallion, garlic, ginger, sugar, soy sauce, and sesame oil). The end result was pretty magical! The tofu is super neutral, so it absorbs all of the heat and deliciousness of the chili oil! And since it’s a cold dish, though spicy, isn’t overly hot!
Lastly, we made Guobao Mushrooms, a vegan spin on a popular Guobao meat dish. We used oyster mushrooms, and the result was fantastic. We started by tearing the mushrooms into smaller pieces (some of the mushrooms were huge!) and then quickly boiled them to remove excess water. Once we wrung out the mushrooms, we added corn starch, flour, and a bit of water to make our breading mixture. We also chopped up leak, carrots, coriander to garnish. The mushrooms themselves were twice fried. I’m always a bit intimidated by the deep fryer (I may try to roast these on high heat in my apartment), but the end result was super crunchy, very light, and crazy delicious! After frying the mushrooms, we quickly cooked our sauce (a mix of soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar – for that sweet & sour kick), and then added it to the mushrooms. It was amazing!
I’m so glad that I’ve had the opportunity to do all of these vegan cooking classes while I’ve been in Beijing and will be able to take a bit of Beijing with me (other than Goldie) when I move to Padova. I’m definitely excited for the next class, but will also really miss having them and will be super envious when they post new photos.
Even More Lunar New Year Displays
Although the actual Lunar New Year holiday started before I posted my last post, the Lantern Festival is still two weeks after, and as such, I did see a few more cool dragon displays. My favorite was this amazing transforming Great Wall Dragon at the old summer palace. I’d seen photos online and arrived all of five minutes before I got to see it transform, which was pretty amazing! Enjoy! (sorry one of the videos is oriented the wrong way!).
I also stopped by the Olympic Park to see the Lunar New Year festivities/displays at the Water Cube/Ice Cube. They had a smaller, but equally cool dragon lantern outside the Cube. You may remember this venue from NBC’s Olympic coverage, but while there is still active swimming and skating at the site, they’ve also converted part of the venue for other activities (that’s where the giant inflatable dragon was). I also got to see a bit of the Olympic history, which was pretty cool! I do wonder how many of the cutesy mascots were added now that it’s a tourist site or if these were all there for the Olympics!
And of course, there were still a few more fun displays that I saw walking around the city!
One Last Grasp of Winter Before Spring
If you read my last blog post, you may remember that I said that Beijing was starting to warm up. Well, two days after posting that, Beijing got a sold 3+ inches of snow, so boy was I wrong! However, Beijing looks really pretty in the snow, so I hope you enjoy seeing some photos of snow covered hutongs and Shichahai Lake!
Also, the Shichahai Dragon is still up and looks pretty in the snow! If you look closely at some of the photos, you can see that people were inside the structure shoveling out the snow!
However, now that we’re in March, I think I can safely say that Spring has arrived. We’ve had three straight 70 degree days and while the temperature will drop to the high-50s/low-60s next week, it really is nice to pack up my winter coat and go running outside without a ton of layers. Beijing and the area where I live looks equally pretty in the spring, too! You can see progressively less and less ice on the lakes (it’s all gone now) and even the early buds on some trees! I can’t wait to share more springtime in Beijing photos with you next month!
Jewish Life in Beijing
Since my last post, we’ve had four lovely weekly Shabbat dinners in Beijing! While we were a smaller crowd most nights (between 10 and 20), we’ve also had visitors from Russia & Germany, as well as a few new community members join us! It’s definitely a highlight of my week and now that Kevin & Sam are back from their Lunar New Year holidays, it’s really nice to co-lead services with other people (and not have to do the weekly d’var every week). While we haven’t had any of Ted’s amazing themed Shabbat dinners post Lunar New Year, I have organized four pretty great Vegetarian Potluck Shabbats! I’ve gotten to share some of my cooking with others (my Dad’s vegetarian meatballs, a quinoa salad, pra ram tofu, sticky sesame cauliflower, and no bake Peanut Butter chocolate bars) and enjoy some really nice meals together! Especially now that I know where I’ll be going (there is a small Jewish community in Padova and a larger one in Venice, about 30 minutes away), I’m definitely feeling more bittersweet and sad about my time in this amazing community coming to an end. This group has really been my home here, especially when I just moved to the city and literally knew nobody and during the worst times of COVID and I can’t imagine my time here without them. I’m sure I’ll say this again, but I’m eternally thankful to Roberta & Ted for fostering such an amazing Jewish community in Beijing.
Goldie
Goldie continues to be my constant companion. While she doesn’t know that we’ll be moving to Italy in June (I’m sure once I start packing, she’ll get curious), she’s been a great help in keeping me motivated (and making sure I’m up early). She’s always super cute and very happy to have me at home. I’m so glad that I adopted her.
Goldie still loves burrowing, but now she’s become a bit of a box cat, too (and she’s even jumped in her new cat carrier – the one for the plane – too! I’m hoping she likes that since she’ll have to spend a pretty miserable day in there when we move)! She also likes playing the box game where she gets to attack my hands, too! Hopefully whatever apartment I find in Padova will give her a couple of windows to explore the world in. I know it’ll be a big challenge for her, but I’m sure she’ll be happy since I’ll be there.
And of course, we had another visitor!
Vegan Food
Between the end of the Lunar New Year break and getting to celebrate a bit for accepting my new postdoc, I got to get some delicious meals with friends. During the Lunar New Year break, I went to In & Out (No, not the burger chain), a Yunnanese restaurant with my friend Andrea from the Vegan community. In & Out isn’t a vegetarian restaurant, but Andrea’s Mandarin is better than mine, so she was able to help us navigate the menu. Yunnan cuisine is known for its use of mushrooms and veggies, so we were not disappointed. We got mint limeade, spicy mushrooms, bamboo rice, Yunnanese tofu, spicy potatoes, eggplant in black bean sauce, mushrooms with asparagus, and fried beans! While I probably won’t get to visit Yunnan before I leave China, I’m glad I got to try the food (I think I also made some in one of the cooking classes, too!).
The last week of my Lunar New Year break, I met up with my friend Miriam from Kehilat Beijing and had a delicious Israeli-style lunch at Toast! It was so nice to catch up with her and hear about her Lunar New Year travels. We got passion fruit soda, muhammara, tabouleh salad, roasted eggplant hummus, and falafel! Although I really enjoy making my own hummus, it’s nice to get some delicious Israeli food (and it’s right near my apartment, which is a major plus!).
Last weekend, Richard and I met up for a delicious lunch at Bestease (AKA Bai Yishushi Lanzhou Stretched noodles), for an amazing vegan meal. We got Asian pear juice, tofu skin rolls (filled with mushrooms), sizzling tofu, seitan with poached chili oil veggies and noodles, and sauteed bamboo. It was a great meal and a great way to catch up a bit with Richard, too!
Additionally, all though not a full blown Vegan Market, two of my friends, Lionel and Alex were at the February Rumble in the Jungle Market selling amazing and delicious vegan pastries. Lionel is an excellent vegan cheese maker and he and Alex partnered to make vegan chocolate truffles, vegan cheesecake, a vegan lemon meringue pie, a vegan apple tart, and a vegan chocolate orange cake. It was all amazing!
As the market was at a restaurant called Side Street, which does a mix of Indian and American food, I got a delicious Gobi Manchurian Cauliflower dish! I also ran into one of the animal rescues that I’ve donated to and they gave me a bunch of goodies (including the vegan carrot cae) and a blanket for Goldie as a thank you for all of my donations (the purple blanket in the photos above)! And there was also this really cool Environmental Education Quiz game about the causes of Global Warming that I got to play! My Dad would’ve really enjoyed that!
I also did a lot of vegan cooking of my own this month (both for myself and for Shabbat). I made gluten free blueberry cookies, a chickpea & spinach soup, roasted veggies and veggie meatballs (for Shabbat), quinoa & black bean chili, quinoa salad (for Shabbat), apple cake, pra ram tofu (for Shabbat), Southwestern Corn Chowder, sticky sesame cauliflower, and no bake peanut butter-chocolate bars (for Shabbat). Also, in walking around the lakes, I had more sugar covered fruits! This time some kind of dried fruit (maybe raisins?) and strawberries!
Exploring Beijing
While you’ve already seen a lot of fun things around the city, especially under the snow, I wanted to highlight that when I was walking to In & Out, I walked right past the Sierra Leone Embassy. As one of my Dad’s favorite students, Joseph Kaifala, is from Sierra Leone, I was keen to take a photo! Beyond that, I did see some other cool posters and subway art (especially the amazing art at the subway station near the Ancient Observatory) around the city that I wanted to share with you all!
Outside the normal signs and displays, when I got lunch with Richard at Bestease, we also got to explore the YuanDadu Chengyuan Ruins Park (as well as the Shichahai). It’s an area I’ve really only been once before, so it was nice to see some place new!
Animals of Beijing
While Goldie is still doing well and enjoys snuggling on all of my sweaters and blankets, the hutong cats are now out in force, especially with the warmer weather. While I was a bit concerned that one of my neighbors cats was out and about during the snowstorm, he/she appears to be doing well and I’ve been trying to feed all of the neighborhood cats that let me when I can!
I also wandered by a new cat cafe near Shichahai with the most amazing array of cats! I definitely need to check it out!
Additionally, with Shabbat at Roberta & Ted’s, I’ve gotten to see my favorite Beijing puppies, Mimi & Honey! They definitely seem to be excited when we have a crowd for Shabbat! And twice, Mich’s cat, Mango, made an appearance. She totally bosses the puppies around!
What Am I Reading/Watching?
In terms of television, this month I finished a few different shows. I finished season 6 of Bosch on Amazon Prime. This season focused on Bosch diving into a cold case surrounding the death of a friend’s daughter, while simultaneously examining the theft of radioactive material that gets tied to an insurrectionist movement. As always, this show is really good and definitely the best of the classic American cop show! I also finished season 2 of The Rising of the Shield Hero, an anime focusing on a human who is transported to a fantasy world to become it’s mystical protector hero. It’s a ton of fun and a great show! I also finished The Staircase on Max and this was the opposite of fun. While a really compelling and interesting show, it’s definitely a depressing story. Colin Firth plays Michael Peterson who is accused on killing his wife (played by Toni Collete). It’s based off a real story and it’s hard to watch the show and not feel like everyone is pretty horrible. While very good television, not very fun. I also finished Blue Eye Samurai on Netflix, which is an animated show that tells the tale of a samurai named Mizu who is half-Japanese and half-European (and is thus viewed as a demon as it is set after Japan has closed itself off to foreigners). It’s a really great show and an interesting contrast to both Shogun and Tokyo Vice, which I’m watching concurrently (I’ll have more on them and a broader look at foreigners in Japan and their depictions in media next time). The show dives into what it means to be both a woman and a person with a disability in 17th Century Japan as well as having some excellent sword play. I highly recommend it!
In terms of reading this month, I haven’t had as much time as I’d like. I’m still working on Andy Weir’s Artemis and really enjoying it (I’ve had too many late nights and not enough time to read).
East Meets West
In terms of signs of the US, this month, Beijing has been flooded with Kung Fu Panda 4! While not a surprise, it is fun to remember that sometimes US movies are popular here! More off the beaten path, there was a poster for some kind of US movie music concert at Tsinghua and I also saw an ad for performances of The Sound of Music in Beijing!
Anime & Comics
And of course, no Astronomer in Beijing post would be complete with out me showing the vast array of anime, manga, and comics paraphernalia that I saw around Beijing. Before I dive into the array of things, I saw, I did want to take a moment to remember Akira Toriyama. For those of you who aren’t aware, Akira Toriyama, the creator of Dragon Ball and Dragon Ball Z, recently passed away from a brain aneurism at age 68. For both Jesse and me, DBZ was the gateway for anime and really inspired our fandom and love for all things manga and comics. I obsessively drew DBZ characters throughout my childhood and I give a huge amount of credit to Akira Toriyama for inspiring my love of drawing. While I don’t want to get into an argument over who is the most influential animator/comic book/manga artist, Toriyama is largely responsible for revolutionizing Shonen manga into what it is today and Dragon Ball Z has been hugely influential among the manga and comic book communities, especially among the generation of comic book artists closer to my age, as well as being one of the first anime that was legally brought over to the US and advertised as a Japanese cartoon without large edits (sorry Pokemon and Astro Boy). This is a huge loss for the comics world as a whole. I’m working on a new Goku sketch that I’ll share with you all next time, but for now, I wanted to share this amazing life-size Goku statue that I saw yesterday, which felt fitting.
This month, I saw a ton of comics, manga, and anime paraphernalia! As you can see, there is a lot of Marvel, Gundam, Dragon Ball Z, Pokemon, and One Piece! While I love seeing stickers, I really like seeing the anime figure displays (I’m sure I’ll miss seeing those as frequently when I’m in Italy). It’s so cool for me to walk around an spot different sectors of my own fandom!
For those of you who’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading my Astronomer in Beijing blog! I hope you enjoyed seeing some more dragon statues, vegan cooking, and other fun sights around Beijing! I hope you’re all as excited for me as I am that my next stop will be in Padova, Italy! If you have any comments, questions, or concerns, please feel free to reach out either directly on the blog or via e-mail! It’d be great to hear from you. We have Purim here next week (Happy Purim to all who celebrate) and while I’ve got a lot of work to do, there is at least one other really awesome thing that I’m planning to do with my fellow postdocs here, so I can’t wait to share it with you. I hope the rest of March and beginning of April is a happy, safe, and healthy month for you all!
As always, thank you so much for returning to my Astronomer in Beijing blog. I hope you’re all doing well and staying safe and healthy! Here in Beijing, the city is still abuzz with Lunar New Year celebrations (check out that cool Astronomy Dragon on the first picture below!). As such, this month’s post will consist of a lot of fun winter/New Year activities. Since it’s the year of the Dragon, there have been a ton of amazing dragons all over Beijing and I hope you enjoy getting to see them! I don’t know if it’s because the dragon is a particularly cool animal in the Chinese zodiac, or more likely that as this is the first Lunar New Year that is 100% post COVID-zero (although Chinese New Year was after COVID-zero ended last year, much of Beijing was still sick), but there are a lot more decorations and festivities around the city this year. As the Chinese academic calendar aligns with the Lunar New Year, Tsinghua has been on vacation, so I’ve primarily been working from home on my research and my job applications. I hope you enjoy hearing about what I’ve been up to below!
Ice Skating at Shichahai
Although we just enjoyed an unseasonably warm week in the 40s and 50s, at the beginning of February, Pablo, Tom, and I met up to go ice skating at Shichahai! As some of you may remember, last year, Jesse and I went ice skating when he visited and it was a ton of fun and it didn’t disappoint a second time. As I’ve shown in some photos, the Shichahai lakes (Houhai and Qianhai) freeze over in the winter (though not entirely – see the ducks) and the city sets up both traditional ice skating and a more raucous and fun section featuring ice bikes, slides, & chairs.
Because this ice is never resurfaced and we were going toward the end of the season (and the fact that I’ve yet to find shoes in my size, so I’m not optimistic about skates), we went with the ice bikes! Tom, Pablo (he preferred navigating his ice chair with the ski poles), and I had an amazing time! We skated around for over an hour doing laps around the lake, spinning, and at one point looking for Tom’s GoPro camera (thankfully someone picked it up and brought it to the lost and found). As I hope the pictures show, the bikes work like a normal bike, except there is only a back wheel, so a bit more like a snow mobile, and the bikes sort of dig into the ice in the front. It’s a ton of fun and a really great workout!
And here you can see some videos I took of me on the ice bike!
This year, since there were three of us, Tom, Pablo, and I even tried a three person dragon sled (that’s what Pablo is sitting on in the photo below and we’re all sitting on in the selfie above)! While it was cartoonishly funny, we’re definitely a bit too tall to make it speed around the ice! They also had some cool Minions-themed sleds (Minions is crazy popular) and even some automated sleds with stuffed animal dogs to look like sled dogs.
Ironically, like last year, we went on the last day of skating for the year. While the lakes are still mostly iced over now, it’s clearly not thick enough to allow skating (it’s been in the 50s this week, I wouldn’t want to skate on a lake anyway). Since I won’t be in Beijing next winter, I’m so glad I got to go skating again this year!
A Lantern Dragon at Shichahai!
As we are now entering the year of the Dragon, Beijing is filled to the brim with Dragon sculptures and displays. One of the coolest ones just happens to be in my backyard, at the Qianhai lake (part of Shichahai). Chinese lanterns are one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen and I hope you enjoy this one! Here are a few pictures I took yesterday during the day.
And now, at night, you can see the dragon in all of its magnificence! I was always super envious of Jesse getting to see the amazing displays at the Yu Gardens, so I’m so glad they did this this year! It’s so cool! There’s something truly magical about these lantern displays, especially at Qianhai, with how the lights reflect off the water.
Lunar New Year at the Drum Tower
Although not as ornate as the dragon lantern at Shichahai, the Drum Tower also got in on the Year of the Dragon festivities! You can see a few photos of their display as well as some great views of both the Bell and Drum Tower and Beijing!
A Very LEGO Lunar New Year
Another, slightly more commercial, but really cool display that I saw was at TaiKoo Li in Sanlitun, the commercial area of Beijing with a ton of foreign businesses. Here, LEGO set up an amazing gigantic LEGO-style display (they looked like blown up LEGOs) to celebrate the Lunar New Year. Pablo and I visited last weekend and we both thought it looked amazing! You can see dragon dancers and other fun aspects of the Lunar New Year!
Ditan Park Temple Fair
This past Thursday, Pablo, Tom, and I went to the Ditan Park Temple Fair. Temple fairs are a staple of Beijing’s Lunar New Year celebrations and Ditan Park’s fair is one of the longest running and best. However, because of COVID restrictions the last three years, this is the first time they’ve had it since I arrived. I think the best way I can describe a Temple Fair is if you combined Christmas, the 4th of July, and a county fair all in one! There were massive displays highlighting dragon mascots (and more ornate, traditional-style dragons), lots of shopping, street food, and games. I’ve been excited to get to go for a while now, especially since Ditan Park is only about 2 miles from my apartment! I took a ton of photos, so I’ve broken it down into different smaller sections. Here’s what you see when you walk into the park (at least from the entrance we went through – there are 4 entrances – the park is a rectangle) and the bright red dragon mascot!
One of the first things that we heard (and then saw) was a fun dance performance on stilts! I don’t know if the dancers are community volunteers, school groups, or some other kind of social group, but they definitely were having fun! I’ve never seen so much motion on stilts outside of a circus!
The main thoroughfare of Ditan Park is converted into an amazing open air market featuring tons of Lunar New Year gifts (see all of the cutesy dragons), twirling fans (a traditional Chinese gift for kids – I joked with Pablo and Tom that this is the traditional Chinese equivalent of giving kids those glow stick necklaces), lanterns, and other decorations! Since red is the color of prosperity, it makes sense that all of the decorations match! In case any of you are wondering, yes I did buy a few gifts for me and some friends (though at this point, I probably won’t put them up in my apartment). Although I’m not showing a ton of it here, they did also have tons of street food! While the vegan options were limited (most street food is meat skewers or baozi/jaozi that aren’t vegetarian), Tom did track down some fried tofu and was able to ask if it was vegetarian (THANKS TOM!!!)! I also got a few of my favorite sugar covered fruits (but I’ll show those in the Vegan food section). As you can see, we went on Day 5 (of 6) of the Temple Fair and it was PACKED!
When we entered the park, we saw tons of people walking around with GIANT stuffed animals, so we were keen to take a look at the games. While some were pretty different (throwing coins on a glass table and getting them to land on a circle), there were a few familiar ones (balloon darts & basketball), as well as some more games of luck (pulling random strings to win a plushie or cracking a golden egg with a hammer – we all did this, I won a little bootleg Spider-man plushie). It definitely brought back memories of county fairs and Fantasy Island in Buffalo (no squirt gun game though).
Beyond shopping, eating, and playing games, we also stumbled into an amazing acrobatics performance. While my photos probably don’t do it justice, these students were flying through the air doing the most acrobatic jumps and spinning on poles! It was pretty spectacular and definitely my favorite!
Beyond that, there are a ton of other fun things that we saw at the Ditan Park Temple Fair (some of which are part of the park all of the time – Ditan Park hosts the Temple of Earth)! I hope you like seeing all of the photos!!! They had a display on the history of the Temple Fair, too! While the displays were all in Mandarin, they did have photos of all of the previous mascots, that I thought were pretty spectacular!
Exploring Beijing – Happy Lunar New Year Edition!
As I mentioned, there are so many other displays that I saw that I wanted to highlight those, too! To start, the giant Mecha Panda near Wangjing South Subway station (both the closest station to 798 and to Roberta & Ted’s home) got into the Year of the Dragon festivities in epic style!
Additionally, when I got lunch with Pablo and Tom after going skating, we went to Wudaying Hutong (to get a delicious bowl of noodles at Yebozhai) and saw tons of cool smaller displays, including some really cool Dragon Ball Z themed year of the Dragon stickers (and yes, I already ordered them).
And of course, I’ve seen tons of cool door hangings and other displays all around Beijing!
I also saw lots of cute and fun statues, toys, and candy for the Year of the Dragon! In case any of you are wondering what all of the little brightly colored rabbits are and why they are out during Year of the Dragon celebrations (about halfway through this image block), they are not actually from the previous year. They are a deity protector of Beijing called Tu’er Yu! And given the new year, they tend to pop-up over Beijing, too!
Life at Tsinghua – Astronomy Update
As I said at the start of this post, I spent much of this month working from home since Tsinghua is on winter break. I want to stress, that when I say Tsinghua was on break, I do not mean me. I’ve been busy as ever working on Project Low-Z and Project Morphology, as well as actively applying for jobs. On the job front, I’ve currently applied to 65 positions, which seems insane. I’ve had multiple interviews, and while I don’t have anything definitive to tell you all yet, I do have some positive inklings that I’ll hopefully be able to share next month. On the job front, I do want to say that if any of you find yourself hiring any kind of position, I can’t tell you how frustrating it is to never hear back from an employer. A simple rejection e-mail when you don’t make the short list, regardless of how disappointing that may be, is really appreciated. Also, if you offer the job to someone else, it’s really nice to be kept informed, even if it’s just to say, that you aren’t the first choice, but should the person turn the job down, you are still very much being considered. The job process is incredibly stressful and any little thing helps.
On the research front, the data crunching that has taken up almost all of my time with Project Low-Z, my study of local universe galaxy clusters hosting bent radio AGNs that I’m working on with Jesse, is DONE! This means that I should have preliminary plots this week and I’m excited to put this paper together and see what we find! As for Project Morphology, my study of the morphology-density relation in high-z protoclusters, I’m making steady progress, but I’m hoping to make some real headway this week. Fingers crossed for a productive week and that I’ll have started to write up both of these projects by my next post. I’m also starting work on my first project as part of the C3VO collaboration with my friend Brian Lemaux! It builds off of my work with Project Morphology and it’s really great to be part of such an active collaboration.
Jewish Life in Beijing
This month, Kehillat Beijing had three Shabbats (we were off for Lunar New Year), and they were three very different Shabbats. At the end of January, instead of a traditional Shabbat, we went to a musical performance at the Italian Embassy in honor of International Holocaust Remembrance Day. The music was beautiful and it was all composed by Italian-Jewish composers.
Then, in the first week in February, we had an amazing Lunar New Year Shabbat (featuring an super cute Dragon challah that Roberta made). Roberta & Ted’s Ayi cooked an amazing Vegetarian feast with lots of dragon influences (look at that cucumber). I really love the Jewish community here and it was so nice to have such a large group.
Lastly, we had an amazing potluck Shabbat this past week (we’ll be doing potlucks for the next month or so). I made roasted potatoes & peanut butter tofu! All of the food was delicious. I am in charge of coordinating everything (leading the service and making sure people could sign up to bring things), so it was a bit tiring on my end, but also a lot of fun. I wasn’t sure how many people would come since the official Lunar New Year holiday was still going on, but I’m so pleased we got such a great turnout! I’m so thankful that Roberta & Ted continue to open their home to all of us and that we have a place to call home here in Beijing.
Vegan Food!
Although I’ve been busy working on research, applying for jobs, and prepping for interviews, I have had some delicious vegan meals in the interim. In late January, I returned to the DuLi pop-up at Ori and had a delicious meal with Tom (Tom had been to DuLi when he visited Shanghai, so he was keen to go to the pop-up). We got apple tea, mapo tofu hummus, quinoa salad, scallion pesto pasta, chickpea bao sliders, and tiramisu! DuLi is one my favorite restaurants in Shanghai and I’m very excited that they are doing another pop-up in Beijing in March! The mapo tofu hummus and the bao were my favorites! The tiramisu was also amazing!
After our ice skating adventure, Tom, Pablo, and I went for a late lunch at Yebozhai! Although they only had a limited menu since we got there pretty late, we had a delicious meal! We got ginger juice (boy, did that have a kick), Sichuan noodles, spring rolls, and a slightly sweet pancake.
Just before Lunar New Year, Pablo and I went to Tianchu Miaoxiang near Tsinghua for a delicious vegan lunch. We got stir-fried caulilower, passion fruit juice, kung pao chick’n, sauteed bamboo and okra, grilled matsutake mushrooms, and roasted taro with woody mushrooms! I really loved all of the mushroom dishes!
This, this past Thursday, my friend Andrea organized an amazing Vegans of Beijing dinner at Blossom vegetarian! There were 11 of us, so we got to try a bunch of delicious dishes! We got spicy cold mushrooms, tofu with Chinese pancakes, veggie ribs, quinoa salad, sauteed mushrooms, avocado & hawthorn jelly, sizzling potato & veggie balls, cauliflower dry pot, mushrooms & edamame, sauteed vegetarian duck (tofu skins), spicy vegetarian mock fish, and crispy stuffed pancakes. It was a delicious meal and a wonderful evening with the Beijing vegan community!
Although not a full meal, I also enjoyed some street food this month (a fair amount at the Ditan Park Temple Fair). Obviously, my favorites are the sugar covered strawberries, but I also got sugar covered blueberries, which were delicious! I also got a sugar covered mix fruit (and yes, the first piece is a cherry tomato, which was …. weird – here in China, cherry tomatoes are treated as a fruit, so it’s not to surprising, but still odd to me – the other fruits were great, but strawberries are my favorite), as well as grilled corn, and a spicy Sichuan tofu (thanks again Tom!)!
Despite the amazing meals that I had, I also did some cooking of my own! I made a delicious lentil stew, tomato soup, cauliflower chili, and mushroom enchilada soup! I also made mapo tofu for Lunar New Year, and some delicious apple pie cookies!
Goldie!!!!
While this was a less eventful month for Goldie since she didn’t need to go to the vet (I did get her titre test results – checking the level of her rabies antibodies and they were excellent), she certainly enjoyed having me at home and getting to spend the day on the couch next to me. She was very well behaved during my interviews (she slept and didn’t jump on my desk), and has enjoyed doing lots of burrowing, napping, and playing in new boxes (she has a new favorite, which is unfortunately already falling apart, but I guess I’ll hang on to it until I need to leave). I’m so thankful to have Goldie in my life and help keep me sane during all of this stress.
Also, we had a bit of excitement when one of the big neighborhood cats decided to hangout on the skylight. While I never know if Goldie is trying to get their attention or being territorial, I’m always amazed at how quickly she spots the cats and seems to sense their presence.
Exploring Beijing (Everything Else)!
As I did a fair amount of exploring this month, I also saw a lot of fun non-Lunar New Year related bike decals and other fun stickers!
I also saw a lot of other cool statues and displays (and a painter!) around Beijing this month! I love all of these fun, cartoony statues! Enjoy!
China Drawings
While I was busy with research and job applications, I did finish up another drawing! Let me know what you think!
Animals of Beijing
As the weather has started to warm up, the street cats have been out in force, particularly my neighbors cats. Since it’s still not super warm, I’ve been doing my best to give them a bit of food when I see them just to make sure they’re ok. They all seem to be doing fine, but are always thankful for the food! I even got a thumbs up from a neighborhood worker after he saw me feeding them. I also got to see my favorite puppies in Beijing, Mimi & Honey (Roberta & Ted’s dogs), who always enjoy the Shabbat company!
What Am I Reading/Watching?
While I’m still reading Andy Weir’s Artemis (it’s really great), I did read a few great graphic novels. I read When I Grow Up by Ken Krimstein, which is a graphic adaptation of a number of stories written by Jewish teens in Lithuania pre-WWII for a letter writing contest for a Yiddish Language newspaper. The letters survived the Holocaust by being hidden in a church and the stories were both beautiful and tragic since you knew what was coming next. On the more traditional comics, I read Mark Waid & Leinil Franics Yu’s Superman: Birthright, a fantastic retelling of Superman’s early years and origins. Mark Waid really understands the core tenets of Superman and this is an excellent example of that (as is his current World’s Finest series with Dan Mora). I also read The Mighty by Peter Tomasi, Keith Champagne, Peter Snejberg, and Chris Samnee. Another excellent graphic novel, this is a unique look at a Superman-esque character who might not be the boy scout he appears to be. On the manga front, I also finished reading Hoshin Engi by Ryu Fujisaki. This is a tale of a mythic-history of ancient China featuring Gods and immortals as they wage war for the future of the Human world. I really enjoyed it!
On the TV front, I finished a few different shows this month. Early this month, I finished Bosch season 5, which is the next installment in the long running Amazon Prime saga of Detective Harry Bosch in the LAPD. This season focused on Bosch going undercover to bust a drug smuggling ring, while at the same time having his career under threat from the reopening of an investigation early in his career. It’s a great show and I’m glad I still have a few more seasons! I also finished Fargo season 5 on FX. While it was a bit weird at times, this was really a tour-de-force by Juno Temple, who played Dorothy Lyon, a woman who ran away from her abusive husband (played by Jon Hamm) to fight for a better life. Both Temple and Hamm were fantastic. I really enjoyed this season! I also finished the first season of the animated show Scavengers Reign on Max, about a group of space travelers who are stranded on a hostile world when their shipping vessel crash lands. It was a unique psychological examination of grief and hardship, with some very unique animation. I also finished watching Celebrity Jeopardy on ABC. While I was rooting for Katie Nolan (I’ve enjoyed Katie Nolan’s work on various sports podcasts I listen to, especially her post game commentary on Pablo Torre Finds Out), it was nice to watch Jeopardy again! It’s hard to watch the daily episodes here, but ABC streams Celebrity Jeopardy, which. is always a plus for me! I also finished the Full Circle on Max, which was a weird show. It’s directed by Steven Soderberg and although it features an all-star cast, it just didn’t come together for me. On the anime front, I finished three great shows! I finished season 3 of Dr. Stone, which is about a world where humans were turned to stone for thousands of years and the ramifications of human reawakening in the stone world. It’s a fun mix of science and adventure! One of the anime’s that I was most excited for this year was Pluto, which is based off the manga by Naoki Urasawa (a modern master), which itself is based on the world’s strongest robot arc from Astro Boy! Pluto is basically a modern and more sophisticated retelling of one of the best Astro Boy arcs and the manga is one of my favorites. Thankfully, the anime (available on Netflix) does the manga justice and expertly portrays the feelings of grief and the terrors of war in this human and robot society. I highly recommend it! I also finished the anime Katsugeki/Touken Ranbu, which is based on the Touken Ranbu video games, in which the spirits of swords gain human forms and must travel through history protecting the timeline of Japanese history. It was another great show!
East Meets West
Of course with all my explorations of Beijing I saw a lot of examples of American pop culture and iconography, including some fun Peanuts t-shirts at Uniqlo, Simpsons graffiti, and lots of Disney & Minions. Especially at the Ditan Park Temple Fair, I was surprised to see some many stuffed animals of Stitch, Garfield, Pink Panther, and other American characters (there were a ton of other ones I didn’t recognize, too)!
Anime & Comics
As always, no Astronomy in Beijing post is complete without a full recounting of all of the anime, manga, and comics paraphernalia that I saw this month! And boy, did I see a lot! Between a slew of cool new Bleach, Hunter X Hunter, and Naruto shirts at Uniqlo, One Piece stickers, Marvel & DC figurines (yes, I already bought those cute little DC kids pops), and lots of Dragonball Z and Pokemon figures, it was a very anime & comics-filled month!
As always, if you made it this far, I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my blog. Thank you so much for all of your support. I hope you liked all of the photos of the numerous New Years decorations and displays! Let me know what your favorites were! As always it is wonderful to hear from you, so if you have any comments, questions, or concerns, please either reply below or reach out directly. This next month will see the beginning of my last academic semester in China and while it’ll be the start of the end, I also hope to make a lot of headway finishing up two of my major projects that I’ve worked on here in China. I hope that the rest of February and the start of March is a good month for everyone! See you next time!
Thank you again for returning to my Astronomer in Beijing Blog. I hope you’re all doing well, staying safe and healthy, and enjoying the start of 2024. Here in China, January is always a bit of a weird month (at least for me) because obviously it’s the beginning of a new calendar year, but because of the Chinese academic calendar, it’s also the end of the semester (Tsinghua’s semester ends on Wednesday) and the start of the Lunar New Year season (this year will be the year of the dragon). So it doesn’t really fell quite like a new year yet until all of the Lunar New Year decorations are up (you’ll get a taste of a little in this month’s post). In case you’re wondering, New Year’s in Beijing (at least mine) was pretty anticlimactic. Since there are no fireworks allowed in the inner five rings of Beijing (Beijing is a ring city, and I live in the 2nd ring, Tsinghua is in the 4th, so that’s a pretty large area), the clock just changes without much fanfare. I did have a nice meal with some of the other postdocs I know on the 30th, but definitely not the most festive New Years. This will also be a shorter post since I’ve mostly been working on postdoc applications since my December blog post, but I did find time to do a few fun things and have some good meals, so I hope you enjoy hearing about it!
Vegans of Beijing Cooking Class – Handmade Noodles with Mushroom Broth
Last week at the January Vegans of Beijing Cooking Class with Chef Chao, I got to learn how to make handmade noodles! Although I’ve made pasta before (shoutout to my friend and fellow Tsinghua Astronomy postdoc Daniele for making pasta with us last winter), it was really exciting to learn to make my own noodles! I’ve really enjoyed all of the noodle dishes here in China, so it was cool to see how they differ from their Italian counterpart. At this month’s class, we made a mushroom noodle soup, combining two of my favorite foods! Before we made the noodles, we started with an appetizer of vinegar peanuts. Because we needed the peanuts to cool off after frying, we started cooking them first. We started with raw peanuts and after washing them, we fried them in a decent amount of oil, allowing them to brown (I accidentally burnt mine the first time, so I had to do it twice). For the vinegar, we mixed Chinese black vinegar with soy sauce, garlic and chili. Once the peanuts were cool, we slathered the sauce over the peanuts, creating a very tasty dish!
After whetting our cooking appetite with the peanuts, we got to work with the main thrust of the class, which was making noodles! If you’ve never made noodles by hand (and I mean entirely by hand, the only equipment we used was a cutting board, bowl, chop stick to stir the flour, and cleaver to cut the noodles), it’s really tough and incredibly tiring! For the dough, we only used two ingredients, flour and water. However, unlike the jiaozi we made last month, the ratios were different, so the amount of time we needed to spend kneading the dough increased dramatically! We must have spent a good 30 minutes kneading the dough. While you start out mixing it with your chopsticks, once the dough gets more of a gummy-dough-like consistency, you just continuously fold it and flatten in until, eventually, you have a sleek looking dough ball (my wrists were very tired from pressing the dough into the cutting board). While we let the dough rest before rolling it out and cutting the noodles, we prepared our mushroom soup (though we waited to cook the soup until the noodles were made). For this, we used two different types of dried mushrooms (dried shiitake and a long twig-like dried mushroom called congcaohua). Interestingly (and deliciously), we used the mushroom water (what the mushrooms had been soaking in) as our broth for the extra mushroom punch! To that, we added baby bok choy, coriander, and ginger. For the veggies, we first sauteed the mushrooms, ginger, and coriander before adding the mushroom water for our rich broth. Once that was ready, we were back to the noodles! After all of the kneading and then rolling, I can definitely see why people use pasta makers. It’s really hard to roll out a ball of dough and get it uniform and super thin! Chef Chao did an excellent job of showing us what to do, but it did feel like we were rolling forever. After rolling the dough well beyond the size of the cutting board, it was finally thin enough to cut. Once it was, we added flour to the dough, we rolled the dough (but much wider this time, creating a layered dough that was easier to cut. As Chef Chao showed us, we could then put our fingers between the dough and get all of the noodles separated in one shot (I was not able to do this). After the noodles were cut, we boiled them and our bok choy and added them to our soup! The final meal was delicious! This was definitely another amazing cooking class and I cannot wait for the next one (though it probably won’t be until March given the Lunar New Year Holiday). I’m definitely excited to make noodles again, though I can’t imagine making a full meal of noodles for multiple people, one portion was challenging enough!
Life At Tsinghua/Astronomy Update
Like last month’s post, most of my Astronomy work has been spent continuing to apply for postdocs. As of today, I’ve applied to 58 positions in either the US, Europe, or Canada. At this point, I’m definitely feeling the exhaustion from just reading my own cover letters and research statement. I will note that I have had interviews for positions, so this is not a scream into the void and hear nothing back endeavor, but I still have yet to hear from over 50% of the positions I applied to and outside of what is posted on the Astronomy Rumor Mill (yes, there is a message board where people ask if anyone knows the job status of different positions – both for postdoc and for faculty jobs), I have no idea where those jobs are in the hiring process. I’m definitely a bundle of nerves when it comes to all of this, especially since I know that I’ll be leaving China at the end of June and I would really like to know where I’m going next.
Beyond the job front, I have had a little bit of time (and should have some more time over the Lunar New Year holiday) to do actual science. I am continuing to chip away at Project Low-Z, my study of bent radio AGNs in local universe galaxy clusters with Jesse. I think there’s a real chance that the science should be wrapped up sometime in the next couple of weeks. I also had some really good conversations about Project Morphology with my collaborators and have a very clear game plan of what else I am planning to do for that project so that I can attempt to wrap that paper up over the break as well (although I’ll definitely try to sleep in a bit – or as much as Goldie will let me – I’ll be working during the break).
Outside of that, the Astronomy Department also had it’s annual year end meeting. While there were no fun activities this year (two years ago, my supervisor, Zheng, played the guitar, and last year, I sang), I thought I’d share a few pictures from the event since the room was decked out for Lunar New Year.
Jewish Life in Beijing
Since my last blog post, we’ve had four amazing Shabbat’s here in Beijing. While the crowds have been lower (between the Western Holidays and the upcoming Lunar New Year, there is definitely a contingent of people who are traveling), I’ve really enjoyed the services! I had the opportunity to lead/co-lead three of the services and give three d’var torahs! Although I’m not a biblical scholar, I’ve enjoyed reading through the torah portion (especially since we were in the Joseph story and now the Passover story) and telling the community about my thoughts and having discussions. In terms of the dinners, Ted continues to spoil us with amazing meals! This month, we had a New Years’ Shabbat, two fun Shabbats celebrating historic events on the day (the 5th and 19th – really look at the food names, Ted is super creative), and Berber New Year Shabbat!
Goldie!!!
As my time in China is slowly coming to a close, this was another important month for Goldie. On Monday, she got her titre test done, which will test the rabies vaccine antibodies in her blood and allow her to travel with me wherever I go next. While she doesn’t like being in the cat backpack at all – she basically meowed the whole cab ride to the vet (I’m going to order the cat carrier for the plane this week so that she can get used to it), she did do her part at the vet and hopefully all the results will come back positively. Outside of that, Goldie has been a great help to me this month. She’s constantly keeping me company when I work in my living room, which is really nice, and she’s been well behaved during my interviews – she’s just napped on the couch. Goldie’s also been enjoying her burrowing and recently has been enjoying crawling under the covers in the morning (I think the cold Beijing weather helps).
Goldie also had two more visitors this month and each time, she seemed very interested in their attention. Interestingly, when we were at the vet, there was a cat lounging on the couch next to her (she was in the pet backpack) while this cat was not, and although the other cat was interested in sniffing the backpack, Goldie didn’t seem to notice (maybe she was too stressed out being in the backpack).
Exploring Beijing – Lunar New Year Decorations & Other Fun Things
As I mentioned at the top of this blog post, the Lunar New Years decorations are starting to creep out in Beijing. While I’m sure the next (and possibly next two) blog posts will include even more photos of decorations, I thought you’d enjoy seeing these ones!
Also, in going around Beijing this month, I also saw a number of other cool signs, bike blankets, and went to a very fun cafe with some of the quirkiest decorations I’ve ever seen (the last eight photos). Enjoy!
Vegan Food
As I mentioned, on December 30th, in honor of New Years, I went to Bottega, an award winning pizzeria here in Beijing (it was rated the second best pizzeria in all of Asia – including Australia) with some of the other Astronomy postdocs. While they don’t have vegan cheese, they do offer a vegan pie (it’s basically just sauce and crust with some garlic and oil, but it was delicious!
While I didn’t go out to eat a ton this month, I did have two fantastic meals with my fellow Astronomy postdocs. On Sunday, we went to Fuhui Ciyuan, the vegetarian restaurant near the Forbidden City (and my favorite restaurant in Beijing) for Richard’s birthday. Because there were 7 of us, we were able to get some delicious dishes! It was so good! We got jasmine tea, papaya juice, crispy mushrooms, shredded tofu skin veggie chick’n, mustard mushrooms, vegetarian mock eel, spicy vegetarian fish, bok choy, crispy eggplant, veggie balls, spinach & toon pancake, and fried rice!
Also, after the end of year meeting on Friday, we went out to lunch at BRBR, the Syrian restaurant near Tsinghua. While I really like Chinese food, I also love a good hummus, so it’s always wonderful to get to eat some that somebody else made! I got a lemon mint juice, Arabic tea, hummus, babaganoush, tabouleh, & falafel.
Of course, I also did some of my own vegan cooking this month. I made a mushroom & rice soup, tomato soup, and a pinto bean soup! I also made some delicious dandan noodles!
China Drawings
While I haven’t had a ton of time to draw these past few months, I did finally finish a drawing that I’ve been working on the last few months (mostly finishing up the inking). Let me know what you think!
Animals of Beijing
While Goldie is my favorite cat, I also saw a number of other cats in the neighborhood (as well as the cat at the vet). I’m definitely a bit concerned that I still see so many cats outdoors as it’s still quite cold in Beijing (though not as cold as early December). When I can, I try to give them snacks if they’ll let me. I know some of them live in my neighbor’s apartment, so I hope they all have some place warm to stay. And of course, I got to see my favorite puppies in Beijing (Roberta and Ted’s dogs Mimi & Honey)! Also, I finally was able to capture a photo of the blue birds that are all over Beijing (see the last photo)!
What am I Reading/Watching?
While I was busy working on applications, I did finish a few different TV shows this month. Just before New Years, I finished season 3 of Slow Horses on Apple TV+. For those of you who are unfamiliar, Gary Oldman stars as Jackson Lamb, a jaded, alcoholic MI5 agent who leads the team of rejects from Slough House in investigating matters of the state. It’s a very witty spy drama with a lot of action and political intrigue (this season had a lot of political intrigue). I highly recommend it! I also finished watching Lego Masters Season 3 on Fox. Lego Masters is basically the cooking competition of Lego. It’s a fun show and it’s always really cool to see the amazing displays that people build. I also finished watching season 4 of For All Mankind (also on Apple TV+). For my money, For All Mankind might be the best show I’m watching now. It’s an alternate history space race, where season 1 kicks off with the Soviets getting to the moon first and everything spins from there. While season 1 starts in the 1960s, we’ve now progressed to the 2000s, where the protagonist, Ed Baldwin (still played by Joel Kinnaman via the power of makeup) is now in his 60s/70s and is the old man on the Martian station (yes, we have people on Mars! – And also JWST way earlier, too). This season focuses a lot on the workers on the Martian station (note workers are not necessarily astronauts) and the difficulties of life on Mars, as well as continuing to excellently balance the US-USSR political intrigue (in this history, the USSR has not fallen). I won’t spoil the end, since it’s pretty dramatic, but the show really does an amazing job portraying what could have been with space travel! I can’t wait for the next season. I also finished watching season 2 of Reacher on Amazon Prime! For those of you unfamiliar, Reacher is an action show adapting Lee Child’s novels and starring Alan Ritchson as the titular character, an ex-Army police officer. In this season, we see more of Reacher’s own brand of violent justice, this time joined by his former army team, the Special Investigators, as they work to uncover details on the mysterious deaths of two of their own. It’s a little over the top at times, but I definitely recommend it! This month, I also finished watching Batman: The Brave and the Bold, the last of the major Batman Animated series that I was watching/re-watching. I had not watched this when it originally aired and while at times it was a bit more Adam West-style camp, it was definitely a love letter to silver age comics and really fun! I also FINALLY finished Attack on Titan! For the non-anime fans, I say finally because the 4th season was broken into 3 parts, with the first part airing in December 2020 and the last part airing in January 2024 – so yeah, definitely some creative licensing when it comes to what is/isn’t a season. However, I loved the end! I know it’s controversial among anime circles, but I liked seeing a justification (even if it’s a strange one) for Eren Yeager’s actions and I liked getting a sense of closure for the characters and the world. I think having the conclusion basically be a 1.5 hour movie actually worked really well for building the tension and setting up the stakes! Also, on New Year’s, I watched Blue Beetle, the DC movie that came out in August (but didn’t get a Chinese release). While it’s not a perfect film (there were some changes from the comics I didn’t love), it was overall a really fun movie! I thought Xolo Mariduena was great as Jaime Reyes (the new Blue Beetle) and I really liked how they showed the scarab and his powers. It was a very fun film and I definitely recommend it!
On the reading front, I just started reading Artemis, Andy Weir’s second novel. It’s definitely hard sci-fi and although I’m not too far into it, I’m really enjoying it! I also finished reading volumes 7 & 8 of the Hilo series by Judd Winick! I have to applaud the transition from Hilo as the main character to a secondary character and the elevation of Gina as the main character. I think it allows the story to evolve and I’m excited to see more!
East Meets West
While much of the signs of the west that I saw this month were in the form of Christmas trees and Christmas decorations, I also saw a few examples of Disney, Spongebob, Toy Story, and Tom & Jerry, as well as the most interesting bag of Alvin & the Chipmunk snacks in the grocery store near me!
Anime & Comics
And of course, no Astronomy in Beijing post would be complete without showing what anime, manga, and comics paraphernalia that I saw. While I didn’t see as much, I did see some fun Batman, Mario, Doraemon, Pokemon, and Spiderman bike gear. I also saw a cool Evangelion jacket, as well as Dragon Ball Z & Shin-Chan figurines!
However, by far, the coolest anime-adjacent display I saw was at the Qinghuadonluxikou subway station (the station closest to Tsinghua’s campus), where it was taken over by advertisements for a new Tencent game that was definitely styled after anime! I’m not sure what the game is about or how to play, but the character designs are really cool!
As always, if you got this far, thank you so much for reading my Astronomer in Beijing blog. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please feel free to write me either below or directly. It’d be great to hear from you. It’ll be the Lunar New Year next month here and while I don’t know what I’ll do to celebrate (though I do know I have a few more postdoc applications to submit), I’ll be sure to show you next time! Stay safe and healthy! I hope you all have a fantastic rest of January and a good start to February.
Happy Holidays! Welcome back to my Astronomer in Beijing Blog. I hope you’re all doing well, staying safe and healthy, and enjoying the holiday season. For those of your who celebrate Channukkah, I hope you all had a wonderful festival of lights and despite the challenging times were able to congregate with friends and family to celebrate, spin a dreidel, sings some songs, and eat some latkes & apple sauce. For those of you who celebrate Christmas, I hope you have a very Merry Christmas! Having spent a third Thanksgiving and holiday season away from family, I hope those of you who are able to celebrate with family enjoy it and realize how special that is. Give your loved ones a big hug for me. Here in Beijing, winter is in full swing, with record cold temperatures for December (we’ve had highs in the teens and wind chills below freezing pretty constantly for the last two weeks). Despite the cold weather, life continues on in Beijing. You might be thinking that the semester must be close to wrapping up, but because Tsinghua follows the Chinese calendar, the semester won’t end for another month. As expected, most of my time has been spent applying for postdocs (I’ll update you more on that below), but I did have time to do a few fun things (though there were long stretches of near-constant work and most of the fun things have been in the last week).
A Very Vegans of Beijing Thanksgiving and a Thanksgiving Shabbat!
Though it feels like longer than 5 weeks ago, the week after my last blog post, was Thanksgiving! As Thanksgiving is a very American holiday, I’m always grateful that I can do anything to celebrate Thanksgiving. Here in Beijing, a lot of the Western-style restaurants and pubs host Thanksgiving dinners and this year, Vegans of Beijing partnered with Arrow Factory to have a marvelous Vegan Thanksgiving meal. Arrow is a British style pub and although they offered both a traditional Omnivore Thanksgiving and a Vegan Thanksgiving meal, they actually sold 3x more Vegan meals! Since it’s always more fun to celebrate Thanksgiving with friends, Pablo, Daniele, Richard, and Tom all joined me at the Vegans of Beijing community dinner, which was really nice! It was their first Thanksgiving and I think they got a pretty representative meal. We had an eggplant, lentil, and mushroom duxelle wellington; sage and onion stuffing; omnipork (a vegan fake meat brand) sausage stuffing; mashed potatoes; sweet potato fries; green bean casserole; torched sweet corn; cranberry sauce; vegan gravy; and vegan apple pie!
The following night, Kehillat Beijing did it’s own Thanksgiving Shabbat, so I got to celebrate twice! Ted went all out with an amazing array of foods featuring just about every Thanksgiving food I can think of (at least all of the vegetarian ones). Since I couldn’t be with my own family (my parents did get to go visit Jesse in Nottingham for Thanksgiving), it was really nice to celebrate with the two expat communities that I’m a part of here in Beijing (though the seitan “ducks” that Ted got looked a bit too real for me).
Happy Channukkah from Beijing (featuring Shabbatukkah!)!
After last year, where any and all Channukkah festivities were cancelled due to the wave of COVID cases that emerged after the removal of COVID Zero, it was so nice to get to celebrate as a community this year. Because Channukkah started on a Thursday, on December 8, the second night of Channukkah, we had an amazing Shabbatukkah Channukkah Shabbat at Kehillat Beijing. Featuring lots of latkes and other Jewish foods (matzo ball soup, rugelach, kugel). This was the biggest Shabbat we’ve had in quite some time (there were ~ 40 people). To make the night even more festive, we had community members play Channukkah music as part of a sing-a-long after the meal! It was a ton of fun and so nice to hear everyone singing together.
Outside of Shabbatukkah, I also did a little celebrating of my own. You can see I was able to get candles from Chabad (thank you again Chabad of Beijing – without them, I’d have needed to buy a whole lot of birthday candles) and light the lights on my own (including two near midnight-candle lightings due to some very late nights working on applications). I did make latkes and homemade apple sauce (using my Mom’s recipe). Since I couldn’t be home, it was nice to have that little taste of home for the holidays. Also, I must say, Goldie was really fascinated by the flames this year!
Although Channukkah only lasts 8 days, we extended the celebration in Beijing with a Moishe House Channukkah party. For those of you unfamiliar, Moishe House is an international organization with the goal of promoting Jewish community amount young adults (post college, 20s & 30s). While Shanghai had a relatively active Moishe House at various points when Jesse was in Shanghai, Beijing’s Moishe house has been pretty dormant since COVID started. One of my friends is trying to restart one, and this was definitely a fun start!
Vegans of Beijing Dumpling Making
Two Sunday’s ago, I got to take a brief respite from working on postdoc applications and go to another wonderful cooking class with Vegans of Beijing at the Hutong Cooking School with Chef Chao! If you remember back a few blog posts to the summer, this is actually my second dumpling making activity with Vegans of Beijing, but the two were incredibly different. While the previous class was more focused on communal filling and shaping of dumplings – we did cook the filling, but more as a group, not individually, and I didn’t get a recipe. For this class, as per usual with Chef Chao, he taught us how to do everything, including making the dough! For those of your who’ve never made jiaozi – Chinese dumplings, the dough is just flour and water and you work the dough, first with chopsticks, and then with your hands, until it is silky smooth! All of us in the class were responsible for making 16 dumplings, so after we made the dough, we got to work on making the fillings. Unlike the last class I did, where we had a cooked filling, for this, because we used a mix of tofu, pickled veggies, and rehydrated dried mushrooms, we didn’t have to cook anything ahead of time. Within the group, we split up and were each responsible for a different jiaozi. I did the pickled greens with dried tofu and rice noodles (see my plate with the chopped up tofu skins that look like scrambled eggs)! The other two dumplings were water chestnut, mushroom, and carrot jiaozi, and fennel & sweet potato noodle jiaozi (too bad I only just learned what I could do with all of that fennel from when my hutong locked down). Once all of the different fillings were chopped, we went about rolling out the dough and filling the dumplings. Each dough ball rolled out to be a bit smaller that the size of my palm – the rolling technique is a bit unique as it stresses a uniformity around all of the sides of the jiaozi – so it goes from being silver dollar sized to being much bigger. Chef Chao taught us a few different techniques, you can see the examples of his quite pretty jiaozi, but mine still were definitely the ugliest. It’s really hard to make pretty jiaozi! Thankfully they were all tasty regardless! We cooked them in three different manors, steaming, pan frying + steaming, and boiling. I think the pan frying + steaming was my favorite, since it added a bit more texture. Also, collectively, the tofu and pickle jiaozi that I made were the favorite (based only on the filling)! To top everything off, we made a black vinegar dipping sauce and had some of Chef Chao’s homemade chili oil!
The December Vegan Market & Modern Vegan at the Zarah Christmas Market
Last Sunday, I went to the Christmas Vegan Market! After not having a vegan market in November, it was really nice to get to buy tons of vegan baked goods and other things! This month’s market featured Grassroots, selling their signature vegan mac n’ cheese and a delicious cauliflower soup (with grilled cheese crustini) and my friend Jennifer’s Lief & Tree bakery (Jennifer is one of the organizers of Vegans of Beijing – I got so many delicious vegan baked goods from her, see below). There were also homemade traditional Chinese candies (I got the hawthorn fruit leather), lots of fresh produce, some really delicious tofu, and lots of other goodies!
To show off my haul, you can see the Grassroots soup & crustini, all of the delicious Lief & Tree baked goods – vegan cupcake, cookies, peanut butter cups, cranberry bread, and cake – a vegan German Christmas Stollen, and a yummy vegan carrot roll!
Also, the day before, my friend Alex (another one of the organizers of Vegans of Beijing), debuted her own Modern Vegan bakery at the Cafe Zarah Christmas Market! So I got even more vegan baked goods (cookies, brownie, vegan cheesecake, and lemon cake)!!!
The Chinese Nutcracker!
This past Thursday, I had the opportunity to go to the “Chinese New Year” ballet, a Chinese adaptation of the Nutcracker! I found out about it because the Tsinghua International Scholars office posted about having some extra tickets (the event was designed as another friendship learning experience for Foreign Talents in Beijing – so it started off with a long speech about China being open to foreigners), so Daniele and I decided to check it out (it was a nice way to mark finishing a bunch of applications)! I was particularly excited about it because the last ballet I saw was the original Nutcracker in Boston with my friends Phil and Kerry, so it was really cool to see this. I’ve included the synopsis below, but it hit a lot of the same plot points. The major difference is it’s set around the Lunar New Year and not Christmas, which given the Chinese setting, makes a ton of sense. The ballet opens up at a traditional Chinese temple fair and the main motif is the zodiac. The main through line connecting this to the Nutcracker (beyond the music) is the actual Nutcracker – in this it is given to Yuan Yuan (the heroine) by a foreign friend. While it’s a bit odd since Nutcrackers aren’t Chinese, it’s a nice homage to the original. Once that occurs, much of the ballet’s plot is the same. The main difference is that the villains are Dragons instead of rats and the heroes are Tigers (except for the Nutcracker) instead of toy soldiers. The dancing was pretty amazing (I really liked the fight scenes). I also liked that in the second act, they embraced a lot of the elements of the zodiac again in reinterpreting that act. It was a beautiful performance and one I’m really glad I got to see! Additionally, I ran into my friends Greg & Michelle from Kehillat Beijing there (they’re kids noticed me as “the guy who sings before we eat Challah at Roberta’s,” which is a pretty apt description of me! ).
Life at Tsinghua/An Astronomy Update
As I stated in the top of this post, despite the fun events that I got to partake in this month, the overwhelming majority of my time was spent applying for new postdoc positions. While the bulk of my research statement is constant, I do add a customized statement on synergy with the proposed position/researcher, so I spend a fair amount of time looking at the different research teams and how my work fits. Additionally, the cover letter is unique for each position. Taken with the fact that different applications have different requirements in terms of length, CV style, and other things, all of the applications take up a lot of time. In terms of statistics, the most applications that I’ve had due on a single day was 12. And that week, I was up until 1 or 2 am three days in a row working on applications (there have been a lot of very late nights – Goldie likes that though, since she can get a late night snack in lieu of an early morning breakfast). As of today, I’ve applied to 44 positions. All of them are in either the US, Europe, or Canada. Currently my list has nearly 70 positions (if I get something before I apply to that number it’d be great), so it’s definitely an exhausting process. Thankfully, my letter writers have been willing to submit so many letters! Optimistically, I should know by sometime in February or March where I’m heading to next, so I will definitely keep you all posted! Outsides of the applications, I’m still making slow and steady progress on Project Morphology and Project Low-Z. As I only have a handful of applications due over the next two weeks, I’m excited to focus on those projects and do my best to get as close to finishing them as possible! Additionally, last week, I helped one of my fellow postdocs, Hongming, who also studies radio active galactic nuclei, in cross-matching his machine-learning trained sample with my samples of bent radio AGNs, so it’s cool to see some collaborations start from being in person at Tsinghua!
Beyond working on applications, a few of the postdocs got to check out the new Physics & Astronomy building at Tsinghua (note that ~ 85% of the building will belong to the various Physics Departments – they break up Applied and Regular Physics). While no timetable for a move has been officially set (so it’s still possible I won’t actually get to move into this building), it’s nice to see the building be complete (they’ve been talking about it since I arrived). The building is pretty big and much nicer than our current location. The only concerning thing for the postdocs was the potential office space for us. There were rumblings that they might be putting us in large windowless offices, which seems to have been changed (thankfully), and you can see some potential office spaces below (including one with a backdoor to the seminar room). Fingers crossed we’ll move this Spring!
Additionally, the International Scholars Office had a New Years Party this past week! Richard, Daniele, Teppei, and my friend Miriam (from Kehillat Beijing who teaches English at Tsinghua) all went! It was fun! They had traditional Chinese crafts – I painted the characters for Good Fortune seen below (I was told my strokes were a bit too angular, but hey, at least it looks all right) and I won a Tsinghua Day Planner in a raffle! I also got to do some “karaoke,” singing Stars from Les Miserables. However, instead of karaoke, it was more of a sing-a-long as the video had the lyrics, but also had Russel Crowe singing (and the volume was not turned down), so it was a bit strange. We also attempted to end with a sing-a-long of the Happy New Year song, which I don’t think anyone realized isn’t a thing, so they played “Happy New Year” by ABBA, which none of us had heard before. It’s really nice that the University does these kind of events, so hopefully I’ll get to go to a few more before I leave.
On Friday, the Astronomy Department also did a Postdoc Salon, where each postdoc gave a 5-10 minute talk on his/her research! You can see some pictures below. While it was nice to get to hear about everyone’s research and that the department is trying to include us, I wish more non-postdocs had attended. It’d be nice to see the room full and the postdocs feel a bit more connected to the department. We also gave short presentations about our home towns (given that I’m the only American and nobody else who was in the room had spent an extended time working in the US, I felt like I had to share a bit about Saratoga).
Additionally, last night, I got the opportunity to join the C3VO team and observe (virtually) at the Keck Observatory in Mauna Kea (one of the benefits of being here is that it was from 6pm-12am here, so not too late a night for me). We were taking spectroscopy of different high-z galaxy targets in one of the C3VO protoclusters. This was my first time getting to do any observing in a long time and my first time on Keck, so it was really cool to see a different set up! Additionally, part of the night included a Shadow a Scientist session, where we had people from all over the world join us on zoom to learn about protocluster science and what’s being done with Keck! If I get to partake in any future Shadow a Scientist sessions, I’ll definitely share the link with all of you!
Also, I want to highlight an amazing Astronomy Picture of Day featuring the Beijing Ancient Observatory! I shared it with the Kehillat Beijing wechat group and people got really excited, so I’m going to try to organize a field trip there with the community this Spring!
A Blizzard in Beijing!
Early in December, I awoke to a Monday morning full of snow! While those of you who live in Saratoga might be thinking that these photos don’t look bad (we got ~ 1 inch), I want to highlight that all of the media outlets were claiming that this was a blizzard! While that actively goes against my upstate NY sensibilities, I did want to share some fun photos of the snow (and ice, the lakes have officially iced over).
Goldie!!
This was another great month for Goldie! While I definitely feel bad that all of my late nights in the office doing applications means a lot of long days for Goldie waiting for me to come home, it’s really so nice to have her sitting on the couch next to me keeping me company (don’t worry, when I get home late, I make sure to feed her with the automatic feeder). It’s so nice to have her waiting at the door for me, too! As you can see, the cold weather has meant lots of extra long naps for Goldie. Also, this month, I started the preparations for Goldie to leave China with me in June. For her, that meant going to the vet and getting her Rabies vaccine and microchip installed. While she had no issues with the rabies vaccine (though she does not like having to go in the cat backpack), the microchip was the largest needle I’d ever seen! She was a trooper though and despite a lot of squirming, did a great job (and then spent the rest of the day taking a very well deserved nap)! Next month, I’ll take her back to the vet to do the titre test and then we’ll be all set (except for the paperwork). Goldie’s also really enjoyed her new red ribbons, that come from the pomelo’s I’ve been getting – it’s always fun when there is a new “toy” to play with!
Also, with the cold weather, Goldie is continuing to enjoy burrowing under the covers. Most mornings, once I get out of bed, Goldie will crawl back in and burrow under the covers, finding the warmest and most comfortable places to spend the day. She’s so cute when she burrows!
Additionally, this month, we had my neighbors cat visit via my skylight not once, but twice (including once this morning). While Goldie doesn’t shriek like my Mom & Dad’s cat LC, she does get very vocal. I don’t know if she’s trying to get my attention, the other cat’s attention, or just mark her territory, but she seems very interested in the cat (although I don’t think he notices her). As I don’t really have any easy windows for her to sit on, the skylight is one of the few ways she can experience the world, so I think she sometimes is a bit shocked when she sees another cat!
Jewish Life in Beijing
Outside of the Thanksgiving and Channukkah Shabbats, we’ve had three other lovely shabbats since my last blog post. However, only one of the them was at Roberta & Ted’s house. For that one, it was Romanian Shabbat and we had a wonderful array of Romanian food! Ted really outdid himself on the menu and it, like all of the Shabbats, were fantastic.
Additionally, starting this month, we’ve restructured some of the organization for Kehillat Beijing to take a bit of the leadership pressure off Roberta (especially for the Friday nights) and to make it a bit easier to know who is in charge when they are out of town. As such, I, along with my friends Kevin, Sam, and Aaron, are now on the “Worship” team, basically in charge of making sure there is a D’var torah each week and that someone is able and willing to lead services (usually one of the four of us). The past two weeks, we’ve had Shabbat at alternative locations. While they’ve been small (and featured a more normal dinner at restaurants), it’s still lovely to get together as part of the community!
Additionally, this month, I had the honor of going to my friends Jonathon & Sissel’s wedding here in Beijing! This is my first wedding in China (and unless something changes, will be one of two weddings I attend). This was also the first Jewish wedding that I’d been to in a long time, which made it extra special! As Jonathon’s family is from both the US and Colombia and Sissel is Chinese, it also featured four languages (Hebrew, English, Spanish, and Mandarin)! For those of you wondering, because Sissel isn’t Jewish, the Chabad rabbi cannot officiate, but Aaron (who’s on the worship team with me) did an excellent job acting as rabbi. The ceremony featured a lot of members of the community doing readings and was a really lovely night. Since this isn’t my event, I don’t want to share too many photos, but I did want to share this photo of their lovely Chuppah!
Vegan Food
Although many of my meals have been at extremely late hours this month, I was able to have a few nice meals both at the beginning and end of the last 5 weeks in writing this post! Late in November, Chris (the one foreign professor in our department), Richard, Pablo, Daniele, Tom, and I got together for our semi-regular “laowai” dinner to chat about the department, the new building, and just general thoughts on life in Beijing. This time we went to a Syrian restaurant called BRBR and I got a delicious meal full of lots of hummus, baba ganoush, falafel, & tabouleh. I really enjoy Middle Eastern food, but it’s pretty rare in Beijing, so it’s always nice to get to eat some!
Last weekend (notice the large gap between fun meals), Richard, Daniele, Teppei, and I went to an amazing Duli pop-up at Ori, a vegetarian sake bar/restaurant near my apartment. For those of you who remember Jesse’s blog, Duli is an amazing Chinese-Fusion restaurant from Shanghai, and it is so wonderful to have their delicious food in Beijing (the pop-up is during December and January). It also made me really miss Jesse, since I always went to Duli with him! Because Duli’s menu isn’t huge, we got the entire menu! We got an apple spice tea (which reminded me of apple cider), mapo tofu hummus, tom yum wonton soup, yuba (tofu skin) and avocado salad, truffle pumpkin cannelloni, vegan lasagna, roasted curry cauliflower, and corn & cauliflower fritter with bao! Everything was amazing, but the mapo tofu hummus and the cauliflower & corn fritter were my favorites!!! I’m so glad that I could share one of Jesse’s favorite restaurants with my friends here and I’m definitely going to try to go again before it ends!
This past Thursday (before the ballet), Daniel, Pablo, Josh (Chris’s new postdoc from Australia who just arrived in Beijing), and I went for a delicious lunch at Tianchun Miaoxiang, the vegan restaurant near Tsinghua! We got jasmine tea, mapo tofu, eggplant & chickpeas, flame tofu, dry pot with spicy vegan sausage, orange juice, spicy vegetarian mock fish (seitan), and taro balls with walnuts & chestnuts! It was all amazing! Since this place is so close to Tsinghua, it is definitely our go to restaurant so I’m glad I always have great meals here!
Lastly, this afternoon, after seeing Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom, Daniele and I went to Wutai Yan, a vegan restaurant near the theatre (yes, although a day early, I did the stereotypically Jewish tradition of seeing a movie and getting Chinese food on Christmas – Christmas Eve in my case). This was my first time going to Wutai Yan and it definitely won’t be my last (they had an amazing looking vegan hot pot that I want to try too). We got fresh apples and rice tea to start. We then got mapo tofu, apricot juice, kung pao mushrooms, sword beans, and crispy monkey head mushrooms! It was a really delicious meal and the restaurant definitely had a bit more of a neighborhood restaurant vibe (as opposed to being a bit more formal). Also, they had a really great organic food selection in the front of the restaurant (I wish I hadn’t gone grocery shopping yesterday), and I got some great dried fruits and dried mushrooms!
This month, I also did a ton of my own vegan cooking. For the week of Thanksgiving, I made a Thanksgiving-style meal, featuring a seitan roast, sword beans (for the green beans), and roasted cauliflower. The following weeks, I made a delicious Thai red curry soup, black bean soup, the Lunch Room’s Corn & Potato Chowder (the Lunch Room was a wonderful vegan restaurant in Ann Arbor that is now the Detroit Street filling station – they merged with their sister restaurant during COVID), and a West African Peanut Stew. I also made a delicious and very popular sticky sesame cauliflower for the Moishe House Channukah party! And because I have a sweet tooth, I made more vegan tofu chocolate pudding, and peanut butter thumbprint cookies featuring my friend Lionel’s delicious vegan “notella”. Also, it doesn’t really feel like winter until I have the first sugar covered strawberries of the season, so with the chill, I say, “Let winter begin!”
Exploring Beijing
In wandering around Beijing this month, I saw lots of fun signs, statues, and other things that I wanted to share! You can see that a few Lunar New Years decorations are starting to appear – more coming in January, and a lot of fun mascots! Enjoy!
With the cold in full effect, I also saw lots of cool bike covers, as well as some cool decals and stickers!
Animals of Beijing
Before the chill and after, I saw a lot of animals in Beijing this month. The first I wanted to highlight was a duck that was just walking around Houhai when I went for a run! Although not the pig walking down the street, this is definitely one of the more surreal animal sightings. Of course, I got to see Roberta & Ted’s puppies Mimi & Honey at Shabbat this month, too! They are definitely my favorite dogs in Beijing. Outside of the visits to my skylight, I also got spotted a number of neighborhood cats. While I’m definitely a bit concerned that I still see many of them outside in the winter (I’m hoping they all have someplace warm to go), it’s always nice to see a cat and I try to give them snacks when I can! You can see my neighbors cats are excellent climbers, so it’s no surprise that they can get up to my skylight! Also, when we had the Moishe House Channukkah Party, my friend Jennifer who hosted it has a roommate, who’s white cat was very pretty and very friendly – I don’t think she liked all of us being in her space, but she didn’t run and hide like Goldie does when it gets too noisy in my apartment.
What am I Reading/Watching?
To kick things off, I just got back from seeing Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom! This is a direct sequel to the 2018 Aquaman film and I really enjoyed it! While it’s a bummer that it marks the end of this iteration of the DC universe (I’m very excited for James Gunn’s new DCU coming in 2025), I’m glad this film was the last one so that this era could go out on a high note. The film is a lot of fun. It’s mostly a buddy adventure featuring Jason Momoa’s Aquaman & Patrick Wilson’s Orm as they fight Yahya Abdul-Mateen’s Black Manta, with a lot of action, both above and below water. While the fight scenes are particularly great, I think my favorite thing is the dynamic between Momoa & Wilson! I also really liked Randall Park’s Dr. Stephen Shin! While it’s not a perfect movie, if you enjoyed the first one, it’s a lot of fun and definitely my favorite of the most recent batch of DC films, so you should definitely go see it!
Outside of Aquaman 2, I also finished watching two different shows this month. On Netflix, I watched The Diplomat starring Keri Russel and Rufus Sewell. This is a political soap opera centering around the US Ambassador to the UK, who is also currently being vetted as a VP candidate. While it was a bit more of a soap opera than I would have liked, I really liked all of the political drama and the cliffhanger at the end of the season was awesome! I also finished season 4 of Bosh on Amazon Prime! As always, it’s a really great cop drama and I loved the way they honed in on police corruption in this season. I’m really enjoyed working my way through Bosch and am definitely excited that I still have a few more seasons to go!
On the reading front, I read Hilo vol 3, 4, 5, & 6 by Judd Winick. This is an all ages comic about a young robot boy who crash lands on Earth and needs to save the world from the evil robot Razorhawk with the help of his friends! Vol 6 marked the end of the initial story arc and it’s a really satisfying arc. I have two more volumes here in China, so I’m excited to read them. It’s a lot of fun and I definitely recommend it to anyone who liked superhero comics, or has kids who do!
East Meets West (and a lot of Christmas decorations in Beijing)
As I’m posting this on Christmas Eve, even in Beijing we see a lot of Christmas decorations up and about. Although mostly at western restaurants and malls, it’s always a bit surreal how decked things get up for Christmas since it isn’t really a holiday here. Still, Christmas trees look pretty, so enjoy all of the decorations!
Outside of Christmas decorations, I saw lots of other fun stickers, signs, casette tapes, and other aspects of the west! Although mostly Disney and Harry Potter, I also saw a fun “Waiting for Godot” cafe and lots of Harry Potter posters at the movie theatre. Also, I want to highlight that a Chinese adaptation of Les Miserables is being put on and playing in Beijing in January! I’m a huge fan of Les Miserables, but unfortunately, the play sold out before I even realized you could get tickets :(. I’m definitely a bit bummed that I won’t get to see it (I think I know the story well enough that I could follow the plot beats even in Mandarin), but I’ll be keeping an eye out to see if more tickets miraculously appear.
Anime & Comics
No Astronomer in Beijing blog post would be complete without all of the anime, comics, and manga statues that I saw this month! While I obviously saw a lot of Aquaman posters, I also saw a ton of cool statues – including a few at the movie theatre – the giant Hulk Buster Iron Man – as well as lots of anime figurine displays featuring One Piece, Pokemon, and DragonBall Z!
Outside of figurines, I also saw tons of anime stickers on bikes, featuring Ultraman, Pokemon, and Hello Kitty!
As always, if you’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading my blog! I really appreciate it and hope you enjoyed hearing about my very busy December. While January will also be full of lots more postdoc applications (and some interviews), I hope I’ll be able to share some more fun things with you next month (again, aiming for a mid-January post). If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please let me know either here or via e-mail. I hope you all have a very happy New Year! Stay safe and healthy! See you all in 2024!
Thank you all for returning to my Astronomer in Beijing blog. I hope you’re all safe and healthy and enjoying November and that you all have a lovely Thanksgiving this Thursday. As I’ll be spending another Thanksgiving away from family, I hope all of you get to spend it with loved ones and give them an extra big hug! It’s hard to be away from family, especially with all that’s going on in the world. Here in Beijing, the fall/winter has finally set in after an abnormally warm October (we had high temperatures in the 70s for most of the month – now they’re in the upper 40s and lower 50s). However, the colder weather isn’t the reason that this blog post is a bit later than usual (Sorry about that!). As I mentioned in the last couple of posts, my time in China will come to an end in June, so I’m applying for new postdoc positions now. As such, I’ve been VERY busy writing and reworking research statements for the different applications and I didn’t get a chance to write this blog post until now. Just for scheduling purposes, you can expect the next post to be around mid-late December as well (I have a TON of applications due December 15).
Before I dive into what I did over the last 6 weeks, I do want to address the current situation in Israel. It’s hard to believe that when I last wrote you all, the Hamas attacks had just happened and we were all still in a collective daze as to what was going to happen. While I don’t want to turn this post into a political soapbox about Israel and Palestine, I do want to say that I find the increase in Anti-Semitism in the US and the rest of the world to be abhorrent. While I am fine with people disagreeing about Israel’s actions, seeing people celebrate the massacring of innocent Israeli civilians and then turning anger at Israel’s actions into full blown hate speech toward all Jewish people is unacceptable. In some regards, being in China has created a weird bubble when it comes to this. While I have yet to see any in person anti-Semitism here (or any protest or rally in regards to anything here), Chinese social media has been flooded with posts praising Hamas and more concerning, spreading radical right-wing nonsense about Jews controlling the world and being generally horrible people. To me, given that most Chinese people probably have never (and will never) meet a Jew, it’s concerning. I remember people trying to write off the very stereotypical way that some Chinese people view Jews as being “smart, well-educated, & good with money” since these are all positive stereotypes. However, it’s very easy for the flip to switch and narratives to change when everything is built on stereotypes and not actual relations and understanding. Thankfully, the Kehillat Beijing community has been both a safe space and a supportive community for all of us during this time, especially as the world is feeling a little colder and less friendly. I hope that everyone reading this is doing okay and has a community there to support them.
Although I’ve been very busy working on postdoc applications, I did do a few fun things since I last posted (though most of these – outside of Shabbat – were in October). I hope you enjoy hearing about them.
October Vegan Market
In October, we had another amazing Vegan Market. There was a mix of new and returning vendors, as well as lots of puppies available for adoption. Although it was a bit quieter in terms of attendance – at least when I was there, it was a lot of fun and made for a very delicious afternoon. For me, one of the highlights were a new tofu vendor, who sold some delicious tofu skewers, as well as a really yummy tofu burger (pictures of both below) and some delicious crepes! The tofu vendor also had some amazing tofu skin rolls (almost like a nugget made out of tofu skins) and soy milk that I bought, too!
As I mentioned above, I ate well thanks to the vegan market! Outside of the tofu skewers and tofu burger, I got two delicious crepes from my friend Lionel. He made a delicious savory crepe with his vegan mozzarella, pepper sauce, eggplant, and pesto, and a delicious vegan “notella” crepe! Both were amazing. I also got a large haul of food to take back, including lots of tofu products, vegan cheese, dried mango, and energy balls.
Vegans of Beijing Cooking Class
The following week, I went to the Vegans of Beijing Cooking class. As always, Chef Chao does an amazing job teaching the class and showing us how to make the dishes. He really is a great teacher. And you don’t need to just take my recommendation. When my friend Daniele’s girlfriend visited in early November, they signed up for a dumpling class with him (unbeknownst to me), so when I heard that he was looking for a class, I recommended Chef Chao, only to find that they’d already found him! This month, we made three delicious and very different dishes. We started with sauteed eggplant and green beans. I’ve made similar dishes before, but this time we used the longer “sword bean” variety and Japanese-style eggplant (and a few chilis for extra heat). I really liked using the Japanese eggplants (I think this was the first time we’d used them – we’ve used the bigger, more European ones before), making sure to give them a quick blanch so they cook a bit quicker. This dish was a lot of fun to cook (we had to cook down the eggplant for a while – the beans were much quicker), but it was so tasty! And the sauce was really simple. Just a bit of soy sauce and vinegar! Also, check out Chef Chao’s new cutting board! So cool!
The next dish we made was possibly my favorite – and one of the most unexpected since I really had no idea what it would be like going in. We made fried tofu balls! While I’m still a bit afraid of deep frying – I’d either bake or pan-fry them when I make them at home – this dish was both amazing and pretty easy. We started with softer tofu (not silken, but just medium firmness) and added scallions and carrots and mashed them together (with a bit of flour and cornstarch) to make small little fritters. We then fried them up and topped a spicy chili powder (that we made! – see the last dish) and a little bit of Chef Chao’s own chili oil. Somehow, the tofu balls were both crispy on the outside and amazingly light and airy on the inside. I’ve never seen these before and they are immediately one of the favorite things I’ve learned to cook!
The last dish we made was a Chinese spin on mashed potatoes. While you may be thinking that mashed potatoes are super European – and they are – Northern China also has its own spin on the dish. Specifically, we started with boiled potatoes – ok, this is pretty standard – but instead of adding butter or cream, we just added water, so the mash is really pure potato. However, the added flavor came from the amazing array of roasted chilis and peanuts that we blended together. This chili powder was so good (as were the mashed potatoes – if anyone is looking for a different version for Thanksgiving)!!
All in all, this was another amazing Vegan cooking class! I don’t know when the next one will be (there was not one in November due to the surplus of Thanksgiving related events), but I already cannot wait!
A Visit to Beihai Park
Immediately after my cooking class, I met up with Richard, Tom, Daniele, Teppei (a new postdoc in the department from Japan), and two of Pablo’s friends who are from Mexico at Beihai Park. Beihai Park dates back to the 12th Century and was originally part of the larger Forbidden City complex, meaning it was only open to the royal family. While the lake aesthetically looks a lot like Houhai and Shichahai, the two lakes that are near my apartment that I run around (Beihai Park is also near me, it’s actually at the south end of Houhai), unlike those two lakes, Beihai Park is closed off from the city and includes a lot of temples and palaces that look like the Forbidden City. While I’ve been to Beihai Park before, it was in early March, so it was lovely to enjoy the day with everyone. One of the cool things at Beihai Park has is a ton of self-steering boats that you’re allowed to rent. Given our group size, we rented a large Lotus looking boat and spent about an hour slowly going around the lake. It was so much fun! Of course we had to play some pirate themed music while on the lake.
After we got off the boat, we made our way toward the Jade Flower Island, the home to the White Pagoda (I also got a strawberry popsicle – it was pretty hot). As you can see from some of the photos of the lake, the White Pagoda is enormous – it stands ~ 40 meters high – and it one of the first things that you immediately see when you enter the park. While you cannot enter the inside of this pagoda, it does look really amazing when you climb up to the top! Additionally, the island includes a number of other temple grounds surrounding the pagoda, too! While these temples aren’t actively being used (at least I don’t think they are), they do aesthetically look similar to some of the temples I’ve seen in Beijing and Shanghai and I always love seeing the different statues and architecture (so many dragons for the emperor, too!).
Because Beihai Park closes early – around 5:30 – we made our way to Fu Hui Ci Yuan – the Vegetarian Restaurant near the Forbidden City – for a lovely meal afterward (see the More Vegan Food section). However, on the way, we walked by the Forbidden City and I wanted to share a few very picturesque views of the outside of the Forbidden City!
A Comic Store in Beijing!
As I think a lot of you know by now, I’m a big fan of American comics. One of the downsides of living in China has been the lack of comic book stores – thank you digital comics! However, last month, a new comic book “store” opened in Beijing and is about a 15 minute walk from my apartment! I use the word “store” in quotes because it isn’t a full-fledged comic book store, but more of a comic book annex at the back of a bar. However, it was still really cool to get to see a comic store again! They had their grand opening the weekend before Halloween – including a small artist market. For those of you who are familiar with comic shops and American comics in generally, you probably know that comics come out weekly, meaning getting new and regular comics into China would be incredibly difficult. Instead, the selection is more of an extended back issue bin, but it was pretty cool! While it was mostly single issues, they do have a lot of stuff! Unfortunately, because of how expensive it is to ship comics in (they weigh a lot), the books are a bit pricy relative to US prices, but it’s still really great to have a comic store in the city!
Astronomy Update – Life at Tsinghua
As I mentioned at the start of this blog post, it’s been a busy month for me Astronomy-wise, and that’s mostly because I’ve been applying for postdoc positions again. For those of you who aren’t in Astronomy, the typical applications consist of a cover letter, 2-5 page research statement, and CV. While that may sound pretty straight forward, I try to customize each application. That means that I spend a fair amount of time looking at the research interests of the prospective employers/research supervisors to see how they overlap with my own. While I don’t rewrite each application, I do tweak them to emphasize different aspects or make different connections (thank you to all of my friends, family, and collaborators who read my statements and offered me feedback). As most of these positions are hiring one or maybe two people, I’ll be applying to a lot of different positions all over the world. Although I’ve enjoyed my time here in Beijing, I’m focusing only on the US, Europe, and Canada. Given how expensive and long flights are between the US and China, I’d like to more easily be able to visit family and go to conferences. Fingers crossed! I’ve currently applied to 14 positions and get a bit of a lull for Thanksgiving this week. As new positions are still being posted regularly on the AAS (American Astronomical Society) Job Registry (which is for any Astronomy job anywhere in the world), I don’t know exactly how many I’ll apply to in the end, but right now, I’m up to 54. It’s still too early to have heard anything back yet (the first application was only due ~ 3 weeks ago), but as I hear things, I will certainly let you all know.
With all that said, I have been working on some other Astronomy work, too! Specifically, I’m making slow, but steady progress on Project Morphology. I have the main plots all made (so I’m hoping to have everything drafted soon – though the applications are definitely hurting my productivity) and have been focused on better quantifying the error measurements for my measurement of the shape of galaxies and error in the density. I’ve got that figured out now (I think), so I just need to implement everything! Also, I’ve been working a lot on Project Low-z, my collaboration with Jesse. That project has come together really nicely, so the last thing we need to do is measure the radio properties of all the sources, which is unfortunately quite time consuming. I’m hoping that for both papers, at the absolute worst, I will power through them and get them drafted early in the winter. I’m also in the beginning stages of a new protocluster project as part of the C3VO survey with my friend Brian Lemaux, which I’ll call Project Pair for now, which will look at the pair fraction (essentially looking for galaxies that might merge) in protoclusters and have two other projects with collaborators here in China that I’ll make more of the priority once I’m done with my applications! Outside of my own work, there was some really cool Astronomy news to share! While JWST is definitely the “hot” telescope right now (I was also a CO-I on 5 JWST proposals and while the science was very good in all of them, reading those and providing feedback took a lot of time!), the European Space Agency released the first images from Euclid, an IR large-survey telescope that is going to observe a large portion of the Northern sky! Above, I’ve included an image of the Perseus Cluster from Euclid (note, the pink/purple is Chandra X-ray emission). Jesse is part of the science team studying the intracluster light in Perseus, which is cool! The Euclid surveys are instrumental to the research I’m proposing to do in my next postdoc, and the data quality is super exciting!
Beyond all of that, the Astronomy Department also had a few fun (and one more academic event) this month. Early in October, the department did its second installment of the DoA Astro-Games! You may remember that last year Richard, Tom, and I hilariously competed in a 4-legged race. Thankfully, the games were a bit less balance-oriented this year. Unfortunately, they conflicted with a meeting I had to discuss postdoc applications, so I didn’t get to participate, but I did get to watch the beginning and end (and got some fun action shots of Richard in some kind of version of dodgeball). Richard’s team came in second and they won a bunch of snacks! Beyond that, we continue to have our monthly DoA Special Coffee events where the department gets together and eats cake. While it’s been frustrating that the postdocs are still in a separate building, I’m glad that we can at least do that! Additionally, this month, Richard, Tom, Daniele, Pablo, and I (and other Chinese postdocs, too) all had our annual “Mid-Term” Evaluation. While nobody, including the faculty, really understand the purpose of this, we all had to give 5 minute presentations on what work we did last year. It’s really hard to do a full summary in 5 minutes! It’s a bit odd since we don’t get any feedback, but it’s just part of the process here.
I spent a lot of time on campus this month (I find that I’m more productive at the office, so especially with all of the applications, I’ve spent many a late night at the office – sometimes not leaving until 9 or 10pm – don’t worry, I have an automatic feeder for Goldie). As such, I did get a few photos of the campus that looked nice and I thought I’d share! However, one not so great aspect of the late nights is that earlier in October, when I got back to my apartment, I discovered that I was locked out. You may be thinking, “Emmet, where did you leave your key?” Well, I don’t have a key, only a punch code. Unbeknownst to me, the battery operated key pad had died (and it had been telling me in Mandarin to replace the batteries for months). After messaging my landlord (and help from my friend Kevin), I was able to discover that the key pad has a charging port, so I went to a nearby market to rent a charging cable (given the prevalence of everything being phone based, these chargers are super common) and get back in. Needless to say, I’ve since replaced the batteries, but that made for a not so fun evening!
Additionally, when I was walking around campus this past week, I saw this fun poster for an a capella concert on campus! While I didn’t get to go, it’s really cool to see that halfway around the world, a capella is still popular on college campuses. Being a part of the Alef Beats was a highlight of my time at Brown and I’m glad students here get to experience similar activities.
Jewish Life in Beijing
As I’m sure it has been for many of you, it’s been a bit of a difficult time to be a Jew, so I’m really glad to have a community to turn to. As I mentioned in my last post, the Kehilat Shanghai and Kehillat Beijing came together to raise ~ $41,000 for NATAL an Israeli non-profit focusing on Mental Health related services for people in Israel. It’s really amazing that the community – and many Chinese friends – were able to raise so much money. Because of the situation, Kehillat Beijing had planned to have the first two Shabbats combined with Chabad for a show of unity among the larger Beijing community. Unfortunately on October 13, the boyfriend of an Israeli-embassy worker in Beijing was stabbed (the second foreigner stabbing in Beijing this fall) and as no one was sure if it was Anti-Semitic related, Anti-Israel, personal, or just random, the Israeli Embassy strongly suggested that Jews not congregate in known locations. However, one of my friends organized a small last minute Shabbat at his home and it was lovely. Because of the late notice, I didn’t have time to make anything, but I did get a really delicious and beautiful Challah (see below) from The Bake Shop – a Western bakery (owned by Israelis, which is why they have Challah). The following week, we were able to congregate together at Chabad. That Shabbat was extra special, because we had a Bar Mitzvah! While the Bar Mitzvah was originally supposed to be in Israel and couldn’t for obvious reasons, I’m so glad for the Bar Mitzvah boy that we were able to come together and he could have a celebration. Since we were at Chabad, I couldn’t take photos on Shabbat, but I did snag a quick photo of two delicious babkas that were for the celebration – the photo was taken before sundown!
With joint Shabbats with Chabad, we only had three Kehillat Beijing Shabbats this month. However, they were all amazing, lovely, and delicious. The first was “Challah-ween”, our annual Halloween Shabbat. While I get to see some Halloween decorations around Beijing (mostly at expat bars and markets), this was really how I got to celebrate. Ted went all out with the decorations and the menu! And Roberta made a delicious and super cute pumpkin challah! Additionally, for the one month anniversary of the war in Israel, we had a Peace Shabbat, including lots of singing of different prayers focusing on peace, but also peace related foods (or peace related food puns). This Friday, we had an Italian themed Shabbat, in honor of international Italian cuisine week, which I believe was last week. All of these meals were delicious and more importantly, provide a warm and welcoming community and I’m so glad that this community exists.
Goldie!!
Although I’ve spent a lot of time working on applications this month (and many a late night in the office), Goldie continues to be my constant companion. Whether it’s hanging out on my bed in the morning (and now that it’s cooler, the evening, too!), sitting on the couch next to me while I work (she really likes my new couch cover), or just greeting me when I get home late, she’s so loving and adorable. She’s also been quite sleepy during the day, she definitely becomes a bit more nocturnal in the winter!
Beyond her napping, she continues to enjoy burrowing, whether it is in her tube or under the covers! There are many days where I’ll get up out of bed and Goldie will crawl under the covers and spend 2 – 7 hours curled up sleeping. As long as she’s happy, I’m happy.
Beyond all of that, Goldie has been very interested in the front and side door this month! I think that’s because we’ve been getting some visitors. Here are a few of the photos of Goldie seeing and interacting with some of the neighborhood cats. While I’m never entirely sure if they see her (only once has one come down to the door), she gets very excited. I definitely wish I could give her a friend, but logistically, one cat is enough for now (especially given how difficult it was for Jesse to get Charlie & Scottie to the UK).
More Vegan Food
Although it’s been a busy month, I did get to have some delicious meals! After we went to Beihai Park, we made our way to Fu Hui Ci Yuan for a delicious vegan feast! We got orange juice, tofu with a spicy relish, vinegar noodles, crispy fried mushrooms (one of my favorite bites in Beijing), a spinach filled “cake” – almost like a scallion pancake filled with spinach, fried eggplant, vegetarian duck – which is tofu skin rolls in this case, spicy vegetarian mock fish, mustard mushrooms, fried beans, and fried rice in a banana leaf! It was all amazing! Fu Hui Ci Yuan is my favorite restaurant in Beijing, so I’m always excited to go there!
Later in October and November, I went to Tianchu Miaoxiang, the vegetarian restaurant near Tsinghua, three times with three different groups of people. First, I went there with my friend Mark from Kehillat Beijing. He lives in the area and teaches at one of the smaller Universities near the Olympic Park, so we met up on his daily commute. We got orange juice, a dry pot with mock meats, a tofu skin dry pot, a woody mushroom dish, and taro balls with walnuts & chestnuts. It was all delicious!! The taro balls are one of my favorites (and you’ll see they make a few appearances)!
Later, when Daniele’s girlfriend was visiting from Spain, Pablo, Daniele, Teppei, and two of Daniele’s friends from the Math Department went to dinner and we had another delicious feast! We got military tofu, fried lotus root (Pablo’s favorite), kung pao chik’n, almond milk (quite good, but they like to serve it warm, which is still strange to me), the taro balls with walnuts & chestnuts, flame tofu (Daniele’s favorite), eggplant & chickpeas, vegetarian fish, dry pot with veggie sausage, watermelon juice, stir fried potatoes and mushrooms, spicy tofu “pudding” – a block of tofu in a warm Sichuan pepper broth – really delicious, and roasted potatoes! It was amazing!!
Lastly, in early November, I had a delicious lunch with my friend Miriam from Kehillat Beijing, who also teaches at Tsinghua! We got a canteloupe juice, cold spicy Sichuan mushroom, sauteed bamboo shoots, eggplant & chickpeas, and the taro balls with walnuts & chestnuts! It was another delicious meal!
Despite all of those meals out, I did do a fair bit of cooking myself, too! I made a delicious lentil curry with crispy tofu, a sweet & sour tempeh, a tofu curry, a chickpea curry, lentil soup, and roasted tomato soup with quinoa! With the cold weather now firmly set in, it’s officially soup weather and I’m enjoying that! I also finished off the last of my vegan Mooncakes from the Mid-Autumn Festival, and made a delicious vegan tofu chocolate pudding (with Oreo crumbs mixed in).
Happy Halloween!
While Halloween is a thoroughly American holiday, there are enough foreigners (or at least enough interest in Halloween), that a lot of the import stores, 7/11, and different bars put up a lot of decorations for Halloween (and Christmas, too). Here’s just a selection of what I saw this month! While my own Halloween festivities were limited to “Challah”-ween, I did get a chocolate Jack o’ Lantern and skull cookies to enjoy!
Exploring Beijing
Although I’ve been hunkered down in my apartment or my office over the last few weeks (basically since applications began), I did see some fun things earlier in the month. Here are some of the cool signs and statues that I saw this month!
While the winter chill has killed most of the pretty flowers, when it was still sunny and in the 70s in October, I did see some lovely flowers (and even some persimmons – if you look closely). While much of the city is grey and concrete, it’s always lovely to see a flower peaking through and add a splash of color.
And of course I saw lots of fun bike decorations, too!
Animals of Beijing
Although Goldie is and always will be my favorite Beijing cat, the neighborhood cats were out in force in October (though I haven’t seen them much since the chill – I hope they all are staying in their homes or have other warm places to spend the day). In particular, the four cats that my next door neighbor has. They seem to lounge all over the neighborhood, on cars, windows, roofs, and even above the awning to my door (I try to give them some treats when I can)! This month, we were again joined by some friendly cats at the cooking class – I think they must have a lot more fun when Chef Chao cooks meat as they can eat the scraps. I also saw some cute dogs and I even saw a few ducks hanging out in Beijing, too!
And of course, no Shabbat is complete without a visit from Mimi & Honey, Roberta & Ted’s dogs. They are so friendly and always find the most comfortable places to lounge while we pray and eat.
What Am I Reading/Watching?
Although I’ve been busy this month, I did finally get a chance to finish reading Anthony Horowitz’s Moriarty! For those of you unfamiliar with him, this is Horowitz’s 2nd Sherlock Holmes novel officially licensed by the the Conan Doyle estate – the first was House of Silk, which was great! This tells the tale of the immediate aftermath of Reichenbach falls and focuses primarily on the supporting characters in many of the Sherlock Holmes novels, while introducing a criminal enterprise from the US seeking to disrupt crime in Britain. While I don’t want to spoil the book, I will say that it was a great read and “wow”, I did not see the twist coming at all! Beyond that, I also read the two volume graphic novel Hero by David Rubin. Rubin’s a Spanish comic artist and he expertly retells the story of Heracles, but mixing in modern pop culture and classic superhero tropes. I highly recommend it!
Outside of books, I also finished a lot of different TV shows. In early October, I finished Almost Paradise on Amazon Freevee. It’s a fun, light-hearted show about a former DEA agent who moves to the Philippines and ends up working as a consultant with the police. While never amazing, it was a lot of fun and it’s by the same people who did Leverage, so definitely in that spirit! I also finished the Netflix adaptation of One Piece. For those of you unfamiliar, One Piece is a manga centered around Monkey D. Luffy on his quest to become the “King of the Pirates” and it is one of the most popular and successful manga in the world. The manga began serialization in 1997 and is still going, having reached over 100 volumes and spanning an anime that has run since 1999 and spans over 1000 episodes, too. While Western adaptations of manga have a long track record of being bad (Dragon Ball Evolution, Scarlett Johansson’s Ghost in the Shell, the Netflix adaptation of Death Note), this was really good! They hit the main story beats of the manga (at least the first few volumes) and did a really good job capturing the spirit of the characters! I definitely recommend it (though maybe only to anime fans). I also finished the Netflix anime Castlevania: Nocturne, the most recent installment of the Castlevania franchise – a series about vampire hunters in 15th – 19th century Europe. I really enjoyed this series, especially the cliffhanger at the end! I can’t wait for more! I also finished watching the anime Gun X Sword, which tells the tale of Van of the Dawn on his quest around a desert planet to defeat “The Claw”. It definitely encapsulates mecha anime (giant robot) on the early 2000s, but it was a lot of fun! I also finished season 3 of Bosch on Amazon (based on the novels by Michael Connely). I’ve talked a bit about this show before, but it’s really a great slow burn cop drama. While not high art, I like that it isn’t a murder of the week show and shows a complexity to the types of cases the LAPD deal with (as well as a bit of the real world complexity of being a cop). I also finished Hijack on Apple TV+, a miniseries starring Idris Elba about the highjacking of a plane going from the Middle East to London. It was a really good show (and I’m glad they did not fall into the trap of the hijackers being Middle Eastern) and full of a ton of suspense and twists and turns! I also finished the 4th and final season The Doom Patrol on Max. This show, about the quirky DC superhero team of the same name, encapsulate the weird and wacky side of comic books (as does the comic) and really does a great job portraying the emotional baggage of being a hero. It really is a fantastic show and I highly recommend it. I’m definitely sad to see it go. Lastly, I finished the anime SSSS.Dynazenon yesterday. A “super sentai” series – the Japanese version of what was the inspiration for Power Rangers – this was a fun anime about fighting giant robots, but like its predecessor, SSSS.Gridman, it does a great job including slice of life elements and highlighting the struggles of teenage/adult life in Japan (or at least a bit of a romanticized version of it).
East Meets West
In my travels around Beijing, I did see a few more signs (beyond Halloween decorations) of the west. In particular, I went into a foreign language bookstore (although I didn’t buy anything since I still have about 15+ books from Jesse), as well as saw a Shaq sign for Papa Johns (I’m sure he’s more recognizable than Papa Johns here), an ad for Titanic the musical (it’s cool that Western musicals are coming here), lots of Tom & Jerry, and even a Rick & Morty and Betty Boop sighting!
And of course, thee was a lot of Mickey Mouse and other Disney paraphernalia, too!
Anime & Comics
Outside of the comic shop, I also saw a ton of anime, comics, and manga stuff this month, too! It helps when you stop by a mall on your way to get a flu shot! I always love spotting manga and anime stuff here, even if it’s series that aren’t my favorite (a lot of Shin-Chan and Doraemon this month). However, I really love seeing all of the statues and the displays, especially for One Piece, Dragon Ball Z, Demon Slayer, and and Gundam! I also saw a ton of Avengers stuff this month (although I’ve seen no mention of The Marvels anywhere here – I am hoping Aquaman 2 opens here since the first was a major hit!).
Beyond figurines, I saw a ton of “found” anime & comics – stickers, posters, and random other things throughout the city. My favorite is that Dragonball Z is somehow being used to sell KFC here. I also saw a ton of Mario this month, as well as Pokemon, One Piece, and Doraemon!
If you’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading my blog! I hope you liked hearing about what fun things I did in October and the postdoc application process. I don’t know how many fun things I’ll do between this post and the next post (so many applications to write, so little time), but I do have some plans for Thanksgiving and Channukkah, so at least that! For all of you who are celebrating Thanksgiving later this week, I hope you have a lovely holiday and get to spend it with loved ones. For those of you celebrating Channukkah in early December, I hope it is also equally lovely and that you get to eat some yummy latkes. As always, I really appreciate all of your feedback, so if you have any questions, comments, or concerns, feel free to comment on the blog here, or write me directly! Have a wonderful rest of November and a great start to December!